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Oil and lube capacities for '84 R100RS

Dave J

New member
Good evening all:

I've got an '84 R100 RS that I'm about to bring back to life. I don't have a Clymer manual or equivalent yet, but I'm changing fluids this week and I need to know capacities.

I plan on running Castol 10-40 Syntec in the sump and 75-90 synthetic lube in the transmission and final drive. Can any of you tell me how much oil goes in each?

Thanks for the help - I'm sure there are capacities listed elsewhere on the site, but I just can't locate them.

Cheers,
Dave Jorgensen
Canada
 
I have an '83 R100 which is the same.Engine with out oil cooler is 2.50 lt. 2.64 qt.Gear box 800cc .85 Us qts.consescus says don't use synthic. Castrol 20w50 4T has the additives that are recomended (zddp) The final wants SAE 80w90 Dino,350cc,Drive shaft 150cc 80w90. All from Haynes manual.Can't see why you don't have these esential manuals,I have the Haynes and the Claymers and everything else I can find.Oh,I see now you're Canadian.Well here's your free info.
 
Goody, the chance for an oil thread!

Most would say stay away from using synthetics on an airhead, particularly one that has been out of commission for some time. Airhead oils seals were designed for use with dino-oil an are known to have a propensity to weep, even gush, synthetic at the best of times, let alone when seals may have dried more than normal on a bike that has been standing.

My advice. Use dino and be prepared to change oils once or twice really soon after the initial resurection.
 
Airhead oils seals were designed for use with dino-oil an are known to have a propensity to weep, even gush, synthetic at the best of times, let alone when seals may have dried more than normal on a bike that has been standing.

My take is this is a bit of a misrepresenation. I attended the Spectro Oils discussion twice of the past 3-4 rallys and this issue has come up. The issue was really with the synthetic oil, not the seal itself. The oil didn't have the proper seal swelling agents in them to deal with these old seals. Without that, synth will leak. In general, this has become a none issue with the latest round of oils. If it does leak, it might be more of a problem with a completely dried out seal.
 
My take is this is a bit of a misrepresenation. I attended the Spectro Oils discussion twice of the past 3-4 rallys and this issue has come up. The issue was really with the synthetic oil, not the seal itself. The oil didn't have the proper seal swelling agents in them to deal with these old seals. Without that, synth will leak. In general, this has become a none issue with the latest round of oils. If it does leak, it might be more of a problem with a completely dried out seal.

Happy to stand corrected on the details.

On the practical matter of bringing a bike back to like, I believe that there are significant benefits to changing all oils after very brief running periods during the resurrection period. Makes sense to do this with dino oil. It is less expensive and there is no difference in the "cleaning" power of a syntethic over a dino oil in the short run. Once "clean", run the "final" oil of choice.
 
Literacy

First, Welcome.

+1 on buying/reading Clymers and Haynes - buying them both, new, costs less than ONE HOUR of labor-time. Each has something to offer, and each contain some errors, so THIS forum can help a lot for filling-in the blanks.

Owning and riding an Airhead is surely one of life's greatest pleasures, and it can also get expensive when you don't do your own maintenance, so you're off to a good start.

There are ways to seriously screw-up something as simple as an oil/filter change, and that, in turn, will seriously screw up an Airhead engine. Check Snowbum's site, and prepare to read, read, read or be prepared to cry, cry, cry.

Regards,

Walking Eagle
 
You can surely still get an owners manual for this bike from a BMW dealer.

If not, Motobins is a pretty likely source.
 
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