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Just picked up a lighty used 2000 R1100RT

pmorritt

New member
been a few years since my last beemer. Just picked up a pristine 2000 R110RT with 50k on the clock. prev owner nicely did all fluid changes and brake pads prior to selling her to me. Only had her out a few times and all sounds and feels gool, just like an old friend that i had back in the ‘90’s. Without trial and error this is the small issue. Maneuvering the big girl in the proper place in the garage, i hit full right lock a few times. when ths occurs the throttle cable gets pushed up and increases input. Obviously rpms go up, but since im covering the throttle not a problem, just slightly annoying. Is this common and whats the best solution. Oh, the previous owner had a bmw tank bag, and on the most forward, both sides of the plastic he has little hooks attached where the tank bag attached in front. As my primary residence is up north I won’t be able to remove those hooks till i get home up north and access to my tools. suggestions.....
 
Congrats on your purchase.
Does the bike have bar risers on it? That may be the issue.

On another note: Does the bike have the original rubber brake lines on it?
If so, they need to be replaced asap.
That vintage are deteriorating on the inside (causing ABS problems) or ballooning on hard braking resulting in total loss of braking on the associated circiut.
Replace with Stainless Steel Teflon lines. I like Spiegler lines - they fit first time every time.
https://spieglerusa.com/catalog/category/view/id/36
 
As a fellow year 2000 R1100RT rider - congratulations! You've latched onto a a fine, if somewhat eccentric, touring bike. (Then again, some might argue that all BMWs are eccentric). Considering the model debuted in 1993, it is still a ride which can hold its own on the highway and won't overly embarrass you in the twisties.

About the unintended acceleration issue - is the throttle cable in need of a bit more slack? You should find a barrel type cable adjuster hiding under the sleeve on the handlebar end of cable. You might also check the cable for the cold start lever on the left of the bar - I recall over adjusting mine once, which caused the same sort of problem.

Enjoy the bike. I hear there are 1100s out there with 300k on the clock. I've logged over 100k on mine. The bike has only stranded me once (so far) when the HES cable finally shorted out in the rain 500 miles from home. Consider replacing the HES unit if yours is original - or at least inspecting the cable. Evidently the insulating material used for the early HES cables was inadequate for the engine heat it is exposed to, leading to deterioration and failure. Mine failed at around 80k.

Enjoy your 'vintage' oilhead!
 
One thing to be aware of: The side cases *can* be mounted without all three connections made correctly...if the (lower) front slot doesn't capture the tab on the frame it can appear solid but you will probably lose the case at speed. Take a few minutes to purposely do it wrong a couple of times so you know what to check for. This hasn't bit me personally, but only because the PO pointed it out to me.
 
My 1100 also came with the small hooks for a tank bag. I actually have the bag for it, stored away. I don't notice the hooks. You may want to just leave them on in case you get a bag for it someday. With the plastic tank/covering, magnetic bags won't work. Alienhitchhiker offers good advice on the HES sender. If it hasn't been re-done or repaired, at this point it's probably in poor shape, which can lead to the bike stopping somewhere. GSAddict re-built mine and did an excellent job for a very reasonable price. It's not a difficult job to get it off and back on. When I took mine off, I was surprised how bad the wires had become.
 
HES wiring question: took all the tupperware off my R1100RSL, washed it thoroughly using lots of water, started it, continued spraying water at the engine, it never missed a beat, would that be an indication the wiring is still OK? Thoughts?
DP
 
HES wiring question: .... washed it thoroughly using lots of water, started it, continued spraying water at the engine, it never missed a beat, would that be an indication the wiring is still OK? Thoughts?
DP

There’s a bomb wired inside your bike. You “kicked” the bike and the bomb didn’t go off. Do you really want to continue kicking the bomb until it goes off? Or do you want to remove the bomb and ride without worrying about it? Your choice.
 
HES wiring question: took all the tupperware off my R1100RSL, washed it thoroughly using lots of water, started it, continued spraying water at the engine, it never missed a beat, would that be an indication the wiring is still OK? Thoughts?
DP

Denny,

If that is the original HES it is a virtual certainty that the insulation on the individual wires in the HES wiring bundle has deteriorated. It will be cracked and some wires will be bare for short distances. The outer sheath at the connector at the top of that bundle is the typical entry point for moisture. When a drop or two get to a place where two bare wires are side-by-side you will get weird symptoms, missing and maybe simply it won't run for several days until it dries out.

If that were my bike (or Voni's as the case was) I would have that HES rewired by GSAddict as soon as possible so as to not ruin good riding weather later in the year.
 
HES wiring question: took all the tupperware off my R1100RSL, washed it thoroughly using lots of water, started it, continued spraying water at the engine, it never missed a beat, would that be an indication the wiring is still OK? Thoughts?
DP

My thoughts are at 50K if the wiring is original and most likely it is you should have it rewired _before_ it leaves you stranded. They all look find from the outside but the damage occurs under the heat shrink. Mine failed at around 40K during a rainstorm in the mountains above Hope B.C. I manged to limp into Hope with about a dozen engine cut outs and subsequent restarts but then it failed completely as I tried to leave Hope a couple hours later and I had to have it towed to Vancouver so I could repair it. Not fun especially in the rain. When I took the HES out and examined the wiring it this is what I found _under_ the sheathing...
P1010517.jpg

Get a hold of GSAddict via a PM here and have him rewire it before it fails. And it is going to fail..
 
There’s a bomb wired inside your bike. You “kicked” the bike and the bomb didn’t go off. Do you really want to continue kicking the bomb until it goes off? Or do you want to remove the bomb and ride without worrying about it? Your choice.

Well put. :laugh
 
I too have a recently purchased 2000 R1100Rt and have heard about the problems with the wiring breaking down. Which wiring harness is the HES? I haven't been able to find it listed as such on the schematics.
 
Reto:

What sort of wire do you use on your HES refits? I recall one guy that was using aviation stuff.

Aircraft grade Shielded Hi Temperature Teflon Insulation good for the lifetime of the bike.
(what should have been used in the first place)
 
I have a 2003 R1150R and have purchased a HES rewired by GS and it is a brilliant piece of work. If you have an original HES do, I repeat, do have it rewired by GS.
 
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