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Exhaust Removal

brittrunyon

'92 R100GS
Greetings from New Mexico

I had a real bi#%h of a time removing the exhaust from my 92 r 100 gs, the exhausts nuts were easy because I know to use anti-seize on them, but the remaining connections were seriously stuck. So my question, is it OK to use anti-seize on the "new" sleeves when this all goes back together?

Plus it appears that it's going to be a 3 handed job to get it all lined up and reassembled when the time comes. Any hints?

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brittrunyon/16202625267" title="Exhaust_6367 by Britt Runyon Photography, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7421/16202625267_c8c0f89c97_b.jpg" width="1024" height="802" alt="Exhaust_6367"></a>
 
I am using a thin film of anti-seize since I installed the aluminum type sleeves many years ago. Before I re-install I use 320 grid sand paper to remove the old anti-seize. The three pieces now slide together easily - maybe with a little knock of a soft hammer.

On reverse I need a few wiggles to remove the header pipes.

Might help to trial assemble the collector and the two headers on the floor - widening/sanding the connection points until all slides together easily. THEN mount it on the bike.

Curious...

Your crossover clamp - what is the silver part sticking out? My clamp just slides over the cross pipe of the headers with no extra part.

Also what are the black upright pieces that look like chimneys? I don't have these on mine (an '89).

Ditto for the two clamps in the top right corner of the picture.

/Guenther
 
Curious...

Your crossover clamp - what is the silver part sticking out? My clamp just slides over the cross pipe of the headers with no extra part.

Also what are the black upright pieces that look like chimneys? I don't have these on mine (an '89).

Ditto for the two clamps in the top right corner of the picture.

/Guenther

the "silver part sticking out" is item # 10.......a sleeve inside the crossover clamp.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brittrunyon/16206144959" title="Exhaust_0490 by Britt Runyon Photography, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7421/16206144959_cb5f5995b4_o.png" width="510" height="360" alt="Exhaust_0490"></a>

"the black upright pieces that look like chimneys" are items # 10 (the cross over sleeve) on the left, & # 7 (on the right)..........they came out mangled & messy.

The "two clamps" have nothing to do with the exhaust, they hold the lower "bra" on.......

I'll be using Copper Anti-Seize when reassembling it all this weekend.

Thanks for your suggestion of doing a "dry run" assembly first, that will definitely help.
 
Greetings from New Mexico

I had a real bi#%h of a time removing the exhaust from my 92 r 100 gs, the exhausts nuts were easy because I know to use anti-seize on them, but the remaining connections were seriously stuck. So my question, is it OK to use anti-seize on the "new" sleeves when this all goes back together?

Plus it appears that it's going to be a 3 handed job to get it all lined up and reassembled when the time comes. Any hints?

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brittrunyon/16202625267" title="Exhaust_6367 by Britt Runyon Photography, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7421/16202625267_c8c0f89c97_b.jpg" width="1024" height="802" alt="Exhaust_6367"></a>

I use a nickel/ aluminum antisieze on nuts and connection of exhaust joints, a thin coat.. My suggestion would be to clean up joints, replace gaskets if they have begun to degrade and assemble one piece at a time on the bike. Get it all in position, then tighten everything up. If you don't have a lift, I didn't the first time I removed, it makes it a little tough laying on the garage floor , but it goes together easy.
If you want to change engine fluid now's a good time, having pipe off makes it nice.
 
I just took my exhaust system apart on my 95 R100GS (it is comprised of 3 generations of parts: OEM headers, new SS Keihan y pipe to replace collector, and old aftermarket BUB muffler with bad paint job...having it ceramic coated for cosmetic purposes and to reduce the external heat on my rear fender, heel, etc....will share the results when it is done.).

I agree with everything folks have said here. I would add that when reassembling, leave all the connections loose until everything is in place, then tighten down. Three-four hands are helpful, but I have never had extras. Last time I removed mine, I made the mistake of starting at the front and tightening as I worked back in the system.. and had to go back and loosen it all up to allow for lots of wiggling, etc. I do not have the sleeve gasket on my cross pipe clamp...tight enough already, and have not observed leakage. I use a piece of firewood to do the tapping on the headers to re-seat them.

I have not found copper-based anti-seize at my local auto store...where do you find it?
 
NAPA..................
Gentlemen,
Thanks for all your input.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/user/brittrunyon/media/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/Antiseize_6412_zps38434243.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/Antiseize_6412_zps38434243.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Antiseize_6412_zps38434243.jpg"/></a>
 
ORRRRrrrr.... you for all you earlier airheads you could do what i just did this winter... cut the damn crossovers off and weld 'em shut. want to get to the oil filter? just swing the pipe up without hindrance!

it resulted in a nicer distinct 'pop' to the exhaust note without the 2 crossovers and i noticed no performance difference. YMMV.

-dan
 
Doing a "dry run" was key.
Thought it looked like an alien creature. :laugh
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brittrunyon/16230612150" title="Exhaust_6421 by Britt Runyon Photography, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8681/16230612150_4f54452812_b.jpg" width="787" height="1024" alt="Exhaust_6421"></a>

Thanks for the help.
 
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