Ei Driveshaft Experience?

[160860]

Hey Motorrad experts. Looking for anyone with experience using the Ei replacement driveshafts from Ted Porters Beemer Shop. Specifically, replacing the driveshaft on my 2011 R1200GSA with 114,000. The replacement seems to be ~2mm or 1/16" longer than the stock shaft. The local BMW dealer says not to use the Ei shaft because it is causing "notching" when rotating with the shaft but there is no notching in the final drive without the shaft. . I should also note that this is the second Ei driveshaft the dealer has said the same thing on. The Beemer Shop replaced the first one and now the dealer is claiming the same behavior is being experienced with the second.

As I'm getting ready for a 18K mile trip to AK this summer I'd like to avoid finding out there were issues with the Ei driveshaft in the middle of the Northern Territory.

Anyone have any similar experiences, suggestions or recommendations?

Thanks

 

[drneo66]

I haven't had any problems with my Ei driveshaft for the past 30k miles on my '07 RT. I'm surprised that 2mm would make that big of a difference, as I thought there was at least that much play in the system. So the notching noise would be coming from the face of the driveshaft rubbing on the either the transmission or the final drive face? Or is there so much length that it's causing the final drive knuckle to hit the housing due to the higher angle? Or do we think that the bearing/gears are being affected due to the extra length creating additional loading forces?

 

[160860]

I haven't had any problems with my Ei driveshaft for the past 30k miles on my '07 RT. I'm surprised that 2mm would make that big of a difference, as I thought there was at least that much play in the system. So the notching noise would be coming from the face of the driveshaft rubbing on the either the transmission or the final drive face? Or is there so much length that it's causing the final drive knuckle to hit the housing due to the higher angle? Or do we think that the bearing/gears are being affected due to the extra length creating additional loading forces?

Outstanding, all great questions and still be be determined. More to follow. Thanks!

 

[ragtoplvr]

If the u joints are assembled out of phase it can feel like notching. They way this one is made I think it would be very easy to shorten at the dampers 1/16 inch. I would use some dykem or something like that to determine if bottoming.

Otherwise new joints have some stiffness.

Rod

 

[lkraus]

Unless the pinion splines are so buried in the U-joint that they are bottoming, the tiny bit of extra length is not causing this "notching". The shaft should still have room to slide back and forth a little bit.

I don't think it is possible to install the joints out of phase, but I've never seen the Ei shaft in person.

Is this "notching" happening with the weight of the bike on the wheels, or just on the centerstand with the suspension fully extended?

 

[drneo66]

I don't think it is possible to install the joints out of phase, but I've never seen the Ei shaft in person.

Agreed - I don't think it could be out of phase and not look super odd?

And it seems that it would also be unlikely that Ted didn't notice anything when he received the other one back (assuming they looked at it before sending out the new one).

 

[160860]

Unless the pinion splines are so buried in the U-joint that they are bottoming, the tiny bit of extra length is not causing this "notching". The shaft should still have room to slide back and forth a little bit.

I don't think it is possible to install the joints out of phase, but I've never seen the Ei shaft in person.

Is this "notching" happening with the weight of the bike on the wheels, or just on the centerstand with the suspension fully extended?

I think you're on to something. This "notching" only occurred when on the center stand. I was able to talk to Ted and he did mention that the GSA has been know to have some instances where a knuckle will have minor rubbing inside the swingarm when the bike is on the center stand because of the extended articulation.

 

[160860]

Hey Motorrad experts. Looking for anyone with experience using the Ei replacement driveshafts from Ted Porters Beemer Shop. Specifically, replacing the driveshaft on my 2011 R1200GSA with 114,000. The replacement seems to be ~2mm or 1/16" longer than the stock shaft. The local BMW dealer says not to use the Ei shaft because it is causing "notching" when rotating with the shaft but there is no notching in the final drive without the shaft. . I should also note that this is the second Ei driveshaft the dealer has said the same thing on. The Beemer Shop replaced the first one and now the dealer is claiming the same behavior is being experienced with the second.

As I'm getting ready for a 18K mile trip to AK this summer I'd like to avoid finding out there were issues with the Ei driveshaft in the middle of the Northern Territory.

Anyone have any similar experiences, suggestions or recommendations?

Thanks

Thanks to everyone for your fast and insightful input. Waiting for the dealer to work me back into the queue so I can get the bike home and finish this out myself. All started because I wanted a second opinion on my final drive before the trip. Original FD and seal with 114K so I wanted to be proactive and make sure I wasn't missing anything. I'll provide an update once its back and I complete the swap myself. Thanks again!

 

[ragtoplvr]

Agreed - I don't think it could be out of phase and not look super odd?

And it seems that it would also be unlikely that Ted didn't notice anything when he received the other one back (assuming they looked at it before sending out the new one).

My lifetime of experience in industry tells me if it can be assembled wrong it will, and if it can not, it will anyway.

That said, when my driveshaft wears out, I want one of these.

Rod

 

[petergsa]

Hi; I replaced my factory driveshaft at around 100,000 km and now have approx. 240,000 km on my 2006 gsa , have been doing frequent servicing, ie rear drive oil change as well greasing u joints absolutely no wear noted on the u joints.
Thanks Ted Porter for a serviceable drive shaft.
peter

 

[Omega Man]

I’ve never been into a BMW shaft drive but have been working with various driveshaft/driveline configurations for years
In a fair comparison, any driveline “notching” should be referenced against a brand new OEM shaft and this replacement item, under the same circumstances……in this case, on the center stand. Drivelines are configured with maximum angles accounted for and exceeding the angles can make the joints “bump” past design angles.
This replacement shaft from The Beemer Shop looks well thought out but still has design angles designed in.
Perhaps the dealer can put the bike with the suspect shaft on a lift, with the center stand deployed and “bind” the now sagging suspension into the correct ride angle and see if the resistance disappears?
OM