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Big Bend & Davis Mountains | West Texas

texanrt

New member
I was invited to join a couple of guys for a weekend run from Houston to west Texas in April and I'm just getting this posted -- better late than never, I guess. It's a special place and one we're going to visit again soon.

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We arranged to meet in west Houston and were on the road to Austin before the sun was up. I knew the weather was going to be rough on our first day -- severe weather was forecast in our path as a cold front moved through Texas -- I figured we'd meet it around Austin. An easy rain turned to a drenching downpour from Austin to Llano -- but west of Llano the sky was clearing and we'd have blue skies for the next four days.

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Texas is tapping wind energy in a big way and wind farms are popping up across the vast open spaces of west Texas. We passed this one somewhere west of San Angelo.

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It's a place where the roads run straight to the horizon.....

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We took the scenic route through Pecos before arriving in Ft. Stockton for the evening -- David added Loving County, Texas to his list of visited Texas counties before we stopped to dine at Alfredos :thumb -- we covered about 700 miles on day 1.

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Day 2 started with us heading south out of Fort Stockton on 385 -- the pictures don't do justice to the expansive vistas we enjoyed on this trip -- here the road goes on for miles before turning.

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An interested factoid relating to these next photos -- early electricity and phone lines were strung along roadside fence posts -- here along 385 you could see lots of old wires. On the right side were the two-strand electrical wires. On the left side were the single-strand phone lines -- positive only -- the phones were grounded at the residence and when there was interference somebody would pour water on the ground where the phone was "grounded" to clear up the signal. As I recall David said this was described in a book he read about the west Texas Pulte family.

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More west Texas wide-open spaces -- somewhere along 385 I think...

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We arrived in Marathon and stopped in front of the historic Gage hotel -- we'd stay in Marathon on Sunday, but at the Marathon Motel -- their cabins are much more to my liking. The Gage Hotel was completed in 1927 and restored by its new owners in 1978. Its premium accommodations include a fine restaurant.

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Somewhere along old highway 90....

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We arrived in Ft. Davis around noon after traveling old highway 90 from Marathon and through Alpine. Dined at the Old Texas Inn.

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After lunch we traveled north to Calera, Texas -- the location of Mission Mary -- the La Calera Chapel. The mission was established around 1902 and was later abandoned before its restoration in 2003 by the Calera Foundation. Here's a link to some photos of the restoration: Mission Mary Restoration -- caleratexas.org It sits alone -- the last remaining vestiges of the original settlement. This beautiful little chapel was open to visitors.

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The Old Rugged Cross -- we stepped inside to see a small altar and a copy of the Bible. As soon as I saw the book opened, I knew it was turned to John's gospel -- John 3:16 "For God so loved....." I hope you'll indulge me this one opportunity to say it takes a special people to settle and live in a place like this -- it could not have been easy. And like so many places we've visited we're struck by the fact that among the earliest of settlements -- no matter how difficult the circumstances -- they built a church.

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Ft. Davis was established (1854 - 1891) as an outpost for the protection of the San Antonio - El Paso road and the Chihuahua Trail. According to the Ft. Davis website there were no walls or palisades protecting the fort -- in fact, few western forts had walls or palisades according to the website despite how our Hollywood westerns portray them. The fort is set back against these rocky hills forming a formidable barrier.

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The fort's hospital is undergoing renovations and will be the only restored hospital in the US from this time period.

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The renovated officer's quarters....

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Next is our visit to the MacDonald Observatory -- to be continued......
 
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Howdy Neighbor, I am from The Woodlands.

A most excellent start, I am enjoying that you are taking time to tell the history along with your photos. I have made the trip to Big Bend several times, but to be honest I have never noticed the power and telephone lines on the fence posts. :banghead

Looking forward to your next installment. :lurk
 
The MacDonald Observatory was a great stop -- we arrived at the visitor's center in the afternoon and went to the top of the road -- the highest paved point in Texas where we snapped some photos. We returned that evening to attend a "Star Party" after sundown.

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The highest paved road in Texas.....elevation 6,791'

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Overlooking the road to Ft. Davis.....

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This is the Harlan-Smith telescope -- its mirror has a diameter of 12.5' and weighs 7,800 lbs. measuring 12.5" (inches) at its thickest point.

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We returned that evening for the "Star Party" and took another ride to see the observatory up close.... This is the world's 4th largest optical telescope with a mirror measuring 9.8 meters.

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The stars are almost out -- but not yet. We enjoyed a great outdoor presentation by some knowledgeable experts on the constellations. There were several amateur astronomers who set up their telescopes for us to have a closer look at the stars. It was so clear and dark that night you could track satellites as they traversed the night sky. If you make reservations, you can get in to see the stars on the big telescopes.

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That was day 2 -- we covered almost 300 miles with all stops, meals, and tours. We stayed at the Ft. Davis Motel on the edge of town.

Day 3 started early with us heading down through Marfa to breakfast in Presidio. Another great Texas ride down towards the Rio Grande.

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Down past Elephant Rock....

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Along the River Road between Presidio and Lajitas we stopped along the Rio Grande. There were stretches along that road when it seemed like we were the only people there -- traffic was light and we passed fewer than a dozen bikes that morning.

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The sight of the old Contrabando movie set a few miles west of Lajitas. Several movies -- including "Lone Star" (Kris Kristofferson, Chris Cooper, Matthew McConaughey) -- were filmed here.

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After a gas stop in Terlingua we made it to the park entrance.

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Here's a view of "The Window" or "The Notch" that reveals the Chisos Basin beyond.

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On the way to the Chisos Basin....

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The Chisos Basin road climbs up to an elevation of 5,400'

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Another great view of the road as it climbs up to the basin....

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A look back down the Chisos Basin road -- the area is like its own eco-system -- everything's much greener compared to the surrounding park outside of the basin area.

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Here's a view of "The Window" or "The Notch" from the Chisos Basin near the visitor center and lodge. I've added a stay at the lodge as a "must do" item when we return for our next visit. We were due in Marathon for the evening so we wouldn't see the sun set -- but I bet it's a great sight.

Edit: I googled for some Chisos basin sunset photos and here's one I found where you can clearly see "The Window" or "The Notch": http://www.summitpost.org/image/180899/Sunset-at-the-Chisos-Basin-Window.html


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Another view inside the Chisos Basin....

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The road to Marathon was long and quiet ride with very little traffic -- a great ending to another great day -- we covered about 300 miles on this day, too. Tomorrow's ride home from Marathon to Houston would be via the southern route along old highway 90 through Del Rio and San Antonio where we caught the super-slab back to (our) reality.

We stayed at the Marathon Motel and the cabins were just right -- nicely appointed without a lot of fuss. There's even an outdoor fireplace for guests on those cool evenings. The motel provides earplugs because just across old highway 90 is the train track -- several passed that evening blowing their whistles -- but I wasn't bothered. We ate dinner at some new place called "The Burro" and it was just right for the end of a long day's ride. I love these small west Texas towns -- everybody seems so happy to be there.

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Howdy Neighbor, I am from The Woodlands.

A most excellent start, I am enjoying that you are taking time to tell the history along with your photos. I have made the trip to Big Bend several times, but to be honest I have never noticed the power and telephone lines on the fence posts. :banghead

Looking forward to your next installment. :lurk

I'm glad you enjoyed it -- putting the report together gave me a great chance to revisit a great weekend -- and it certainly helps imprint the memory. The information about the electric and phone lines (along 385) came from my riding buddy -- and tour guide -- who'd read about it in a history book of the west Texas Pulte family -- not sure if it's the same Pulte family that Houstonians would know.
 
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love the picture overlay on the map...always wanted to try to do that ,just waiting on that rainy day that never comes.
Great report...lot's of familiar sites & sights

Love the Marathon Motel...stayed there several times. And the parking at the old observatory is tricky at times witht the slope of the parking area:whistle
 
I have to laugh. I just stayed at cabin 7 this time at the Marathon last week. New grandbaby, so I wasnt able to go on two wheels..
But I did get pulled over for speeding.. Man oh man are they bad...
My son got me out of this one..Yayyyyy
He OWES me that anyway..

I got pulled over at ELephant rock.....

Great pics, take care.. Maybe I will hook up when I am off work... WHich is where I am now.. Corpus...
dangit...
 
Thanks for sharing your memories and pictures. My favorite part of God's country!

Voni
sMiling
 
love the picture overlay on the map...always wanted to try to do that ,just waiting on that rainy day that never comes.
Great report...lot's of familiar sites & sights

Love the Marathon Motel...stayed there several times. And the parking at the old observatory is tricky at times witht the slope of the parking area:whistle

That parking lot is tricky -- as is the overlook at the Colorado Canyon (?) :whistle where the steepest grades occur on the river road. Glad you enjoyed it.
 
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I have to laugh. I just stayed at cabin 7 this time at the Marathon last week. New grandbaby, so I wasnt able to go on two wheels..
But I did get pulled over for speeding.. Man oh man are they bad...
My son got me out of this one..Yayyyyy
He OWES me that anyway..

I got pulled over at ELephant rock.....

Great pics, take care.. Maybe I will hook up when I am off work... WHich is where I am now.. Corpus...
dangit...

Marathon was great -- sat out on the cabin porch watching the sun set. Nice and peaceful. Definitely staying there again.
 
Thanks for sharing your memories and pictures. My favorite part of God's country!

Voni
sMiling

You're welcome. I've read in several of your posts telling how you fell in love with the place -- and now I understand. :)
 
thanks for that...

my dad lives in the north houston burbs, has a spring address and a tomball phone number. champions forest, @ louetta, more or less. suffice it to say i am there a couple times a year at least.

i did a couple of late february seminars in midland, tx last year and this year. my *fantasy* was to ride a bike out, then do the south-texas border tour thru big bend and back to houston the long way...ultimately i wasn't able to justify the time.

your pix and story are almost as good as being there. i appreciate the details on local history, the places you stayed, etc. maybe one of these days i will get it together for that ride? til then, i can still dream of it.
i am sure the stars there at night are amazing, the mcdonald observatory sounds like a "must-do" to me.

be well, ride safely.
 
your pix and story are almost as good as being there. i appreciate the details on local history, the places you stayed, etc. maybe one of these days i will get it together for that ride? til then, i can still dream of it.
i am sure the stars there at night are amazing, the mcdonald observatory sounds like a "must-do" to me. be well, ride safely.

Thanks for the comments. In one aspect I'm quite fortunate -- I'm getting to see lots of these places for the very first time -- and from a great perspective -- aboard a bike --- makes it that much more interesting and enjoyable.

I googled for some Chisos basin sunset photos and here's one I found where you can clearly see "The Window" or "The Notch":

http://www.summitpost.org/image/180899/Sunset-at-the-Chisos-Basin-Window.html
 
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love this report!

look for a story in the ON next month that talks about riding in the same part of the country... except not on the road.

thanks for posting!

ian
 
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