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Bearing Race Removal - Head Steady

b25bsaboy

New member
The frame for the 1976 R75/6 is ready for the next process of plastic bead blasting, some re-welding of cracked gussets and powder coating/painting?

I want to remove the bearing races in the head stead, but the angle is as such you canÔÇÖt get a brass drift from the opposite side to knock them out. Is there a simple way of doing this without making a mess?

The lower bearing is also stuck onto the shaft that goes up through the head steady that is the bottom bearing. It appears it has not seen any new grease since coming off the assembly line and it appears to be frozen in place. Any ideas to removing this from the shaft as well.

Up date:

I also just cleaned up my spelling errors. My apologies..
 

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IIRC, the upper race comes out pretty easily, but you will need a special tool to remove the lower race. I got mine here

http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=62

You can cut the bearing off with a dremel tool, if you do it carefully. Cut until you are almost through the bearing; it will then slide off with a little urging. O forget whether I had to do it on two sides or just one. If you freeze the stem and heat the new bearing, it will slide right on.
 
Plenty of advice from previous threads. Use the search feature...I like the advanced search, type in "steering stem bearing" and search only in the Airheads forum. I came up with several threads just this year that discusses methods (some destructive) to removing the bearing. Cold chisels, dremels, welding a bead... Have fun!
 
If these are the original steering head bearings, they are likely way overdue for replacement. Do you see a bunch of evenly-spaced, parallel lines in the bearing outer races? If yes, they should be replaced.

The lower bearing is normally removed destructively -- cut off the bearing cage, then cut the inner race with a dremel and cutting wheel without going through the race into the stem, and split the race with a hammer blow to a chisel in the cut.

For the outer races, if you can't get a drift behind the race, the common approaches are a puller (such as from www.cycleworks.net) or applying a couple weld spots on the surface of the race, and then removing the race after it cools and shrinks.

The replacement bearings are actually pretty cheap from the dealers (~$35 IIRC). And don't forget the sheet metal cover/grease retainer under the lower bearing -- it is usually damaged in the removal process.

BTW, this issue has been covered in spades -- search is your friend :D
 
I want ti remove the bearing races in the head stead, but the angle is as such you can'y get a brass drift from the opposite side to knock them out. Is there a simple way of doing this without making a mess?

Yes, crowbar.

n576805190_5368256_1842.jpg



The lower bearing is also stuck onto the shaft that goes up through the head steady that is the bottom bearing. It appears it has not seen any new grease since coming off the assembly line and it appears to be frozen in place. Any ideas to remving this from the shaft as well.

I had to take it off twice because I forgot the grease retainer. First time; pressed the tube out and the bearing popped off. Second time; tapped the tube out with a hammer/woodblock/etc.

n576805190_5368259_2904.jpg
 
the whole procedure of replacing the bearings can be done without investing the $80+ in the special tools if you have the right tools to begin with. Torch, soft hammers and punches/chisels, etc...

Did the same as Nathan illustrates for the top race, approached from the bottom.

The bottom bearing was cut off. Mind the cut and you can salvage the tin cup under the bearing.
 
75/6 bearing race removal

I am currently doing a thorough frame up resto on a 1975 75/6. Anyone doing such a restoration should contact/google Jeff Trapp at Northwoods Airheads.
He has created and is selling numerous specialty tools for airheads.

One of the many tools I purchased was a bearing race removal tool that worked perfectly as have all of his other tools. My cost at the time was only $44 and worth every penny. My only suggestions are that you read the instructions and use some Kroil to soak behind bearing race. Take these two suggestions and the job is easy.

You've got to check out his website as the tools are very good and necessary for a proper restoration. I'd be lost without them.

PT
 
i am currently doing a thorough frame up resto on a 1975 75/6. Anyone doing such a restoration should contact/google jeff trapp at northwoods airheads.
He has created and is selling numerous specialty tools for airheads.

One of the many tools i purchased was a bearing race removal tool that worked perfectly as have all of his other tools. My cost at the time was only $44 and worth every penny. My only suggestions are that you read the instructions and use some kroil to soak behind bearing race. Take these two suggestions and the job is easy.

You've got to check out his website as the tools are very good and necessary for a proper restoration. I'd be lost without them.

Pt

+1
 
Completely disagree. I bought one overpriced bolt from him.. never again.
Same here. I bought a tail rack from him for my LWB /6 and it turned out the rack was built for a SWB /5. Repeated fabrication required to make it work. Repeated because it's broken in use now twice.
 
Bearing race removal

Don't forget to remove the bearings from the swing arm before sending off to have powder coated. I forgot and now I ordered the removal tool from Northwoods.

Paul Tavilla
1975 R75/6
2000 1150 GS
2001 R1100S
 
Good Day!

First off, Seasons Greeting to all of you who read and contribute to the BMW MOA board specifically to the later model R series airheads.
Finally got the lower triple tree bearing race off the shaft. The small benzomatic didnÔÇÖt give off enough heat, thus the old stand by oxygen/acetylene did the trick. Came off straight away.
I appreciated the comments and suggestions all of you who commented.

The frame for the 1976 R75/6 is ready for the next process of plastic bead blasting, some re-welding of cracked gussets and powder coating/painting?

I want to remove the bearing races in the head stead, but the angle is as such you canÔÇÖt get a brass drift from the opposite side to knock them out. Is there a simple way of doing this without making a mess?

The lower bearing is also stuck onto the shaft that goes up through the head steady that is the bottom bearing. It appears it has not seen any new grease since coming off the assembly line and it appears to be frozen in place. Any ideas to removing this from the shaft as well.

Up date:

I also just cleaned up my spelling errors. My apologies..
 
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