pglaves
#13338
The bike in question is my G310GS but the issue is the battery which may apply to any bike so I am posting this in Motorrad. The short version is that I was riding along and the bike died dead with no obvious sign of electrons.
The longer version follows. Voni and I were taking a ride to and around Big Bend National Park which is about 30 miles from our house. In total it was a 136 mile ride. We were back within about 5 miles from the house, riding along at about 75 mph when the engine just quit. The dash display went blank and my GPS displayed that it had lost power. After I coasted as far as I could I stopped on the shoulder. Turning the key off and on made no difference whatsoever. Ugh!
Since I have on very rare occasions gone into a restaurant or other establishment for a while, having left my key on, I now often carry one of those little lithium-ion "jump start" power packs. I also have the simple plug-in harnesses for the device wired directly to the batteries of both of our G310s. Sometimes planning trumps luck: sometimes not.
I took the little power pack from my tank bag, and plugged the bike in to the power pack. Key on - lights and other things powered up. I started the bike. Then I unplugged the power pack and the bike went electron dead again. So I plugged it back in and again started the bike. Ignoring the instructions that came with the power pack I decided to leave it connected and ride the bike home. Lacking any good place to put the power pack I set it on the seat, got on sitting on it and rode the 5 miles home.
I tested the battery with a simple volt meter. It displayed just a bit over .7 volts (seven tenths of a volt). So I did some further trouble shooting. I keep an old, feeble Odyssey battery on my work bench to test bulbs, power a GPS, or some other light load applications. So I set it down beside the bike, connected jumper cables, and started the bike. With this battery connected with the cables the voltage with the bike running was 14.3 volts, indicating that the charging system was working just fine. But as soon as I disconnected a jumper cable the bike died instantly. The bike would/will not run off the alternator with a dead battery. In this case the battery was for all practical purposes an open circuit.
This is a classic case of a broken inter-cell or inter-plate connector inside the battery. When this happens it is possible to get very low voltage readings but the battery will produce or pass virtually no current. Sometimes a no-load voltage might seem normal but as soon as any load is applied the voltage goes very, very low. I have had this type failure happen a few times before. But in every one of those prior cases the break had happened when I pushed the starter button, not while I was riding down the road.
This is not a failure of the battery chemistry which usually gives a warning of lower voltage and sluggish starting. This was a physical failure of an apparently sound battery with the fracture of an inter-cell or inter-plate connector. These can happen totally without forewarning. The battery in question is a Duralast AZX9 AGM sealed battery that was purchased at an Autozone store in Taos, New Mexico in September, 2019. The bike has been ridden less than 5,000 miles since the battery was installed.
As they make motorcycle batteries smaller and lighter they try to pack more Amp-hours in smaller spaces. And this makes the batteries physically more fragile.
As a reminder: My K75 came OEM with a 30 AH battery. The smaller one which would also fit was a 19 AH battery. Voni's R1100RS and my R1150 came OEM with 18 AH batteries. Voni's F800S came with a 14 AH battery. And the G310GS bikes came with 8 AH batteries. Tiny and fragile. But I have had similar physical internal breakage on my R1150R, my F650 Funduro, and my F650 Dakar and at least one Airhead.
The longer version follows. Voni and I were taking a ride to and around Big Bend National Park which is about 30 miles from our house. In total it was a 136 mile ride. We were back within about 5 miles from the house, riding along at about 75 mph when the engine just quit. The dash display went blank and my GPS displayed that it had lost power. After I coasted as far as I could I stopped on the shoulder. Turning the key off and on made no difference whatsoever. Ugh!
Since I have on very rare occasions gone into a restaurant or other establishment for a while, having left my key on, I now often carry one of those little lithium-ion "jump start" power packs. I also have the simple plug-in harnesses for the device wired directly to the batteries of both of our G310s. Sometimes planning trumps luck: sometimes not.
I took the little power pack from my tank bag, and plugged the bike in to the power pack. Key on - lights and other things powered up. I started the bike. Then I unplugged the power pack and the bike went electron dead again. So I plugged it back in and again started the bike. Ignoring the instructions that came with the power pack I decided to leave it connected and ride the bike home. Lacking any good place to put the power pack I set it on the seat, got on sitting on it and rode the 5 miles home.
I tested the battery with a simple volt meter. It displayed just a bit over .7 volts (seven tenths of a volt). So I did some further trouble shooting. I keep an old, feeble Odyssey battery on my work bench to test bulbs, power a GPS, or some other light load applications. So I set it down beside the bike, connected jumper cables, and started the bike. With this battery connected with the cables the voltage with the bike running was 14.3 volts, indicating that the charging system was working just fine. But as soon as I disconnected a jumper cable the bike died instantly. The bike would/will not run off the alternator with a dead battery. In this case the battery was for all practical purposes an open circuit.
This is a classic case of a broken inter-cell or inter-plate connector inside the battery. When this happens it is possible to get very low voltage readings but the battery will produce or pass virtually no current. Sometimes a no-load voltage might seem normal but as soon as any load is applied the voltage goes very, very low. I have had this type failure happen a few times before. But in every one of those prior cases the break had happened when I pushed the starter button, not while I was riding down the road.
This is not a failure of the battery chemistry which usually gives a warning of lower voltage and sluggish starting. This was a physical failure of an apparently sound battery with the fracture of an inter-cell or inter-plate connector. These can happen totally without forewarning. The battery in question is a Duralast AZX9 AGM sealed battery that was purchased at an Autozone store in Taos, New Mexico in September, 2019. The bike has been ridden less than 5,000 miles since the battery was installed.
As they make motorcycle batteries smaller and lighter they try to pack more Amp-hours in smaller spaces. And this makes the batteries physically more fragile.
As a reminder: My K75 came OEM with a 30 AH battery. The smaller one which would also fit was a 19 AH battery. Voni's R1100RS and my R1150 came OEM with 18 AH batteries. Voni's F800S came with a 14 AH battery. And the G310GS bikes came with 8 AH batteries. Tiny and fragile. But I have had similar physical internal breakage on my R1150R, my F650 Funduro, and my F650 Dakar and at least one Airhead.
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