All those rubber parts!

[brewer]

I’ve owned my 1974 R90/6 since 1979.
One of the things that may sound trivial, but it’s actually a real pain in the neck is the lack of resistance that the various rubber boots have to UV, ozone or whatever else it is that degrades them so quickly. For things like the throttle control cable boot, the OEM ones that I’ve been buying end up cracking within a couple of years. Not only are they a significant expense if one tries to keep up with all the failures, but more importantly, fitting new ones is seriously time-consuming and ends up screwing up all one’s cable adjustments.
Not all the boots seem to be of similar quality/vulnerability. For instance, the boots that are on the rear turn signals do not seem to degrade the same rate at all.
What amazes me is that no one has stepped in, or even BMW for that matter, and started making these boots for airheads out of silicone rubber or something that is far more resistant to the elements.
I’ve looked everywhere, but am I missing out on something here?

 

[fmdualexhaust]

Are you treating rubber parts to any kind of conditioner?

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

I bet there is a reason silicone rubber is not common for thin wall boots and bellows. Strength & stiffness I'd guess . Silicon gaskets tend to extrude out unless mechanically trapped...
Apparent holds up well in thick wall shock bellows, but rare afaik in other apps.

I've been soaking all the black rubber parts for a day or few in Meguiars Natural Shine ( common in auto parts store) before install.

Put the parts in zip lock bag, pump in a couple spritzes & close up bag and work into all the nooks.
White liquid , sometimes seems to disappear or at least diminish (depends on how much I over-do the dose), as if the rubber is soaking some up.
Water rinse the extra juice away. Not greasy , no silicone to ruin next paint.

The parts do come out much softer but not degraded, not detectably swollen ( I left some parts in for a few weeks to see, without apparent ill effect.)

Seemed to put new life into a pair of fork bellows.
This chem brags about uV blocking , like a lot of similars do . uV is a killer, probably be trying to re apply every so often

Cant vouch for the on-bike results yet, but used this stuff / like this long while on soft foam convertible seals & window lips ( harder compound) & dashes/doors with apparent good results.

Ragtop circles also tout Krytox (non-moly version is a grease type for difficult service bearings ect, white paste , oil suspended in extremely fine particle teflon paste carrier, disappears when rubbed out thin).
Krytox is primarily a durable lubricant, but quiets squeaks expanded / foam rubber seals on cars without feeling sticky, but supposedly has rubber preserver action too.

 

[brewer]

Are you treating rubber parts to any kind of conditioner?

No, I am not at least not on a regular basis. I do have Armour All on hand and I’m sure there are better products out there. As somebody with an engineering background I just cannot believe that the best material is being used. Also, the motorcycle is not parked, or left outside for days on end.

 

[brewer]

I bet there is a reason silicone rubber is not common for thin wall boots and bellows. Strength & stiffness I'd guess . Silicon gaskets tend to extrude out unless mechanically trapped...
Apparent holds up well in thick wall shock bellows, but rare afaik in other apps.

I've been soaking all the black rubber parts for a day or few in Meguiars Natural Shine ( common in auto parts store) before install.
.

Thanks for all the interesting information. It does seem hard to believe that one should have to go through so much trouble to prevent vehicle parts from deteriorating so quickly. If that’s what has to be done, though, I better start preparing for it.

 

[brewer]

I should have added… Do all motorcycles, including modern BMWs, suffer from the same problem?

 

[brewer]

For instance, a quick online search shows these black silicone boots, made for EVs, that are priced at $2.50 each. This is actually cheaper than many of the BMW natural rubber parts that won’t stand up.
So similar products are out there at a reasonable price.

 

[20774]

Can't say as I've had to replace any rubber parts unless I'm in the middle of an overhaul, such as the fork boots or transmission output.

 

[Omega Man]

This is a product that is in turn recommended for use where necessary by other manufacturers-

I'm a user of 303 products on all things that are exposed to the sun, salt and seals..... even on the boots on the CV joints on the ATV.

https://www.303products.com.au/product-range/automotive/303-automotive-protectant-30382

OM

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

silicone boots, made for EVs,

BINGO exception noted. Prolly not unique. but little birdie tells me a natural rubber , typically loaded with carbon black
(makes the rubber content go further, for cost savings. Carbon black ; aka common electrical Resistor which is a while nuther oxymoron , given their task ... )
is not a top choice according to an electrical insulator's lawyers even in low voltage apps.
I was thinking more along the lines of flex boots, grommets and control cable shrouds.
some of which Im sure are made of one the scads of significantly different "silicones" which exist side by side of the many dozen of various rubber compositions existing.

I have a sling shot with medical grade "silicone" tubing which fried to brittle dried mud flat appearance after leaving out back a few months. In the sun. Soaking up the rays.
Little birdie should have felt lucky that the sling shot was no longer slinging, just shot,

Wonder how a boot/ bellows flexible-type silicon holds up in oil contact. Maybe not great. But then I'm not really an Organic Engineer (more like a Orgasmic Sr. Technician)
I 2nd the emotions that I haven't noticed an unexplained plague of decayed rubber, and that uV blocking creams exist , at least I zinc so...

 

[kbasa]

No, I am not at least not on a regular basis. I do have Armour All on hand and I’m sure there are better products out there. As somebody with an engineering background I just cannot believe that the best material is being used. Also, the motorcycle is not parked, or left outside for days on end.

UV and ozone destroy rubber. So does heat. As rubber ages, it loses its flexibility.

My neighbor just bought a 40 year old Alfa Romeo and told me it was in "excellent condition" with "low miles". Except that every bit of rubber in it is also 40 years old.

He's had it in twice for leaks and I assured him that until he's replaced the clutch cylinder bits, brakes, gaskets and the like, it's going to continue to leak. He doesn't know diddly about mechanical stuff, so he's either gotta move it along or come to terms with the fact that it's going to leave a mess in his garage until he gets all that stuff swapped.

I just pointed at the seals on his windows. "Look at this. Now imagine this is trying to hold back warm oil."

If you have rubber that's exposed to the elements, protecting them is a good idea. Check someone like Griot's Garage and get some dedicated rubber treatment stuff, not just basic Armor All, which is, IMHO, primarily an appearance thing.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

with an engineering background I just cannot believe that the best material is being used.

If that were TRUE, wouldn't we be discussing this over a
wholesome Beyond Burger & satisfying lite beer,
Mister BREWER ?

Mind you, that is coming from a guy who's working Philosophy is

try Try TRY AGAIN!
and if it seems all Hope is lost,
At least try to RTFM


The Olde Ways are old
because they have endured.

 

[kinterridge]

I've found IMAR products, the 501 cleaner followed by the 502 treatment are superior to others for protection. They are designed for Marine applications so they are designed for harsh conditions. You have to hunt for it but it is available at Marine/boat supply houses. They do have a web site as well to look for locations.

 

[brewer]

If that were TRUE, wouldn't we be discussing this over a
wholesome Beyond Burger & satisfying lite beer,
Mister BREWER ?.

Not sure I completely understand you there. I am a professional brewer though, so I do make sure I use the best materials I can get my hands on!

 

[brewer]

I've found IMAR products, the 501 cleaner followed by the 502 treatment are superior to others for protection. They are designed for Marine applications so they are designed for harsh conditions. You have to hunt for it but it is available at Marine/boat supply houses. They do have a web site as well to look for locations.

Thanks very much for this info. I will look.

 

[brewer]

Thanks

 

[brewer]

Can't say as I've had to replace any rubber parts unless I'm in the middle of an overhaul, such as the fork boots or transmission output.

it may be that my sense of time is the culprit here. My fork boots seem to last really well, and I must say that looking over the rest of the machine there are some other rubber parts that are in terrible shape, just falling apart, and others that are pretty good… The worst are the little boots that cover the clutch interlock and front brake switches. Luckily, they are dead easy to replace.
I could swear that they were all replaced at the same time however, that may not be the case. As you will appreciate when you own the same motorcycle for decades, one’s sense of time can get really screwed up and it may be that my good rubber parts have lasted two or more years and the ones that are falling apart may not have been replaced for a lot longer than that. I have not yet got to the stage where I record the date when I replace rubber boots and I hope I don’t (that will be a sign of excessive organization!).

 

[stevenrankin]

I am happy but

I am happy that over the 38 years of owning my RT, BMW has been kind enough or at least someone has been kind enough to keep these rubber bits available to replace and I am able to replace them.

I wish I could say the same about bits of me that are getting old and broke, LOL. St.