My 98 K12Rs has 55,575 miles. I was 8 miles from home when I tried to down shift and found the trans was stuck in 5th gear. Only had I intersection so I got home ok. Shut bike and checked shifter, it seemed to have excessive play but as I had never checked it b4, who van say? Still stuck in 5th. Can anybody give me best and worst case cost guesses? I had just programed calendar with the rides I wanted to attend for the next 2 months....must be karma right? TIA, John (Rileous)
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'98 K12RS stuck in 5th gear
- Thread starter rileous
- Start date
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- Tags
- clutch k1200rs shifter transmission
pglaves
#13338
I'm sorry to hear you have a problem. Not sure the best case scenario. The most expensive is $20,000 or so for a K1600.
lee
Debbie's Servant
John if you don't get any help you could try i-BMW. A lot of K1200RS owners there.
http://www.i-bmw.com/index.php?
Post in this section.
http://www.i-bmw.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23
Good luck.
http://www.i-bmw.com/index.php?
Post in this section.
http://www.i-bmw.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23
Good luck.
anglojaxon
AATW!
RBEmerson
Kein Nasebohrer
No "expensive" noises? No hope of rocking the rear wheel and seriously torquing the shifter to see what happens? Just one minute you're OK and the next nothing happens? Any time I've broken something, there's been a hint or two of things to come and/or That Expensive Noise when things went south. And none of that happened?
Obviously your worst case is replacing the tranny if it can't be rebuilt. And all of that will be an act of love, not financial sensibility.
Obviously your worst case is replacing the tranny if it can't be rebuilt. And all of that will be an act of love, not financial sensibility.
AntonLargiader
Active member
You have almost certainly broken the selector mechanism. In Service School it was recommended that we ALWAYS replace this part with the updated one when the transmission is open for a repair. 23 31 7 675 374 is the updated part. It's nearly $300, but it's only about nine hours of labor to replace it.
lee
Debbie's Servant
Good info, and it's a good idea to replace the seals and oring that tend to leak on the K1200RS.
goneregret
New member
I have this exact same problem on my 1998 K1200RS with 53,000 miles. Anybody know any tricks to make it shift again? I got a used transmission from ebay, it'll be here next week. Can anyone point me to a good tutorial on how to swap out the transmission? Or a good online repair manual (my PDF repair manual is missing chapters for some reason).
I swapped out the transmissions on airheads many times so I know the basic idea, but I really need a walk through to make sure I get all this right. I do daily commute and touring on this bike.
Thanks!
I swapped out the transmissions on airheads many times so I know the basic idea, but I really need a walk through to make sure I get all this right. I do daily commute and touring on this bike.
Thanks!
I use a CD version of the BMW service manual that I bought on E-bay for a few bucks. I think someone was burning copies off of a real one and selling them cheap.
In truth for jobs like this the manual is gets used mostly for torque values. What needs to come off is kinda obvious: nearly friggin everything. It'll make you wonder why you quit riding airheads.
None of it is rocket science, and these older K12s don't have the e-brakes, so they may not be as bad. It's still a lot of stuff to remove, and (hopefully) reattach properly. Takes lots of pictures before you remove the parts, especially of where the wires and tubes go so you can route them properly.
Depending on your bike's history, you may want to think about replacing the rear main seal(s) while you're into it this deep.
In truth for jobs like this the manual is gets used mostly for torque values. What needs to come off is kinda obvious: nearly friggin everything. It'll make you wonder why you quit riding airheads.
None of it is rocket science, and these older K12s don't have the e-brakes, so they may not be as bad. It's still a lot of stuff to remove, and (hopefully) reattach properly. Takes lots of pictures before you remove the parts, especially of where the wires and tubes go so you can route them properly.
Depending on your bike's history, you may want to think about replacing the rear main seal(s) while you're into it this deep.
AntonLargiader
Active member
You always.. always.. ALWAYS replace the crank O-ring when you are there. EVERY TIME.
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