83 R100 pulse intake system

[ksdcr]

I’m working on a 83 R100, that has been sitting for several years. Under the air filter, is a system that I believe BMW used back in the 80’s, called Pulse. Essentially, it recycles combustion gasses back into the intake, or something like that.
What I found when I opened the intake, under the air filter, is that, the alloy intake box lost about 75% of its interior paint. Along with that, was a caked on, chalky sediment, covering the pulse components as well as the interior of the intake box.

So the question is, one, can I just strip the rest if the interior paint finish, and have the intake box stay with bare aluminum?
Second, is it wise to eliminate the Pulse components, and just run the intake without it?

 

[20774]

Snowbum discusses the pulse-air system here and how to remove it and plug it up:

https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/pulseair.htm

 

[stevenrankin]

Remove

I removed my pulse system on my 84 R80RT. The biggest pain is plugging the holes in the heads. If I recall, one of the various drain plugs for BMW bikes fit the heads perfectly and with red locktite will stay in place. LOL, I used green the first time and one loosened up.

All the parts needed are available online, I may be wrong but perhaps Bob's BMW offered everything as a kit? St.

 

[20774]

I may be wrong but perhaps Bob's BMW offered everything as a kit? St.

I wonder if a dealer, in good conscience, can sell parts to defeat an original EPA piece of equipment. Just sayin....

 

[83014]

Peter used to sell a kit with all the plugs, bolts and gaskets.
https://www.bombarsbeemers.com/

Doug

 

[ksdcr]

Thanks guys, just the info I was looking for. For now, I plan to keep the system intact. But it is good to know that I have alternatives.

The other question is that the paint, on the interior of the lower air box, which houses the pulse system components, is self removing itself. I’m a noble to strip all of the remaining paint, down to bare aluminum. Is it OK to not repaint that part, and just keep it with just the aluminum surface?

 

[kbasa]

I’m working on a 83 R100, that has been sitting for several years. Under the air filter, is a system that I believe BMW used back in the 80’s, called Pulse. Essentially, it recycles combustion gasses back into the intake, or something like that.
What I found when I opened the intake, under the air filter, is that, the alloy intake box lost about 75% of its interior paint. Along with that, was a caked on, chalky sediment, covering the pulse components as well as the interior of the intake box.

So the question is, one, can I just strip the rest if the interior paint finish, and have the intake box stay with bare aluminum?
Second, is it wise to eliminate the Pulse components, and just run the intake without it?

Take it all off. Plug the holes in the airbox bottom half with timing plugs. On the heads, you can stick and appropriately sized bolt in the hole left behind and you're done. The plumbing coming into the airbox from the breather is fine in there, including the little swirly things that go in the intakes, so just leave that all as is.

If you'd like, get some PJ1 Semi Gloss black (or spray paint of your choice), clean the airbox bottom and paint it before you bolt it all back together.

You don't need to do anything else to the bike.

 

[stevenrankin]

plugs

I couldn't remember if the airbag plugs were timing hole plugs, I guess they are, The only thing to worry about is plugging the vacuum lines into each of the carbs. I left the hoses on and plugged them inside the box with a golf tee cut off and glued in place.

I didn't mean to throw Bob's under the bus but I recall one of the shops selling parts online did sell the parts needed as a kit I thought it was Bob's I could be mistaken.

As to any difference in performance after my removal, meh! I really think the system stopped working years ago and was going along for the ride.

The only reason I removed it was the two tubes gaining into the heads were corroded badly and looked like they would start leaking. I did not want to pay for new or used ones on a system that did very little to begin with. All the junk in the air box that was not needed ended up in the trash.

If you are going to paint and stuff, save yourself effort, strip the useless stuff out, and put back only what is needed, that is my two cents. Cheers, St.

 

[83014]

Bombar’s kit had the screws for the carbs, bolts for the heads and plugs for the box, everything you need to remove the crap.

Doug

 

[ksdcr]

Thanks, I see that Snowbum has most of the parts numbers. But, if Bombar has a kit, I’d just as soon by it from him/ them.

83014, would you have his contact Info, that you could share?
Thanks
John

Bombar’s kit had the screws for the carbs, bolts for the heads and plugs for the box, everything you need to remove the crap.

Doug

 

[ksdcr]

Dave, Steve,
Thanks.

 

[ksdcr]

Any idea what this crusty looking thing is?

I’m referring to the silver colored relay type thing, strapped to to top frame member, under the fuel tank.
Pics are 90 degrees to the left.

 

[20774]

Bombar's info in North Carolina is listed on this page.

https://ibmwr.org/index.php/independent-bmw-mechanics/

Your pictures are too fuzzy and too close up to see what the silver relay is. If it's a relay, you can pull it out and see if there's any printing on the side of it.

 

[ksdcr]

Thanks Kurt.

 

[kbasa]

Bombar's info in North Carolina is listed on this page.

https://ibmwr.org/index.php/independent-bmw-mechanics/

Your pictures are too fuzzy and too close up to see what the silver relay is. If it's a relay, you can pull it out and see if there's any printing on the side of it.

Find your schematic and note the pin numbers on the connector. Then, find a relay with the same number of incoming connections and compare the numbers.

 

[stevenrankin]

Under the gas tank on the left

So I am going to guess, LOL, I haven't taken time to check for sure but if the picture of the two relays is from the frame on the left side near the front under the gas tank, the plastic relay would be the starter relay. The other silver relay if memory serves me is for the four way flasher system, if you have them installed on your bike, or at least it is for my two airheads.

Just adding my two cents, with the minor amount of effort I sometimes put forth in answering posts, LOL, I get lazy or in this case I am in my office at my computer and the wiring diagrams are in my shop. I will put in a plug for EME's line of very good large, plastic matted, color, numbered wiring diagrams, best on the market. Sorry I am too lazy right now to go to the garage to check mine. St.

 

[ksdcr]

Steve,

Yes, that is precisely the location of said relay.

Along the top rail, about six inches from the headstock, and on the left side.

It is a 5 prong, 30 amp relay. Unfortunately, I did not receive the owners manual with this bike, which usupually has the schematics.

 

[stevenrankin]

owners manual

Walsh, the owners manual wiring diagram is fair, to use, If you are going to be doing a lot of rewiring and trouble shooting as I suggest, LOL, cajole, invest in the EME diagram to match the bike.

Sorry, I am just drinking coffee and have not yet been out to look at my diagram in the garage but, I do think the silver relay is the emergency four way flasher relay. On the S model bike, the switch for the emergency flashers might be in the center of the pad on the handlebars, just about where the steering damper knob is. If not there, it could be added on as a switch down on the headlight mounts, inside the fairing, or clamped to the headlight mount.

Not many bikes had emergency flasher installed so I could be way off base and leading you in the wrong direction. I promise, I will get my diagram out and look to see for sure. LOL, if it is the emergency flasher unit, than the wiring diagram will not show it. There is an added BMW diagram needed to trace the wiring for BMW factory four way flashers. I have a copy on a PDF file, I will look for and post.

Just out of curiosity where are you located at? I am in the Rochester NY area and have an airhead shop 40 miles from me if you ever need help or service. St.

 

[stevenrankin]

I am sorry

I am sorry, I have been trying to upload and post the picture of the wiring diagram I have on hand for the hazard system and the forum will not let me. After seven or eight different tries and failures, I give up. If you want a copy, private message me your email and I will attach and send it to you.

Stupid forum lets me post bloody useless emjoies or icons but not important things. My grump for the day, St.

 

[ksdcr]

Steve,

Thanks for the ideas. I am in bucks county Pa, about 30 miles north of Philly.

So, interesting that this R100 does not have the knob type steering damper, or the rocker switch for four way flashers on the dash pad.

However, the PO has a switch installed up near the Voltmeter. He couldn’t remember what it controls. I haven’t been able to trace where it goes yet, but it could be a 4 way flasher switch..

My main goal, initially, is to get the motor started, to see what I have. I’m letting the cylinders soak in some Mystery oil, to make sure I don’t break any rings etc. Also, I’m awaiting on a set of Bing maintenance kits, to freshen up the carbs.

Thanks for the offer of your shop. You guys have some nice roads upstate, especially around the lakes.

John