2014 R1200RT - no service records - OK or pass?

[evillerich]

Hello braintrust,

I'm shopping around for a R1200RT and have settled on a wethead after testing out the hexhead and camhead varieties. Mostly due to comfort and wind coverage. The added electronics and nice-to-haves are a selling point for longer trips.

Anyway, I'm looking at 2014 RT with ~44,000 miles on it. Decent shape. Sign of a tip-over on the right side, but nothing bad. Front brake pads at ~3mm (eyeball), so still some life. My concern is that there are zero service records for this bike. The owner has only owned it for a short time and needs to sell it due to other expenses. Purchased it from a larger independent motorcycle dealer in the region. The seller was honest enough to tell me that he has done zero service in the 4,000 miles he's owned it. Felt good and stuff all seemed to work. Good around town and at fast highway speeds (I won't say how fast, but fast). Mileage doesn't bother me and, really, mileage suggests some history of "good enough" maintenance in the past, and not just sitting around is generally a good thing.

The asking price is a bit more than what it's worth to me. But my bigger concern is the unknown service history. Being who I am, I'd do most of the work and go through the fluids, driveshaft spline lube, etc. Under the assumption I can negotiate a price that makes it worthwhile, I'm really just worried about the big stuff. I'm planning to use the bike for longer trips and maybe a bit of commuting to keep it from sitting. Not a project bike (I have a '87 K75S for that).

Any words of wisdom before jumping into the unknown? There's a likelihood that "what it's worth to me" is less than what it's worth to the seller, but you never know - I might end up with it. Unless walking away is the smarter move.

Thank you!
Eville Rich
'87 K75S
'16 Yammie S10
'15 Yammie WR250R

 

[61249]

The best thing you can do is find a friend with a HEX GS-911 that is willing to have you use one of the limited bike connections of the GS-911 and attach to the bike of interest and pull the error codes of each of the bike’s computers. If the bike shows no error codes, I would take the bike on a 50 mile ride then read the codes again to be sure the codes hadn’t been cleared.
Also make sure the bike went through the original suspension recall to replace the shocks.

 

[lee]

The best thing you can do is find a friend with a HEX GS-911 that is willing to have you use one of the limited bike connections of the GS-911 and attach to the bike of interest and pull the error codes of each of the bike’s computers. If the bike shows no error codes, I would take the bike on a 50 mile ride then read the codes again to be sure the codes hadn’t been cleared.
Also make sure the bike went through the original suspension recall to replace the shocks.

You do not have to register the VIN when checking codes.
Good idea to check on the recalls. A dealer can run the VIN.

 

[k12lts]

Have a dealer run the VIN. They can pull up any open recalls and possibly find service records if anything was ever done at a BMW dealership. If the bike ride out good and is clean I'd take a chance if the price was right. They are pretty durable bikes. You can then do a complete service when you buy it to have a base line for future service.

 

[motodan]

Have VIN ran by a dealer to determine original retail dealer. Call that original dealer for possible details. I've purchased used, but usually low miles (under 10K). Mid 40k's would have me concerned if I couldn't get ANY maintenance records. Especially true if the price isn't in the "no maintenance records" category. There are other bikes that will/could come with peace of mind included in the transaction.

 

[strataj]

You've gotten some good advice already. I just traded in my 2014 with about 57,000. The bike was in perfect shape, clean no damage and highly maintained. In my opinion if you are buying a late model bike you want it to have miles on it, 44,000 to me is on the low side but it has been ridden hopefully it's entire service life. I would pull the valve covers and check the cams for any wear and if you can pull the oil drain plug and look for any metal pieces.

Good Luck!

 

[23217]

For recalls you can check with NHTSA.gov at https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

Or directly from BMW at https://nhtsa.bmwgroup.com/safetyrecall/pages/motorradRecallSearch.xhtml

Generally riders who do not service their own bikes do not have service records. Dealers have service records and sales for their location.

 

[droveto]

Not really advice on this particular machine, but I plan to add an RT to my garage in the fall/winter. I expect prices to come down over the next few months as the supply shortage has seemed to peak and we're entering a period of inflation, possible stagflation... There are going to be some good deals on all the impulse COVID purchases soon...

 

[easy]

Have VIN ran by a dealer to determine original retail dealer. Call that original dealer for possible details. I've purchased used, but usually low miles (under 10K). Mid 40k's would have me concerned if I couldn't get ANY maintenance records. Especially true if the price isn't in the "no maintenance records" category. There are other bikes that will/could come with peace of mind included in the transaction.

+1

Take it to a good mechanic, and have him go over it. But if, "The asking price is a bit more than what it's worth to me," I would pass unless he's willing to negotiate the price. By the way, what is he asking for it?

E.

 

[AjaxTheDog]

Look carefully for oil/fluid leaks. A leaking (defective) shock or rear engine oil seal will run big bucks to get fixed. Ask me how I know. A really bright flashlight helps.

This was a few years ago but may still be true. A dealer told me that maintenance records were stored at each dealer and not by BMW corp, so you may have to check several dealers to find where maintenance was done. There is no single place to check.

 

[PoorUB]

There are many motorcycles out there with no service records, mine included. My RT has been in for a brake flush, and that is all, everything else I have done myself. I suppose I could write it down in the manual, but I just do the regular service as recommended. Are a few check marks or notes really worth anything?

 

[strataj]

There are many motorcycles out there with no service records, mine included. My RT has been in for a brake flush, and that is all, everything else I have done myself. I suppose I could write it down in the manual, but I just do the regular service as recommended. Are a few check marks or notes really worth anything?

I traded in my 14R1200RT when I purchased a 22R1250RT. I had all of the manuals, keys and tools that come with the bike, I was the original owner. I turned that over to the dealer with my service records (http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead_600_6k_12k_Service_Schedule.pdf), I asked if he wanted this, without question he said yes this is very helpful. The records shows when and what was done. Just my option but as a buyer this would give me more confidence in the bike.

 

[Omega Man]

There are many motorcycles out there with no service records, mine included. My RT has been in for a brake flush, and that is all, everything else I have done myself. I suppose I could write it down in the manual, but I just do the regular service as recommended. Are a few check marks or notes really worth anything?

I’m liking this ^^^
I write the date a miles on the oil filter on the F800GS and service accordingly. With most used purchases there is risk. With a lot of new purchases there is a different kind of risk…..mostly support, service and time without the bike.
OM

 

[Paul_F]

I traded in my 14R1200RT when I purchased a 22R1250RT. I had all of the manuals, keys and tools that come with the bike, I was the original owner. I turned that over to the dealer with my service records (http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead_600_6k_12k_Service_Schedule.pdf), I asked if he wanted this, without question he said yes this is very helpful. The records shows when and what was done. Just my option but as a buyer this would give me more confidence in the bike.

The next owner of your bike was very fortunate.

When I bought my used Oilhead from a dealer, I was told there were no service records for the bike. A number of months later when bumping into a distant friend, he told me I had his former bike and he had handed in all the service records for the bike.

 

[lee]

I traded in my 14R1200RT when I purchased a 22R1250RT. I had all of the manuals, keys and tools that come with the bike, I was the original owner. I turned that over to the dealer with my service records (http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead_600_6k_12k_Service_Schedule.pdf), I asked if he wanted this, without question he said yes this is very helpful. The records shows when and what was done. Just my option but as a buyer this would give me more confidence in the bike.

I do the same but instead of the complete service I showed the recent service. On oil and brake fluid I said how often it was charged.
Two shop employees bought our trade ins and they liked knowing what was done with the bikes.

Lee R1200RS Recent Service

Rear Tire Oct 2021 56,380 miles
Front Tire Nov 2020 48,930 miles
Oil and Filter changed every 4,000 to 5,000 miles Oct 2021 57,945 miles
Final Drive Oil Change Oct 2021 56,380 miles
Brake Fluid changed first year and every two years Aug 2021 56,030 miles
Spark Plugs Oct 2021 47,550 miles
Air Filter Oct 2020 48,930 miles
Valve Check Sep 2020 47,550 miles
Drive Shaft Spline Lubed Aug 2021 56,200 miles
Rear Brake Pads (Changed early) Oct 2020 48,930 miles
Fork Oil Changed Nov 2017 22,725 miles
Rear TPM Changed May 2021 52,750 miles
New Battery Dec 2017 20,880 miles
Replaced Oil Level Sensor Oct 2018 31,118 miles

 

[lee]

. A dealer told me that maintenance records were stored at each dealer and not by BMW corp, so you may have to check several dealers to find where maintenance was done. There is no single place to check.

I was also told this at two different dealers 5 or 6 years ago.
A Master Tech said there was talk from BMW of dealers being able to see service done at other dealers but he did not know when that would happen.

 

[slowpokepete]

A Master Tech said there was talk from BMW of dealers being able to see service done at other dealers but he did not know when that would happen.

In this day and age, this is absurd.

SPP

 

[cap]

Back to the question by the OP

The wethead RT's have a few known trouble spots. They include,
1. Excessive Cam Wear,
2. Rusted Final Drive Spline, and
3. Seized Exhaust Flap

You can check for the exhaust flap by turning the bike power on, (not starting the engine), and then listen closely for a mechanical noise from the exhaust. Then turn off the power and wait, you should hear it again.

Detecting cam wear requires removing the valve covers. It is a go-no-go inspection -- the cam lobes will look normal or they will have a large notch carved into them. Removing the valve covers is an easy job. Just be very careful not to over-torque the bolts when you reinstall the covers.

Discovering if the final drive spline is rusted takes more time and effort. I recommend using Boxflyer's series of 12k maintenance videos to get an appreciation for the task.

Having said this, I don't recall ever buying a motorcycle from a stranger who would allow me to perform the level of inspection that the final drive or cam checks require. Good luck with that,

Cap

 

[88bmwjeff]

There are many motorcycles out there with no service records, mine included. My RT has been in for a brake flush, and that is all, everything else I have done myself. I suppose I could write it down in the manual, but I just do the regular service as recommended. Are a few check marks or notes really worth anything?

While I haven't kept receipts for maintenance items for my '88 R100 RT, I keep a maintenance log with the date, mileage and what was done. When I was looking for the GS, it came to me that receipts for the maintenance items (e.g. oil, filter, etc.) is a good supplement for those who do their own maintenance.

 

[alegerlotz]

If it were me, I'd find an independent willing to do a "pre-purchase inspection" who could give the bike a once over and check the typical items. As part of that inspection, I'd have the cams checked for wear. If all of that checks out, then chances are good that the bike has no serious issues.

If you don't want to go that far, you can check some things yourself in a few minutes:

• You can check the charging system via the volt display on the dash with the bike running. Should measure at least 14 after the bike starts and runs a few seconds.
• You can check the final drive/driveshaft by putting the bike on the center stand in gear and measuring how far you can move the wheel (does not address prior poster's rusted splines issue, but I'm less worried about that one).
• You already visually checked the brake pads
• Look for coolant weeping out the vent hole on the left side of the bike and check the coolant level through the radiator exhaust hole on the right side of the bike (to see if the bike is using coolant)
• You can check the exhaust flap at startup
• Dashboard lights for systems are obvious, but expect the ABS lights to be on until you get going.
• TPMS should read within 10 seconds or so of riding away
• Safety systems like the bike shutting off in gear with the side stand down can be exercised, etc...
• etc...

Really the cams would be the thing I'd most be worried about, and those can be checked by pulling the valve covers. Doing this requires the most work, involves tools, and potentially makes a mess and requires a bit of oil to be added back into the bike. Worst case you could pull the oil fill plug and put a thin scope down there to see if the right side cams look worn, but I personally would want to pull the valve covers. This is the issue I worry about most on my own bike when I do the 12K interval service (although I'm still within my extended warranty).

If you negotiate the price first and are willing to follow through on the purchase if the cams don't have an issue, then IMO a reasonable seller would let you check them.

Grab a 12K Service Interval Sheet from the internet and essentially check everything there that you can without tools (except the cams as described above).