2011 R1200RT worn front wheel spacer

[biotechbill]

Non-Gearhead here doing some service on my 2011 R1200RT in preperation for my trip to the MOA rally in Des Moines; which for me will be upwards of a 3000-4000 mile trip as I'm visiting family in Missouri & Iowa in the process.

Most recent work done was changing tires and brakes last weekend. All went well but when cleaning up the front wheel spacer found some wear on the outer surface on the side facing the wheel bearings. Wasn't much, if any, grease in that area so applied some automotive lithium grease to outer edge of both bearings and axle before putting everything back together.

Question is this; is the wear on the spacer a problem and is it indicative of a larger problem with the wheel bearings? Should I replace the spacer and/or the wheel bearings just to be safe. I don't seem to have any play in the wheel and it seems to turn smoothly from what I can tell not being a gearhead.

This is probably my first post ever, on any forum, so I hope I've made myself clear and that the two photos I'm attaching are visible with this post.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

Blind Cragg

Former Harley, Rice Burner owner and now a BMW convert.

 

[beemerphile]

It does not indicate a larger problem with the bearings. Looks like wear from the lip of the seal. Even though the bearings are sealed, I always load up the area under the seal with marine or trailer grease just to keep a layer of defense against road and wash splash getting to the sealed bearing. Also serves to lube the lip of the seal. The spacer looks symmetrical. If so, have you considered simply reversing it to let it wear on the opposite side? I'd try that first. Otherwise, the same 36 31 7 691 443 spacer fits all of the oil-cooled R1200's from early on to the end of production.

https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=%2036%2031%207%20691%20443%0A

 

[biotechbill]

Good advice

Thanks Lee, It does look to be symmetrical and I had considered flipping it around or just replacing it. I think I'll take your advice and flip it for the time being and check wear on the other end after putting some miles on.

 

[AntonLargiader]

It's easy enough to check wheel bearings when you change tires. I *almost* always do that, especially on models where wheel bearing problems are a known thing.

But what I do always do is clean off the seal lip and spacer, and then apply a wipe of fresh grease. I see some wear on the spacer but almost never to the extent that your picture shows. That's from abrasive dirt that you need to remove. Wipe the seal lip clean with a rag. You will sometimes find hardened dirt and old grease that comes off in chunks.

 

[beemerphile]

It's easy enough to check wheel bearings when you change tires..

My favorite time to check front bearings is after the brake calipers are dismounted but before the wheel is removed. I can feel roughness and lateral play more easily then than with wheel in-hand. A mechanic's stethoscope can help one hear a faint thump or rumble developing. If I don't hear anything, I replace sealed wheel bearings at 40K miles regardless. Probably overkill.

out with the old...



freeze the bearing...



A bit of press fit lube (to the bearing, not the bore) not only eases the fit, it keeps frost from forming on the cold bearing which can interfere with the fit.



heat the bore...



in with the new...



Done and done. Now I can worry about something else...

 

[AntonLargiader]

Well I would never use a press to install a wheel bearing, but I have the means to heat the whole wheel. Ideally they drop or tap in.

And in the pic below, I don't see a bearing spacer in there so I hope you were really just done with the first side....

...Done and done. Now I can worry about something else...

View attachment 68670

 

[beemerphile]

Well I would never use a press to install a wheel bearing, but I have the means to heat the whole wheel. Ideally they drop or tap in.

And in the pic below, I don't see a bearing spacer in there so I hope you were really just done with the first side....

Yes, that was the first side. It is a 40 ton press, and clearly one shouldn't use tonnage to install the bearing. I have a pressure gauge on it and it stays at zero for the entire operation until it bottoms. I can also tell that the force is minimal by the sound of the air/hydraulic unit As soon as the gauge moves off zero, the bearing is seated. I use it because 1) it is there; 2) it has a big enough throat for the wheel; 3) I can square everything with no pressure on the brake discs and make sure the bearing starts and goes down squarely instead of trying to do straight licks with a hammer; 4) I don't have a (wife-approved) way to heat the entire wheel; 5) I hate using hammers either to get old bearings out (I use a blind puller) or new bearings in.

I guess additionally when I was growing up my dad was a NASA engineer. Once my dad came out and heard me slide-hammering a broken drive axle out of my '57 Chevy and he said "You don't fix anything with a damned hammer. A NASA mechanic doesn't even have a hammer in his tool box." So, maybe it stuck. I like to be kind and gentle to machines and (like a good cop) only use the minimum amount of force necessary to get the result. I have often wondered whether the NASA mechanic would have ever gotten the 1957 Chevy back on the road.

 

[biotechbill]

Thanks again!

Thanks guys, nice pics. Lee, I've never heard of a "Blind Puller". Is that what's in the picture with the bearing on the end of it? I assume it goes in from the front and somehow grabs the back of the bearing to remove it?

BioTechBill

 

[beemerphile]

Thanks guys, nice pics. Lee, I've never heard of a "Blind Puller". Is that what's in the picture with the bearing on the end of it? I assume it goes in from the front and somehow grabs the back of the bearing to remove it?

BioTechBill

That is it. To be a "blind" puller, it has to go in from the front. It has a split mandrel with lips on the lower edge that grip the race ID when a bolt is tightened in the center of the mandrel that spreads the diameter of it. Once tightened, you can withdraw the bearing (or race) using a threaded puller as shown or a slide hammer attachment (bad form at my house :-J )

 

[biotechbill]

That is it. To be a "blind" puller, it has to go in from the front. It has a split mandrel with lips on the lower edge that grip the race ID when a bolt is tightened in the center of the mandrel that spreads the diameter of it. Once tightened, you can withdraw the bearing (or race) using a threaded puller as shown or a slide hammer attachment (bad form at my house :-J )

I might need to pick one of those up. Thanks again Lee. I have another, what I hope is a minor, issue. Just finished my last little project which was re-mounting the Illium highway pegs after painting the mounting brackets. They went back on sans problem but I noticed a drop or two of oil on the ground underneath the rear shock. It's obviously coming from the shock. How big a problem is that? I don't have time to fix that myself before heading out next weekend to Des Moines and I'm not sure the dealer could get me in an out that quickly?

Any thoughts?

Bill

 

[beemerphile]

Hard to predict if it is just going to dribble for a while or if the seal is going to let go and dump the entire charge. If it does, the bike is still ridable, though not so much fun. You can clean up the mess and motor on. I am not sure that the dealer can rebuild the shocks. If I were in that position (and I was last year with my R1200GS) I'd call Ted Porter at BeemerShop and ask him for a recommendation. He steered me to Wilbers ESA conversions of my OEM shocks.

 

[Gillie Dog]

I noticed a drop or two of oil on the ground underneath the rear shock. It's obviously coming from the shock. How big a problem is that? I don't have time to fix that myself before heading out next weekend to Des Moines and I'm not sure the dealer could get me in an out that quickly?

Any thoughts?

Bill

Happened to my 2010RT at less than 20K miles. My guess you will be fine with drops on the ground until you have time/can get it/them replaced. Ted pointed me to Tractive in order to keep "progressive" elastomer "spring" of ESA II. I did both front and rear when the drops started on my garage floor under the rear. The advantage to after market, which ever ones you decide on, is tuning them to you, your riding style and load carried besides being less expensive, rebuild-able and in my opinion work better.

GD

 

[biotechbill]

GD & Lee,

Good advice from both of you. I decided it wasn't worth taking a chance on the shock crapping out on me on what will be a 3000 - 4000 mile ride. I called Ted and decided on purchasing a TFX 140 EMULSION SHOCK W/ HPA / Rebound & Hydraulic Preload Adjust. It's manual so no ESA but was the quickest fix which suits my current need to get this bike roadworthy in time for the Des Moines! I removed the shock after work tonight and will put everything back together on Friday when the shock arrives.

Now, another question or two. Do you happen to know the torque setting for the top & bottom fastener? Any need for Locktite on the bottom fastener? It was a little difficult to remove and looked like someone put red Locktite on it (that certainly doesn't seem necessary). Is any lubrication needed like on the bushing/spacer where it attaches at the bottom? I'm attaching a picture of what I'm calling the bushing/spacer.

Bill

 

[biotechbill]

Ignore that first pic. That was a reminder to me where one of the tupperware screws went

 

[beemerphile]

I use either a smear of moly fortified grease or a mixture of #2 lithium grease with moly paste on the bushing to ward off squeaks. I use blue Loctite on the bottom bolt and nothing on the upper. I hate to quote a torque value because my 2013 R1200GS might be different from your R1200RT. I'd recommend another call to Ted or one of his capable minions.

 

[Gillie Dog]

From BMW DVD repair manual for 2010 to 2013RT:

Bottom rear strut bolt torque 58Nm.
Top rear strut bolt bolt torque 50Nm.

It states thread locking "243 medium" and bottom and thread locking "mechanical" on top. I used blue like Lee says.

GD

 

[beemerphile]

As I remember, the FSM also says to replace the upper nut, but I don't know of anyone flying off into the weeds for failing to do so.

 

[jsoque]

Welcome Aboard Bill!

Welcome Bill you convert!
You started a great thread as you can see, we are all wrenchers of some sort or another.
As you prepare to meet the rest of the family in Des Moines, IA, you will see that our forums threads liven' up quite a bit because we take preparedness very seriously! I'm more of a rider than a wrencher, I'll leave that to the professionals.
Never had a spacer wear unevenly on 20K miles on my 2010, R1200RT, second owner. Don't forget to check the torque setting on your pinch bolts!
Good luck with your travels and hopefully we'll see you out there some time soon!
Jim