• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

2004 R1150RS fwd right fairing cracked

MOONDOG59

Active member
Ok ladies & gentlemen,
screw was spinning trying to remove it. I suspect the nutplate
is spinning. Tried a little "prying" and I mean a little. Fairing cracked :cry
So I stop drilled the crack. What has proved successful repairing
a crack? Does fiberglass resin stick
to this plastic?
 
It’s plastic?
West System G-Flex epoxy with a fiberglass fabric backer should take care of it.

OM
 
I am not sure whether it is plastic or what it is.

Probably an ABS type of plastic.

West System epoxy-

It has a superior grip so that it can be used to bond to metals, plastics, glass, masonry, and fiberglass. This epoxy is ideal for repairs to aluminum boats and polyethylene and ABS canoes and kayaks. It can also be used to wet out and bond fiberglass tapes and fabrics.

OM
 
I used JB Weld to fix my cracked R100 RS fairing. Worked a treat!
IMG_7881-XL.jpg

IMG_7912-XL.jpg

IMG_7913-XL.jpg
 
Probably an ABS type of plastic.

West System epoxy-

It has a superior grip so that it can be used to bond to metals, plastics, glass, masonry, and fiberglass. This epoxy is ideal for repairs to aluminum boats and polyethylene and ABS canoes and kayaks. It can also be used to wet out and bond fiberglass tapes and fabrics.

OM
Thank you
 
MoonDog59 - JB Weld also makes a two part plastic weld. I used it successfully to repair an RT fairing after a deer "incident".
 
View attachment 93577
Picture is worth a million words :)

FORGET the glue!!! Pick up one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BBL8R1WS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you will LOVE me for it!!!

I have fixed several fenders bumpers and other plastic stuff with this! It works PERFECTLY. I can hold the plastic to almost perfect closed, then put in a hot staple. I have never gone thru - and have not messed up my paint ever. The trick I use is JUST get the staple just under the surface of the back of the crack, snip the ends, grind the ends down flush (or a bit lower) - then used the hot foot and smooth over the ridges - it makes the inside almost disappear also!!!

the kit has a couple plastic sticks to melt on it - if the crack has a missing piece you can build it with this! I also use cut offs of my zip ties - they melt and fuse perfectly for our plastic parts on BMW.

Best of luck!
 
That looks like a handy outfit. Embedding a “stitch” gets away from trying to stick smooth to smooth. :thumb

OM
 
JB Weld "standard" has worked great on my fairing - make a "lap" joint by epoxying a piece of aluminum over the crack (on the inside, of course), and after it drys, use a little more to fill the visible part of the crack.
 
Update: Fairing fell to the floor and cracked in half
before I could attempt fix. :banghead

Found a used fairing on Ebay
and ordered ($250). Got fairing and attempted to install but fastener holes
did not line up. Start in front, aft holes 3/8" short. Start in aft, same thing.
A friend tried also and we were both flummoxed :banghead.

I can make work fastening the front first, then the center fastener and Velcro the aft. The one quick fastener that attaches to rear fairing could be attached.
The forward seat will cover the upper, aft holes.

My question is, are these fairings "drilled-to-fit"? Anybody else have trouble usingother OEM fairings off another bike?
 
I have no doubt that "production" fairings are drilled by robots, to fit all of a particular model.
"Drilled to fit" would be extremely time-consuming and labor-intensive.

I've had my present RT for 18 years, and over time, the two main side pieces do seem to have warped a bit (aside from any minor changes that my fixes may have caused); this could be due to temperature (especially near the exhaust), "settling" of other parts, removing & reinstalling the gas tank, smaller brackets' alignments (I've had to very slightly move a couple), or the alignment of Mars and Jupiter...
Bender.jpg
 
I have no doubt that "production" fairings are drilled by robots, to fit all of a particular model.
"Drilled to fit" would be extremely time-consuming and labor-intensive.

I've had my present RT for 18 years, and over time, the two main side pieces do seem to have warped a bit (aside from any minor changes that my fixes may have caused); this could be due to temperature (especially near the exhaust), "settling" of other parts, removing & reinstalling the gas tank, smaller brackets' alignments (I've had to very slightly move a couple), or the alignment of Mars and Jupiter...
View attachment 93933
I wondered about the contour of the fairing being different from the factory or over time. No amount of bending was going to line up the holes
 
Back
Top