1994 R00R #0280849 Airhead R100R

[3qtrtym]

Hello,
Regarding a BMW 1994 R00R #0280849 Airhead
I own this beautiful motorcycle but the engine needs a rebuild.
It seems that the bike was operated without the $2000 correct o-ring installed
in the oil filter system, and has 52K miles.

I would like to check the availability and pricing of parts so that I
may rebuild this engine - new crankshaft bearings, piston rings,
possible camshaft and related parts replacement.
Plus have the necessary parts machined.

My questions are - Where are these parts available?, local parts department at BMW dealership?
Bikebandit? any suggestions?
Where in Seattle can I get the some machine work related to this BMW motorcycle?

Thank you very much.
Sincerely,

Kerry

KerryJohnson@icloud.com

 

[20774]

Kerry -

Sorry to hear about that. Are you certain that the engine is toast? Before I knew about the $2000 o-ring, I changed my /7 filter a number of times but didn't replace the large white o-ring. Then it was explained to me. Apparently, the older o-ring was at least doing its job so my engine suffered no ill effects.

I suppose you could piecemeal parts from various places...might be able to save a few dollars. I'd be afraid of not getting parts to match up, etc. If you were after the entire "guts" of the block, possibly someone would be able to cut you some kind of deal. On the west coast, I'd check with Ted Porter in NorCal about that. I seem to remember Shail's BMW up in your neck of the woods. You could ask these people who they might suggest for machine work.

In my signature line is link that contains another link to independent Airheads shops around the country. Check that list for BMW places nearest you and again, ask for what they can do on parts and/or machine work.

 

[dennisdarrow]

To follow up on Kurt's question of: Are you sure your engine is toast??


Is it knocking......smoking.......no power.........leaking oil.......no compression.....wont start...no oil pressure....and more......???????????

How long have you had the bike and how do you KNOW the "O" rings are/were wrong. Actually there are several variable when installing the O rings and perhaps they possibly installed correctly??????

 

[3qtrtym]

Kerry -

Sorry to hear about that. Are you certain that the engine is toast? Before I knew about the $2000 o-ring, I changed my /7 filter a number of times but didn't replace the large white o-ring. Then it was explained to me. Apparently, the older o-ring was at least doing its job so my engine suffered no ill effects.

Kurt, Thank you for your reply - about the degree of toast - after removing the pan and looking up - the lifters are in good contact with the camshaft lobes which themselves all seem to be evenly wore, - upon rotation via the rear wheel - they lifers still rotate nicely but they are pretty beat up albeit beat-up evenly - but the noise they make is pretty loud, I replayed a video of before a ride and after there is a big difference in noise -(marbles in a coffee can) and a hight level of blow-by if I remove the dipstick with the engine running-
I'll check your references to parts -
I've rebuilt many V8, Straight 4,6 and a Honda CB750, Suzuki 550 - is the process for this Airhead a big difference?
Thank you,
Kerry

 

[3qtrtym]

To follow up on Kurt's question of: Are you sure your engine is toast??


Is it knocking......smoking.......no power.........leaking oil.......no compression.....wont start...no oil pressure....and more......???????????

How long have you had the bike and how do you KNOW the "O" rings are/were wrong. Actually there are several variable when installing the O rings and perhaps they possibly installed correctly??????

Dennis - my main complaint is all the noise - there is compression , and power, no oil leaks, after installing white o-ring oil pressure light never came back on with a new oil change to Rotella T 10-40 - Starts and runs fine- but man, it sounds like marbles in a coffee can - My thinking is that I'm doing more damage- like to the crank or it all comes apart and I break the block - then that escalates cost dramatically.
Thank you,
Kerry

 

[20774]

It's not clear if you've always been running the Rotella oil. But I believe Shell Rotella T was an oil that drastically reduced the amount of ZDDP in the formula which can lead to cam lifter and tappet failure as you have described. I have a friend with a '65 R60/2 that this happened to his bike. So, I'm not sure if it was the o-ring issue or if it was the change in oil protection. In any case, the failure of the face of the lifters has sent tiny bits of metal all through the engine and probably results in the same thing...the engine has to come apart and cleaned/replaced parts reinstalled.

Is it possible that the sound is the cam chain hitting the side of the case?

 

[3qtrtym]

Is it possible that the sound is the cam chain hitting the side of the case?[/QUOTE]

Dennis - Thank you - I will be pulling the engine apart ( I will post info if the timing chain is banging on the case-
as soon as a I get the alternator removal tool-
So when this is all new again ...
What oil should I run in this engine? any additives?
Thank you.
Kerry

 

[20774]

What oil should I run in this engine? any additives?

I noticed you said 10w40...personally, I would think it should be 20w50 unless you were always running in a very cool environment. But I think the owners manual will suggest 20w50.

Oil is always a hotly debated topic. Generally, I would recommend a quality oil with an API rating of SG/SH. This will contain a healthy portion of ZDDP that the engines of this design needs. I wrote an article on oil in the March 2013 Owners News as a result of testing nearly 20 different brands of oil. I wanted to find out the specs for some key parameters for oil. If you don't have a copy of the issue, it's available on the main website. Here's a link to the issue:

http://digital.turn-page.com/i/116570-bmwon-mar-2013

 

[SCBuckeye]

Dennis - my main complaint is all the noise - there is compression , and power, no oil leaks, after installing white o-ring oil pressure light never came back on with a new oil change to Rotella T 10-40 - Starts and runs fine- but man, it sounds like marbles in a coffee can - My thinking is that I'm doing more damage- like to the crank or it all comes apart and I break the block - then that escalates cost dramatically.
Thank you,Kerry

On other engines I have worked on, the connecting rod bearings get ruined first, then the upper end rocker bearings .. The areas first affected by low oil (pressure) are those areas where oil is pumped through oil lines, not places where oil is "splashed" as the pistons, etc.

 

[3qtrtym]

On other engines I have worked on, the connecting rod bearings get ruined first, then the upper end rocker bearings .. The areas first affected by low oil (pressure) are those areas where oil is pumped through oil lines, not places where oil is "splashed" as the pistons, etc.

SCBuckeye,
Thank you - I will check it out ..
Kerry

 

[3qtrtym]

Seal and gasket set engine - 11001338422

I have discovered what is in SEAL AND GASKET SET ENGINE - 11001338422
the fits my 1994 BMW R100R Airhead #0280849

SEAL AND GASKET SET ENGINE - 11001338422
07 11 9 963 300 - Gasket ring A18X22 x1
11 11 1 262 141 - Gasket ring 11X2 x4
11 11 1 337 567 - O-ring 93X2,2 x2
11 11 1 338 342 - Shaft seal 100X80X10 x1
11 12 1 338 426 - Gasket ASBESTFREI x2
11 12 1 338 715 - Cylinder head gasket asbestos-free x2
11 13 1 338 427 - Gasket x1
11 14 1 337 654 - Shaft seal 28X47X7 x1
11 14 1 338 428 - Gasket x1
11 14 1 338 429 - Washer-gasket x2
11 15 1 338 430 - Gasket x1
11 15 1 338 432 - Gasket x1
11 22 1 337 093 - Gasket ring 59X3MM x1
11 31 1 256 861 - Shaft seal 7X16X7 x1
11 32 1 262 995 - PUSHROD SEAL x4
11 41 1 265 258 - Gasket x2
11 41 1 335 895 - O-ring x1
11 42 1 336 895 Washer - 51.9X45,3X0,3MM x1
11 42 1 337 098 - Ring44X4 x1
11 42 1 338 600 - Gasket Asbestos Free x1
23 12 7 705 086 - Shaft seal 20X32X8 x1

 

[dennisdarrow]

Went out to my tractor barn.....thought so when I read that you are using Rotella 10-40 T oil in a gasoline engine.........SPECIFICALLY SAYS:.....DIESEL SERVICE......

For me, I buy several types of oil for the various engines we run on the place........Diesel spec oil doesn't go in my air cooled engines let alone my BMW motorcycle........

Some guys on forums recommend for their chain saw bar/chains to chop up a candle and mix it with regular used motor oil ...........for me though, I use what is recommended..........

 

[toooldtocare]

Sounds like you are on the way to a good rebuild, but do not confuse the "blow-by" you see when you pull the oil filler while the engine is running. This is a simple two cylinder engine, both pistons move out every 180 degrees of crank rotation, and move back in during the other 180 degrees of rotation. Because of this the volume of the crank case changes 1 liter every 180 degrees. Thus every 360 degrees you are forcing 1 liter of air out that 1 inch hole, and sucking it back in. If the engine is running at 1,000 rpms, that is a lot of air and will make quite a big mess.

 

[3qtrtym]

1994-R100R-0280849-Airhead-R100R

Sounds like you are on the way to a good rebuild, but do not confuse the "blow-by" you see when you pull the oil filler while the engine is running. This is a simple two cylinder engine, both pistons move out every 180 degrees of crank rotation, and move back in during the other 180 degrees of rotation. Because of this the volume of the crank case changes 1 liter every 180 degrees. Thus every 360 degrees you are forcing 1 liter of air out that 1 inch hole, and sucking it back in. If the engine is running at 1,000 rpms, that is a lot of air and will make quite a big mess.

Tooldtocare
Thank you - your explanation is a simple eye opener for me - of why all the "blow-by" - it's good to learn something new everyday, I thank you. Now I know why the dipstick has so many threads.

 

[SCBuckeye]

I tried the various oils, and finally settled on Lucas 20w-50 semi-synthetic. Seems closest to original and still has the advantages of the synthetics. Now, down here in the very HOT South Carolina (last week: 92-98 degrees everyday), I would now never run anything less than 50w in hot summer, and never anything less than 40w inspring or fall.

However, Kurt on here is a bona-fide expert on all this oil stuff (he doesn't act like it because he is genuinely humble about it), and you should take his word very highly.

I had tried Mobil 1, 10w40 and did find some 20w50, but it seemed like it went through the bike like crazy. I think it was too thin for these old airheads. However that stopped when I switched to Lucas 20w50 semi-synthetic, and they also make a 20w50 full synthetic. I like the semi best.

 

[mysteriousfish]

Hello,
Regarding a BMW 1994 R00R #0280849 Airhead

Where in Seattle can I get the some machine work related to this BMW motorcycle?

]

regarding specialty airhead shops, Steve Prokop in Dundee, Oregon, 503-538-8120, is our local guru. would be closer than Ted Porter in CA, but that is still a ways from Seattle. good luck

 

[manitou_commando]

No mention is made to the routine service made to the engine.

Have the valve clearances been adjusted?
If valve tolerances are too great, they can make quite a racket.

 

[3qtrtym]

1994-R00R-0280849-Airhead-R100R

No mention is made to the routine service made to the engine.

Have the valve clearances been adjusted?
If valve tolerances are too great, they can make quite a racket.

Hi,
Yes adjusted valves- since posted - discovered that followers and cam pitted up - going to replace and get back on the road.
Thank you,
Kerry

 

[3qtrtym]

1994 R100R #0280849 Airhead

regarding specialty airhead shops, Steve Prokop in Dundee, Oregon, 503-538-8120, is our local guru. would be closer than Ted Porter in CA, but that is still a ways from Seattle. good luck

Rick,
Thank you - Love the city of Dundee - I'm Sommelier in Seattle - I think see a road trip
Kerry

 

[Darryl Cainey]

I have some good used lifters.