1990 K75RT Coolant Again

[beemerboy]

Well the task for which I removed my side covers has now arrived- flushing and filling the coolant.

I have searched the net for the "right" coolant. Got as many answers as posters. Most say that it has to be non-silicate, non-amine, non-borate, non-phosphate, non-vodka, non-drain cleaner, etc. Some claim that any long-life anti freeze is fine. I went to my local Napa looking for the "nons" on the label. Very few have any of these qualities listed. One German made brand listed them all but was $75 a gallon. Methinks not. Probably German made Dexcool.

One I hadn't noticed before had all the "nons", too. So I snagged it for a paltry $15. Once I opened it it was orange. Looks like Dexcool. Read lots of bad things about it but have noticed that pretty much all major car manufacturers use it now.

I really am not opposed to using the Beemer Brand apart from if the need should arise to top it up on a trip it would be hard to locate in a place like Toadstool, Saskatchewan.


Question: have any of you actually used Dexcool in your Beemer? Did it have any problems? Was it clean and trouble free after 300,000 miles? Yes, I know that the old swill has to be flushed and that one should use only de-ionized water. But what has been your first hand experience? I await your insights with bated breath.

beemerboy

 

[Paul_F]

Never tried Dexcool, but I have ridden cross country with my K100, experiencing temps exceeding 100F with no problems, using the stuff sold by the local BMW car shop. I had no need for topping up on any of the trips. If I did run low on coolant, I'd simply go to a local bimmer shop and ask for a top up.

 

[beemerboy]

Thanks, Paul.
It is probably an unlikely event but if it happens I don't think there is a Beemer shop in Toadstool ; ) I will likely drive into town and try to locate it.
BB

 

[Paul_F]

I figure that there are more BMW car dealerships than BMW bike shops.

However, since the tail section of the bike is so large, why not take a small bottle of the stuff, pre-mixed, with you and then you have what you need? The odd time that I top mine up (at home in the garage), it takes so little, that you could most likely have the extra coolant with you. Commercial water bottles seem to hold liquids without spillage. Just a suggestion.

Cheers!

 

[98lee]

BB,


Please try to remember to include the year and model of your bike in the TITLE of your thread. I will add this to this thread for you this time, after I go back and find your other thread to find what bike you own.

Coolant threads will be like oil threads. BMW specifies the qualities that the want in a coolant. These are mainly to be compatible with the metallurgy of the BMW engine and radiator. A lot of coolants available in the early '80s were only appropriate for iron blocks and brass radiators. Today, aluminum engines are much more prevalent and the availability of coolants designed for the needs of these engines is more common.

 

[beemerboy]

Hello, Lee.
I agree that if you get 10 people you'll get 15 opinions. That is what I was asking for first hand experience. I talked to a friend today who runs Dex in his 88 VW Vanagon. Older aluminum engine. Never had an issue with it. That's why I want to sort out the urban myth from reality.

The dex lists all the qualities the A/F should have. Most manufacturers are using it today. I suspect that the BMW stuff may be Dex with a blue dye since it lists the same specs. Blessings.

BB

 

[tinytrains]

I have read a lot about Dexcool since it is in my Silverado. Dex works fine as long as you do not get air in the system. If the system gets low, and air gets in the system (at least on iron block engines) it will start to gum up and cause all kinds of problems. Keep it full and it works fine. The older Dex could not be mixed AT ALL with green coolant or it turned to jello. New stuff is supposed be OK to mix, but I would not experiment.

As for my K75, it has run 25 years on plain old green Prestone and is still clean as a whistle inside.

 

[98lee]

As for my K75, it has run 25 years on plain old green Prestone and is still clean as a whistle inside.

I also have been using the standard green Prestone that has been listed for all engine materials. But I've only got 135,000 miles on it so far, so we'll have to see what it looks like once I get some REAL miles on it. Distilled water!

 

[beemerboy]

Having done some more reading on Dex from industry sources, I think I'll use green and give the Dex I bought to my buddy to use in his VW van. The owners manual just says to use a long life coolant with corrosion inhibitors. Sounds like green to me.

It seems Dex is good under specific conditions but if it degrades for various reasons, it can turn acidic and cause damage. Plastics seem to be susceptible to it. All in all I don't think it's worth the risk.

BB

 

[Paul_F]

I got lazy and left the BMW coolant in for four years. Even though it tested fine, I replaced the four year old coolant last summer. One BMW mechanic told me that company no longer recommends that it be changed every two years.

 

[beemerboy]

Hi, Paul.
That is one of my fears with the Dexcool. I have a habit of putting things off. With Dex that's dangerous. It seems that if it gets old it gets acidic. As for changing it I guess that it's not likely to break the bank to change it every two years given the small amounts involved. All the best.
BB

 

[dieselyoda]

Oil, coolant, gas, these get a little tiresome.

As a Service Manager for a very large HD Equipment company, my answer is any coolant is good enough. I have not ever seen any data relating to an engine failure blaming either the coolant, the c/c oil, the fuel. Yes, coolant system failure, lubricating system failure, fuel contamination and the list goes on.

I've been doing this a long time but I won't use Dexcool in anything I own.

 

[ESouder]

What about the top off

I never saw a response about the top off. I have the BMW blue stuff in my 92 K75 and it needs a top off. A visit to a dealer or a complete change out not in the mix. If I add the green stuff to the blue stuff, will my custom aqua marine stuff create issues? Or will a little distilled water keep me moving?

Thanks all,

Eric

Well the task for which I removed my side covers has now arrived- flushing and filling the coolant.

I have searched the net for the "right" coolant. Got as many answers as posters. Most say that it has to be non-silicate, non-amine, non-borate, non-phosphate, non-vodka, non-drain cleaner, etc. Some claim that any long-life anti freeze is fine. I went to my local Napa looking for the "nons" on the label. Very few have any of these qualities listed. One German made brand listed them all but was $75 a gallon. Methinks not. Probably German made Dexcool.

One I hadn't noticed before had all the "nons", too. So I snagged it for a paltry $15. Once I opened it it was orange. Looks like Dexcool. Read lots of bad things about it but have noticed that pretty much all major car manufacturers use it now.

I really am not opposed to using the Beemer Brand apart from if the need should arise to top it up on a trip it would be hard to locate in a place like Toadstool, Saskatchewan.


Question: have any of you actually used Dexcool in your Beemer? Did it have any problems? Was it clean and trouble free after 300,000 miles? Yes, I know that the old swill has to be flushed and that one should use only de-ionized water. But what has been your first hand experience? I await your insights with bated breath.

beemerboy

 

[98lee]

I never saw a response about the top off. I have the BMW blue stuff in my 92 K75 and it needs a top off. A visit to a dealer or a complete change out not in the mix. If I add the green stuff to the blue stuff, will my custom aqua marine stuff create issues? Or will a little distilled water keep me moving?

Thanks all,

Eric

A LITTLE distilled water would be fine. Too much (depending on your climate) will affect your freeze protection.

I would be cautious about mixing coolants without recomendation from the coolant manufacturer.