How many things can I connect on the GPS 12v line?

So far, I have my GPS (Zumo 350LM) and a USB connector to charge my smartphone connected to the GPS 12v line in front of the bike.

Everything works with no issues.

I'm in the process of adding a TPMS monitor to the bike and the ideal place to connect it would be on this same line. (It will be mounted just under my GPS)

I'm not expecting any issues but maybe someone with more experience and knowledge might point out something that I did not forsee.

I'm guessing that if there's too much power draw from the line, the can-bus will simply shut it off.

Dann said:

I'm guessing that if there's too much power draw from the line, the can-bus will simply shut it off.

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I think you answered your question. You are talking micro amps on the items attached.
If it trips, another nearby source is one of the parking lights in the headlight assy which are not tied into the CANBUS. Good for relay triggering and very small loads.

If you are looking at a move to a relay system, this Best of Forum may interest you-
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?56217-12V-Power-Distribution
OM

You should be fine. The power to the GPS plug is parallel to the auxiliary power outlet - so it's good for at least 5A current draw (some models were 10A.) If you're connecting up a lot of electrical farkles - a FuzeBlock would be a good investment. Makes things centralized, off the CANBUS and easy to make switched or non-switched (always on) power.

Thanks for your answers

The aux socket on my 07 is 10A.

It should be more than enough for this

I still think that 10A is not enough for an aux socket. (and if the bike has a rear one, that means 5A each...)
One set of heated liner and pants alone are 10A

It's impossible to use it for a full heated gear kit. (and I'm not even counting that your pillion could have one also)

IMHO the aux socket should be something like 30A to be really useful.

My rear socket was dealer added and is wired to the fuze block so it can go to 20A. You can also straight to the battery and be limited only to wire and fuse size.

Either way can make it hot all the time and good for battery charging.

You should get away from wiring more than one accessory (like your GPS) into that connector - that's all it was designed to run. I don't even have my GPS wired into it. Get a good distribution system (FuzeBlock, Eastern Beaver, Cycle Terminal), and put it under the seat. Wire each accessory with its own fuse. You can use the GPS connector, powerlet, or headlight to trigger the relay that powers all your accessories. This is the safest and simplest way, and gives you room to add the next farkle without taxing that tiny little wire even more.

dunc723 said:

You should get away from wiring more than one accessory (like your GPS) into that connector - that's all it was designed to run. I don't even have my GPS wired into it. Get a good distribution system (FuzeBlock, Eastern Beaver, Cycle Terminal), and put it under the seat. Wire each accessory with its own fuse. You can use the GPS connector, powerlet, or headlight to trigger the relay that powers all your accessories. This is the safest and simplest way, and gives you room to add the next farkle without taxing that tiny little wire even more.

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I was thinking about it but nothing that is connected to this line draws a lot of power and they all have their own fuses built in each cable.
My heated gear coax and my battery charger SAE pigtail are connected directly to the battery.
If I need to add anything more, I will get a distribution system for sure.

Dann said:

I was thinking about it but nothing that is connected to this line draws a lot of power and they all have their own fuses built in each cable.
My heated gear coax and my battery charger SAE pigtail are connected directly to the battery.
If I need to add anything more, I will get a distribution system for sure.

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The more connections you add to the battery, the more tenuous those get as well. I had my GPS, phone charger, and aux lights connected to a 3-point fuse block, which was connected to the battery along with the SAE charger terminal. Then I added one heated gear connector as the third connector to the battery, and expect to add another one before next winter. Too many battery connections, and each time you add something you have to disconnect the battery. Last week I stripped everything out and put in an Eastern Beaver PC-8, which has six switched connections and two unswitched connections (battery charger goes to the unswitched connection). FuzeBlock does the same thing but allows you to choose switched or unswitched for each accessory just by moving the fuse, but Eastern Beaver is lower cost.

Thought I'd chime and put in my 2 cents, and that's the inflated value.
I'm riding a 2013 1200 GSA oil head and it came with the BMW Nav IV mount connected to the can-bus but I replaced with the Garmin 590 LM, I also added two Powerlets on the front and topped it off with a coax connector for heated gear mounted on the side next to the factory 5amp Powerlet. I started with fused connections to the battery but I've never liked connecting more than one extra line there so I purchased a PDM 60 that is a solid state programmable distribution module that is programmed with your PC. I got it programmed and installed under the battery riser block by cutting out some of the molded plastic and it was a clean install. But I'm really a Mac guy and didn't want to keep that last PC around just to occasionally program the PDM 60. That's when I found this: http://www.arborealsystems.com/Arboreal_Systems/Neutrino_intro.html
It's a 60 amp solid state distribution module with 6 programmable circuits programmed by my iPhone through a bluetooth connection. It still fit under the battery and has a through connection for connecting a battery tender.
Here's how I have mine set up:
Powerlets - 10amps hot all the time
Garmin - 3 amp stays on for 15 minutes after ignition off - this way I can get gas, make a pit stop, whatever and not have to restart my GPS.
Coax for heated gear - This one is awesome. I have it set to come on at 75% power at a specific temp or I can control it from my iPhone on the Ram Mount. No need for a bulky controller. I just plug my vest right into the coax jack.
J&M CB - 5 amp switched to turn off with ignition

I just installed the J&M and when I did I attached wires to the 2 remaining circuits and have them turned off and taped, ready for anything else I want to connect.
The ground wires are connected together with eyelet connectors and a small bolt then taped.
I always solder rather than crimp connection and use shrink tubing where I can. I have a Dymo shrink tube label maker and can easily identify each circuit.
I've called them a couple times and sent emails too with questions. They picked up the phone when I call and promptly answer emails. On a phone call with Dan, the owner, I suggested that the temp controlled circuit would really be awesome if it could have a high and low temp setting and the power to the heated heated gear would vary with the temp. He said they are working on that one.

Here's their video: http://www.arborealsystems.com/Arboreal_Systems/Video_Intro.html

2wheeledfaith said:

That's when I found this: http://www.arborealsystems.com/Arboreal_Systems/Neutrino_intro.html
It's a 60 amp solid state distribution module with 6 programmable circuits programmed by my iPhone through a bluetooth connection. It still fit under the battery and has a through connection for connecting a battery tender.

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Really, really nice... just a little pricey.

dunc723 said:

Really, really nice... just a little pricey.

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At $300 it's definitely more than any of the other fuseboxes and even the PDM 60 which is now $200 at Revzilla. But if you are using it for lights or heated clothing and start adding the cost of switches and controllers, it just may me a good option for some. I exchanged some emails with Dan this morning and they have some cool features in the pipeline in the app release coming in the next month or so.