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'77 r100, speedo works, odometer does not
- Thread starter Gpr100rs
- Start date
Sounds like the classic issue with the wheels slipping on the odometer shaft. You could probably fix it yourself if you want to take a shot. The link in my signature line takes you to some resources and other links. In the speedometer section is a pictorial for getting at those odometer wheels and gluing them back into place. It was for an '78 R100/7 but the only real difference is that you have a cable to drive the tach instead of the '78s electronic tach.
dennisdarrow
#4869 Earned Lifetime mem
Kurt.......I think you mean speedo???????
happy wanderer
Day Dreaming ...
These instruments are getting old and rare so I don't attempt repairs anymore. My RS speedo/odo went on the fritz and I took it to Terry Vrla in Hillsboro OR. He's an airhead guy and does cost effective repairs and maintenance of BMW instruments. The thing is when you do this type of work all the time you get very good at it and see things that others don't. Terry not only repaired my speedo he went over the entire unit adjusting and lubing everything that needed it. He uses different lubes on different parts because years of experience have taught him what works best where and how to prevent future problems before they happen.
Well worth it IMO!
Terry Vrla
776 se 3rd ave
Hillsboro,Oregon
97123
Home: 503 421 5782
Email: terryvrla@hotmail.com
Well worth it IMO!
Terry Vrla
776 se 3rd ave
Hillsboro,Oregon
97123
Home: 503 421 5782
Email: terryvrla@hotmail.com
Dennis -
Unless I've got it all wrong, the '77 speedometer has two cables run to the back of the pod - one for tachometer and one for speedometer. For the '78, there's only one cable - for speedometer. What am I'm missing?
dennisdarrow
#4869 Earned Lifetime mem
Kurt, the way I read your comment above is that the problem is with an instrument that has a cable driving the tach while you are discussing about gluing the wheels of the odometer in the speedo back together.......thought perhaps that you had said tach instead of speedo and made a simple mistake in wording.............NOT CRITICISM AND JUST TRYING TO BE HELPFUL.......Gollly fella, excuse me for even reading.........This place surely is getting NO FUN to even participate.........EXCUSE ME SIR
Dennis -
Sorry if my posting was confusing. In some cases I was referring to speedometer as being the entire pod (housing the speedometer and tachometer) and in some cases I might have been referring to the speedometer side of the pod. I wanted the OP to understand that the link for diving into the pod to fix the odometer wheels is for a '78 R100/7 unit whereas the OP has a '77 R100...thus there will be some differences in what he sees on his bench. However, the odometer issue is the same for either year. That's all I was trying to get at.
Sorry if my posting was confusing. In some cases I was referring to speedometer as being the entire pod (housing the speedometer and tachometer) and in some cases I might have been referring to the speedometer side of the pod. I wanted the OP to understand that the link for diving into the pod to fix the odometer wheels is for a '78 R100/7 unit whereas the OP has a '77 R100...thus there will be some differences in what he sees on his bench. However, the odometer issue is the same for either year. That's all I was trying to get at.
Replies appreciated
Sounds like best course is to have my local air head guru take a look-- I know my limits. Kurt, your responses were well reasoned, I certainly did not interpret any sarcasm, etc. That's the kind of banter that makes a forum interesting. I think Terry also makes a great point, while the air heads are simple, it takes talent and experience to keep them running right and safe-- which is precisely what I think about when I am in heavy freeway traffic going 75 mph just to keep up! While a bum odometer doesn't pose a safety risk, I do value my sanity, which might take a big hit when I have the odo gears, etc. strewn across my work bench. The responses prodded me to schedule a service appointment; I've got a couple electric gremlins for my guy to work out also. Cheers!
Sounds like best course is to have my local air head guru take a look-- I know my limits. Kurt, your responses were well reasoned, I certainly did not interpret any sarcasm, etc. That's the kind of banter that makes a forum interesting. I think Terry also makes a great point, while the air heads are simple, it takes talent and experience to keep them running right and safe-- which is precisely what I think about when I am in heavy freeway traffic going 75 mph just to keep up! While a bum odometer doesn't pose a safety risk, I do value my sanity, which might take a big hit when I have the odo gears, etc. strewn across my work bench. The responses prodded me to schedule a service appointment; I've got a couple electric gremlins for my guy to work out also. Cheers!
Sounds like a prudent decision. Note that you don't really take things completely apart. You're just gaining access to where you can see the gears still on the shaft. Then you carefully back them up together and place a spot of glue as per the diagrams.
Might as well get everything taken care of on your visit.
Might as well get everything taken care of on your visit.
I had my 1976 R75/6 unit apart a couple of years ago. If I recall correctly, there is a gear that is on a "pivot" shaft that drives the odometer. I think mine had come lose and I loosened the set screw, rotated the shaft and reengaged the gear. Somewhere in my mess of pictures, I have a bunch of that teardown. I also have a spare unit set aside that is still apart and could take photos of that if it would help. First, I guess someone would have to confirm that the OP and I have substantially the same unit?
MonoRT
MonoRT
If you have experienced help, the glue method should work just fine. I (apparently) should not be allowed to use glue and could not achieve a lasting repair job. Perhaps the JB-Weld that I chose did not adhere well to the plastic gear? Or I did a poor prep job.
I gave up and sent my unit to Palo Alto Speedometer. A bit pricy, but way cheaper than a new speedo/odo unit. They cleaned and lubed everything and installed a pair of jam nuts - one on either side of the slipping drive gear. That seems to make a good mechanical lock between the gear and shaft. They also re-calibrated the speedometer. I checked against GPS - spot on.
I gave up and sent my unit to Palo Alto Speedometer. A bit pricy, but way cheaper than a new speedo/odo unit. They cleaned and lubed everything and installed a pair of jam nuts - one on either side of the slipping drive gear. That seems to make a good mechanical lock between the gear and shaft. They also re-calibrated the speedometer. I checked against GPS - spot on.
PAS
New member
MonoRT: Cost? They did my clock refurb and did a great job. Thx.
MonoRT
MonoRT
I wish I had saved the paperwork. They will give estimates over the phone. A number somewhere in the vicinity of $200 is rattling around in my ruined brain. For a gear fix alone, that might seem pricy, but they also cleaned, lubed and calibrated everything and that fix with the jam nuts looks pretty permanent to me, so I was OK with the price.
I've got a quartz Motometer clock with some sort of plastic coating INSIDE the lens which has delaminated, making the clock difficult to read. I may sent them my clock next...
I've got a quartz Motometer clock with some sort of plastic coating INSIDE the lens which has delaminated, making the clock difficult to read. I may sent them my clock next...
'78 r100/7
I removed mine from my '78 R100/7 and did my own repairing when my trip meter wouldn't work properly. Pretty much everything is mechanical except where either a gear is pressed on a shaft, or where side spring pressure is used to provide enough friction to drive wheel.
It doesn't hurt to try as virtually nothing will fall out unless broken.
Mine worked fine after that.
I removed mine from my '78 R100/7 and did my own repairing when my trip meter wouldn't work properly. Pretty much everything is mechanical except where either a gear is pressed on a shaft, or where side spring pressure is used to provide enough friction to drive wheel.
It doesn't hurt to try as virtually nothing will fall out unless broken.
Mine worked fine after that.
winsur4
New member
Odometer problem plus missing 1 lens and lens rubbers
My recent purchase, an R50/2 converted to 12v with an R100/7 engine has an odometer problem and is missing a lens and both rubbers. Do the mentioned repair shops have lenses and rubber replacement? I see Austin has a shop for BMW speedo repair. Does anyone have experience them?
My recent purchase, an R50/2 converted to 12v with an R100/7 engine has an odometer problem and is missing a lens and both rubbers. Do the mentioned repair shops have lenses and rubber replacement? I see Austin has a shop for BMW speedo repair. Does anyone have experience them?
ccolwell
Member
Ditto.
Took my own apart a few years ago, when odometer (trip meter only) worked only intermittently and found that the "drums" that push against each other and produce enough friction to drive the next wheel had gotten loose enough to quit driving. I added a little extra pressure using a spring from a ball point pen, and it has worked flawlessly ever since.
Mine was on a '78 R100/7
Mine was on a '78 R100/7
winsur4
New member
Odometer problem plus missing 1 lens and lens rubbers
My recent purchase, an R50/2 converted to 12v with an R100/7 engine has an odometer problem and is missing a lens and both rubbers. Do the mentioned repair shops have lenses and rubber replacement? I see Austin has a shop for BMW speedo repair. Does anyone have experience them?
My recent purchase, an R50/2 converted to 12v with an R100/7 engine has an odometer problem and is missing a lens and both rubbers. Do the mentioned repair shops have lenses and rubber replacement? I see Austin has a shop for BMW speedo repair. Does anyone have experience them?
