Advice on spline lube, clutch, and rear main seal at 60K miles?

I recently purchased a 1997 R1100RS. Unknown service history, though it appears to have been well cared for. Currently shows 60K miles. I am planning a big road trip this summer, and am planning on doing a number of maintenance items before then myself. One big one on the list is attempting a spline lube, simply because the lube history is unknown.

I chatted with a local shop and they advised that if I attempt a spline lube on an unknown history bike with 60K miles, I should consider doing a clutch and rear main seal at the same time. They quoted about 6 hours for the lube job, and 8 hours for lube, rear main seal, and clutch. The thing that really got me though was the cost of the clutch hardware itself; $800!

I'd like to get some opinions about how sound their advice is. 60K sounds like a short lifetime for a clutch to me. However, I also see the value in doing everything while you're in there for the lube. But another $800 in hardware is quite a bit!

Advice or opinions?

The clutch on my '98 R1100RT went at 116,000 miles. I am the third owner. I bought the bike at 70,000 miles and received none of the previous maintenance records. I have a hunch that the clutch failed earlier than average. Others with greater history with Oilheads will weigh in with their experiences.

I would consider 60K miles very low miles for a clutch unless it has become contaminated with lubricants or clutch hydraulic fluid. My approach would be to remove the transmission to lubricate the splines. Then a careful examination. Any sign of seepage would indicate getting new seals. A visual inspection and/or thickness measurement of the clutch disk would indicate the need (or not) for replacing clutch parts.

PGlaves said:

I would consider 60K miles very low miles for a clutch unless it has become contaminated with lubricants or clutch hydraulic fluid. My approach would be to remove the transmission to lubricate the splines. Then a careful examination. Any sign of seepage would indicate getting new seals. A visual inspection and/or thickness measurement of the clutch disk would indicate the need (or not) for replacing clutch parts.

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That sounds like a reasonable plan. A few more questions:

1. I am reasonably experience mechanically. What are the thoughts of attempting the spline lube myself? I don't have a motorcycle lift. If I got in for the lube and discovered it needed a clutch and/or rear main seal, could I do those myself easily?

2. $800 seems to be the cost for an entire clutch pack. Could I consider just the slip disk replacement if it was worn, or are they supposed to go in and out as sets?

I just did the clutch on my 95 r1100rsl that turned over at 42k 2nd owner which took about 8 hrs to do. The complete clutch kit cost me about $600. The person that I bought the bike from lived in Seattle so I assume the clutch was slipped many times at lights on hills which I'm sure contributed towards the burnt clutch.

drj434343 said:

1. I am reasonably experience mechanically. What are the thoughts of attempting the spline lube myself? I don't have a motorcycle lift. If I got in for the lube and discovered it needed a clutch and/or rear main seal, could I do those myself easily?

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Plan on doubling the shops times for your first trip through. It isn't a bad job, but time consuming and will require a few tools you may not have. Not having a lift isn't a major problem as long as you can sit on a creeper with a gearbox in your lap. (even in a trashed garage with multiple "projects" in the way) Tie the front wheel to the centerstand to prevent an unwanted bellyflop.

I did my first lube last winter. If you have mechanical skills, and some patience you will be fine. I found the hardest part was the pain in my back and knees crawling on the garage floor. Other then torque wrenches, I recall only 2 special tools. A torque angle gauge if removing the clutch housing. (to access the main seal, and a special socket with a cutout for an allen key to torque the inside pin at the rear drive. (in expense from an online site in the UK) You will also find lots of answers here and in the archives if needed. Personally, I don't see how its possible to own a BMW and not become a mechanic.

Paint marks

Hello I just installed my new clutch assembly and spacer to provide full engagement of the splines I didn't notice paint marks but the BMW service manual states to make sure the paint marks on the clutch housing and pressure plate are 120? out anybody have any comments on this the parts look symmetrical

dagear said:

Hello I just installed my new clutch assembly and spacer to provide full engagement of the splines I didn't notice paint marks but the BMW service manual states to make sure the paint marks on the clutch housing and pressure plate are 120? out anybody have any comments on this the parts look symmetrical

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Oh my. It is best to mark the components as they are taken off so they can go back the same way. However, with very careful examination it is usually possible to find the faint white or tan colored splotches BMW uses to mark the light or heavy (I forget which) spot on each component.

It is probably worth the effort to take it apart again and search diligently for those marks. If the heavy spots get stacked all together there could be a distinct vibration, even to the point of damaging the transmission input shaft bearing over time.

Unless - these are all new components, of which I have been told there are no marks and each piece is sufficiently balanced so as not to matter.

Paint Marks

Thanks Paul. The pressure plate, housing cover and clutch were new, clutch housing is original. The housing cover has a white paint mark and I assume the pressure plate does as well.

I already decided to take apart again. I will sleep better.

Paint marks & Lubrication points

I can't get all 3 paint marks at 120, cover and pressure plate 120 then cover 180 from flywheel. Position the flywheel 180 from the housing because the housing cover has more mass

Service manual states to lubricate were the spring touches the clutch housing and where the pressure plate touches the spring. Does anyone lube these points I've watched several videos and no we mentions lubricating these points

dagear said:

I can't get all 3 paint marks at 120, cover and pressure plate 120 then cover 180 from flywheel. Position the flywheel 180 from the housing because the housing cover has more mass

Service manual states to lubricate were the spring touches the clutch housing and where the pressure plate touches the spring. Does anyone lube these points I've watched several videos and no we mentions lubricating these points

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Yes - I lightly grease these locations. I use the same moly grease I use on the splines. Just a light smear on the circumference of the spring and on each of the pressure plate lugs that contact the spring.

Shaft Alignment & Felt Ring

Got the transmission remounted last night, little stubborn but finally mated up. Some followup questions

1. I didn't use any guide pins just floor cribbing and manual lift for last 1/4". Do the guide pins help with shaft alignment to avoid more wear?
2. I got the paint marks to line up at 12, 3 & 6, between the housing cover, pressure plate and flywheel, no way I could get them 120 degrees apart given their location on the respective parts.
3. Lastly the felt ring on the clutch pursh rod is flat, I got a new one but the ID is not the same as the old one. Is there an installation procedure to install the new felt ring?