gsaddict
Pepperfool
\Talk amongst yourselves. I will check back later.
Please don't bother
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
\Talk amongst yourselves. I will check back later.
\
Please don't bother
When in failure mode the brake light comes on when the front brake is applied. I haven't changed the bulb but did clean the contact of the bulb and checked for corrosion in the socket. I will replace bulb.
The battery checks at 12.80 volts with key off drops to lower 12s when key is on lower 13s running. there is no drop of amperage when in the fail mode.
Will try the master reset. I will assume the bike needs to be running? does it need to be in the fail mode or can this be done any time?
Thanks for the reply.
Rick
I understand a lot of ABS units from this era would go into default because of low battery voltage. I might give some thought to putting in a newer and better battery (Oddessy) before getting carried away to far on other things. 12.80 volts key on and low 13's tells me it might be a low battery voltage thing. The ABS computers on these bikes are pretty tough so I would be surprised if its that. Oh and visually check your front brake switch on the M/C and make sure you don't have a leaky M/C that's messing up the switch, then check bulbs. I would put my money on a weak battery.
Hi Rick,
Look the rubber lines over from end to end, others have seen bulges. If the line bulges under pressure as the fluid warms, that could trigger a fault.
RB
those lines can rupture internally, and may give no outward sign of failure whatsoever. that's what happened with my buddies. eventually, they began leaking, but he'd already had the shop replace the ABS pump, to no direct benefit.
those lines were "adequate" when new, and only deteriorate and degrade with age.
Just replace them. They're not real costly (full set is maybe $200), doing so will improve brake feel and performance, and they are pretty much a lifetime upgrade. Might even solve the OP's brake issue.
Thanks Roger and Bikerfish for your comments.
The rubber lines MUST be replaced before proceeding to troubleshoot other issues.
Safety first, failures can happen even when the machine is off
One client of mine was almost crushed unloading his bike off a pickup truck when the front master line bulged and the lever went to the handgrip.
Really, can someone tell us how to pull codes from an 1150?
Is there any reason to search out someone other than Spiegler to buy the lines from?