jchildress
New member
I am reassembling the driveshaft/swingarm/final drive on a 96 R1100R following a driveshaft failure. I have the JL Paralever bushings (previously installed) instead of the needle bearings on the final-drive pivot point.
I need help with a few questions:
1) When assembling the two left-side pivot pins, the Clymer manual indicates that you need to use a special BMW tool or torque converter (neither of which I have or could find easily & cheaply) on the 30mm locknut, in order to be able to hold the adjust pivot pins stationary while torquing the locknut. However some online procedures say that is not necessary, that you can let the red loctite harden first on the adjust pin, before torquing the locknut. The latter sounds very reasonable - any opinions ?
2) Should I use red loctite on the 2 locknuts as well ? Clymer seems to say no, but some online posts say yes...
3) Clymer says use Kluberplex BEM 34-132 (which I have) on the transmission output shaft and front driveshaft splines, and Permatex anti-seize (which I also have) on the final drive/rear drive shaft splines assembly. However many posts seems to advocate Honda Moly 60 (which I also have) on everything ! I'm confused about what is truly best.... ?? Right now I am planning to do as Clymer indicates. I am planning to use Moly 60 only on the JL paralever bushings....
4) Do I need to lubricate the universal joint bearings ? I realize they are sealed...but there seems to be lube on them right now...
5) Same question for the swingarm pivot bearings ?
6) Do I need to lubricate the 2 bushings that the torque link arm attaches to ?
7) Generally - where do I need to make sure I lubricate during this entire reassembly ?
8) Generally - where do I need to make sure I apply blue/red loctite during this entire reassembly ?
I need help with a few questions:
1) When assembling the two left-side pivot pins, the Clymer manual indicates that you need to use a special BMW tool or torque converter (neither of which I have or could find easily & cheaply) on the 30mm locknut, in order to be able to hold the adjust pivot pins stationary while torquing the locknut. However some online procedures say that is not necessary, that you can let the red loctite harden first on the adjust pin, before torquing the locknut. The latter sounds very reasonable - any opinions ?
2) Should I use red loctite on the 2 locknuts as well ? Clymer seems to say no, but some online posts say yes...
3) Clymer says use Kluberplex BEM 34-132 (which I have) on the transmission output shaft and front driveshaft splines, and Permatex anti-seize (which I also have) on the final drive/rear drive shaft splines assembly. However many posts seems to advocate Honda Moly 60 (which I also have) on everything ! I'm confused about what is truly best.... ?? Right now I am planning to do as Clymer indicates. I am planning to use Moly 60 only on the JL paralever bushings....
4) Do I need to lubricate the universal joint bearings ? I realize they are sealed...but there seems to be lube on them right now...
5) Same question for the swingarm pivot bearings ?
6) Do I need to lubricate the 2 bushings that the torque link arm attaches to ?
7) Generally - where do I need to make sure I lubricate during this entire reassembly ?
8) Generally - where do I need to make sure I apply blue/red loctite during this entire reassembly ?