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The 1150 sidestand switch kills the Motronic (if also in gear), so the engine will crank but will not fire. Squeezing the clutch won't override that, either.
I just bought a 1997 R1100 GS,the first day every thing was fine.Turn the key to on,the green neutral came on then start it up.Now when I turn it on the green neutral light does not come on and it will not start unless you pull in the clutch, I have checked the fuses????
The cranking but not starting "feature" of the 1150 is annoying.
The cranking but not starting "feature" of the 1150 is annoying. It could be fixed by wiring the input to the start button to the output of the Motronic relay. Since the bike won't start unless the Motronic is on, there's no point to letting it crank unless the Motronic is on.Except when the plugs are out and you are doing a compression test! Coil is not energized
The other annoying feature is that the low beam light comes on and drains the battery a bit until you press the start button which then drops out the load relay. I'd rather that the headlights didn't come on until the bike was running. That could be fixed but it would take another relay energized by D+ from the alternator.YES! Very annoying! One day I might even do that mod! My HID's strike twice every startup which shortens their life by 50%
YES! Very annoying! One day I might even do that mod! My HID's strike twice every startup which shortens their life by 50%
The other annoying feature is that the low beam light comes on and drains the battery a bit until you press the start button which then drops out the load relay. I'd rather that the headlights didn't come on until the bike was running. That could be fixed but it would take another relay energized by D+ from the alternator.
So I think the way that might be done is to add a relay whose contacts were wired in series with the load relief relay's +12V in (or +12V out, don't think it matters).
Then take one side of the relay's pull in coil and ground it. Take the other side and wire it through a 1 Watt 30 ohm resistor (or two half watt 56 ohm resistors in parallel) to Alternator D+, and put a 10,000 microfarad capacitor across the pull in coil. That, I think, would mean that the coil (assuming a 90 ohm relay coil) would pull in about a second after the alternator came online.
Only three parts but a little bit of effort to wire up.
RB