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The perennial question: R100 new alternator system - Omega or Enduralast (or other)?

89012

New member
Hello,

I found an older thread about this perennial question. I am in the process of bringing back to life my old 1991 R100. I had several electrical issues on my two long trips I did back when I had more hair and 20 lbs less, i.e., 20 years ago. I went through 2 diode boards, 2 rotors and one regulator and had the opportunity to break down in very exotic locations around Europe and the U.S. Having enjoyed this unplanned stops, I decided to put the R100 at the very end of the garage for 14 years. Now I am in the process of falling in love again with the thing and see if this renewed marriage can get a second chance. I just want to be sure that these electric issues won't happen again. As part of my plan to restore the bike I want to redo the entire electrical system, new wire harness and new alternator/diode board/regulator. In light of the different options in the market, I believe the Omega and Enduralast are probably the best two options.

Any one care to share some knowledge and experience regarding these two systems (or any other for that matter)?

Thank you!!!

Jorge Muñoz

PS: I am sharing a couple of pics of the bike from those trips so you can see that it ran at some point...
 

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Welcome to the forum! Snowbum has an extensive page comparing various alternator systems here:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/aftrmrktalt.htm

Anton has an overview of charging systems here:

http://www.largiader.com/articles/charging/

It's been a while since I thought about these systems...the stock system has worked well for me on my older machine. There were/are issues with compatibility with the ignition system. So, that might be something worth considering in the choice.
 
Hello,

I found an older thread about this perennial question. I am in the process of bringing back to life my old 1991 R100. I had several electrical issues on my two long trips I did back when I had more hair and 20 lbs less, i.e., 20 years ago. I went through 2 diode boards, 2 rotors and one regulator and had the opportunity to break down in very exotic locations around Europe and the U.S. Having enjoyed this unplanned stops, I decided to put the R100 at the very end of the garage for 14 years. Now I am in the process of falling in love again with the thing and see if this renewed marriage can get a second chance. I just want to be sure that these electric issues won't happen again. As part of my plan to restore the bike I want to redo the entire electrical system, new wire harness and new alternator/diode board/regulator. In light of the different options in the market, I believe the Omega and Enduralast are probably the best two options.

Any one care to share some knowledge and experience regarding these two systems (or any other for that matter)?

Thank you!!!

Jorge Muñoz

PS: I am sharing a couple of pics of the bike from those trips so you can see that it ran at some point...

Hi Jorge,

I've installed multiple Euro MotoElectrics products including their stock alternator replacements. First class products and service, both pre and post sale.

Hope that helps.

Best.
Brook Reams.

PS: If you need to see how that work is done on a '77 RS, here's a link to my documentation of that work on my web site, (https://brook.reams.me)

12 BMW 1977 R100RS Replace Engine Electrical Components
 
Hi Jorge,

I've installed multiple Euro MotoElectrics products including their stock alternator replacements. First class products and service, both pre and post sale.

Hope that helps.

Best.
Brook Reams.

PS: If you need to see how that work is done on a '77 RS, here's a link to my documentation of that work on my web site, (https://brook.reams.me)

12 BMW 1977 R100RS Replace Engine Electrical Components

Hello Brook,

I see they have four different types: The Enduralast 450W alternator kit, the Enduralast III alternator kit, the The Enduralast II alternator kit and the The Enduralast I alternator kit. I feel I should maybe consider the The Enduralast III alternator kit as perhaps the best option, since if I were to have any issues on a long trip (I am planning a remake of my 2000 trip around Europe for 2020 with this bike) I could replace any part with BMW parts. Having said that, the 450W sounds very appealing too since it is simpler and a more current tech. Of all those kits you have installed, any recommendation as of which Enduralast option you would choose? Do I need to get an AGM battery too?

Thank you for your feedback!

Jorge
 
I want to thank you for the information provided in the links here. It is really outstanding. I will try to go over all of it and see if I have any further questions. Again, thank you!!!
 
Electrics

Hello,

I found an older thread about this perennial question. I am in the process of bringing back to life my old 1991 R100. I had several electrical issues on my two long trips I did back when I had more hair and 20 lbs less, i.e., 20 years ago. I went through 2 diode boards, 2 rotors and one regulator and had the opportunity to break down in very exotic locations around Europe and the U.S. Having enjoyed this unplanned stops, I decided to put the R100 at the very end of the garage for 14 years. Now I am in the process of falling in love again with the thing and see if this renewed marriage can get a second chance. I just want to be sure that these electric issues won't happen again. As part of my plan to restore the bike I want to redo the entire electrical system, new wire harness and new alternator/diode board/regulator. In light of the different options in the market, I believe the Omega and Enduralast are probably the best two options.

Any one care to share some knowledge and experience regarding these two systems (or any other for that matter)?

Thank you!!!

Jorge Muñoz

PS: I am sharing a couple of pics of the bike from those trips so you can see that it ran at some point...

I would only add that the stock system works fine as long as you're not overloading it with 100w headlamps, running lights and his and her heated vests. My 74 R90s with 140k has a fairly stock system except for adding a Thunderchild diode board and electronic voltage regulator. I run a heated vest occasionally and have had zero issues over the years.
 
I would only add that the stock system works fine as long as you're not overloading it with 100w headlamps, running lights and his and her heated vests. My 74 R90s with 140k has a fairly stock system except for adding a Thunderchild diode board and electronic voltage regulator. I run a heated vest occasionally and have had zero issues over the years.

I disagree in one respect. The stock rotors are prone to failure in cold weather regardless of electrical load. When the bike is started the cold windings expand quickly as they are heated and this can lead to a winding physically breaking creating an "open" in the circuit. This happened to me on my R80G/S one morning as we camped north of Yellowstone with the temperatures in the mid 30s.

Back when we were going to a dozen local rallies a year I always carried an Airhead rotor even though I was riding my K75. I loaned that rotor 5 or 6 times so riders could get home. I always got it or a new one back in the mail.
 
Hello Brook,

I see they have four different types: The Enduralast 450W alternator kit, the Enduralast III alternator kit, the The Enduralast II alternator kit and the The Enduralast I alternator kit. I feel I should maybe consider the The Enduralast III alternator kit as perhaps the best option, since if I were to have any issues on a long trip (I am planning a remake of my 2000 trip around Europe for 2020 with this bike) I could replace any part with BMW parts. Having said that, the 450W sounds very appealing too since it is simpler and a more current tech. Of all those kits you have installed, any recommendation as of which Enduralast option you would choose? Do I need to get an AGM battery too?

Thank you for your feedback!

Jorge

Jorge,

I've installed two of the type 1 kits which provide stock wattage. I've not installed nor used the higher wattage systems.

A new battery of the AGM design makes sense as it's maintenance free since it's sealed. I've been using Westco brand with good result getting 4-5 years out of them when using a battery tender.

To Paul's comment regarding rotors, they are subject to strong forces, both magnetic and mechanical. Consequently, they fail much more frequently than the stator windings of the alternator. In the 150,000 cumulative miles in 40+ years my wife and I put on two BMW's, a /5 and /6, I never had a rotor failure. But they do fail.

If you go with the BMW-style rotor that uses wire and brushes and a current flowing through it to generate it's magnetic field, and you go with the stock configuration alternator, I'd keep the old rotor as a spare on your bike along with the special puller bolt to extract it. You can replace a failed rotor in about 30 mins on the side of the road.

The other design for a rotor is a permanent magnet which I believe is used in the EME 450 w alternator. The failure modes of permanent magnet rotors is loss of magnetism over time and failure of the adhesive that holds the magnets on the rotor. Again, these magnets are subject to the same strong magnetic and mechanical forces seen on any rotor as they spin, so adhesive failure can occur over time. Having said that, I have no experience with the longevity of the EME 450 w alternator kit, but others may be able to tell you their experience.

In short, all mechanical things can fail. And, of course, alternators only fail when you use them, just like light switches :dance

Best.
Brook Reams.
 
electrical

I disagree in one respect. The stock rotors are prone to failure in cold weather regardless of electrical load. When the bike is started the cold windings expand quickly as they are heated and this can lead to a winding physically breaking creating an "open" in the circuit. This happened to me on my R80G/S one morning as we camped north of Yellowstone with the temperatures in the mid 30s.

Back when we were going to a dozen local rallies a year I always carried an Airhead rotor even though I was riding my K75. I loaned that rotor 5 or 6 times so riders could get home. I always got it or a new one back in the mail.

Paul, I was remiss in not mentioning that I upgraded my rotor as well. However, the stock unit (which I still carry as a spare) went over 100k. In contrast, my '93 R100RT rotor opened at 25k (sadly on a trip to Nova Scotia).

RPG
 
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