Removing the NAV-5 Cradle from a R1200RS

[36654]

I'm not a GPS guy ( a map and clueless wondering are my preferences ) and I have enough challenges staying alive on the road without adding additional information distractions. So, I want to remove the dealer installed GPS cradle, but I don't know where the cable connector is located on the bike and what panels need to be removed to access it. Apparently, on the GS models the cable connector is located under the "tank" panels.

Any insights?

Also, for owners of non-key-less ride models......what kind of spare keys did you get? In the case of my prior BMW's, you got one or two fob-keys and a simple (non-fob) key. With this last purchase, I only got the two fob keys. The simple key was a great back-up that didn't add much bulk to my key ring.

 

[mrbigfoot]

Gas only 1 fob

I only got one fob and one spare with my keyless GS.

As for removing the cradle on the GS your right, four quick bolts, cut a couple tyraps and unplug the cable inside the tank panel. Didn't even have to remove anything from the GS to get to the plug.

 

[omega man]

I only got one fob and one spare with my keyless GS.

As for removing the cradle on the GS your right, four quick bolts, cut a couple tyraps and unplug the cable inside the tank panel. Didn't even have to remove anything from the GS to get to the plug.

Welcome to the forum!
Gary

 

[lee]

See if this thread helps.
http://r1200rsforums.com/threads/removing-nav-5-prep-support.375/

After you remove the mount, you can get bolts from your dealer that will look better than the hardware that holds the mount.
04 07 12 9 907 373 ISA SCREW - M8X35 0.04 4 $1.79


Here's another thread dealing with a R1200R LC.
http://www.r1200rforum.com/forum/bm...forum-65/how-removed-factory-gps-mount-24089/

My first link no longer works

 

[36654]

See if this thread helps.
http://r1200rsforums.com/threads/removing-nav-5-prep-support.375/

After you remove the mount, you can get bolts from your dealer that will look better than the hardware that holds the mount.
04 07 12 9 907 373 ISA SCREW - M8X35 0.04 4 $1.79


Here's another thread dealing with a R1200R LC.
http://www.r1200rforum.com/forum/bm...forum-65/how-removed-factory-gps-mount-24089/

Lee,

Thanks for the links. The following are my lessons learned.

1) You gotta remove the right side fairing which appears to be secured by many very pretty stainless steel button-head screws. Sadly, after all those screws are removed.......the panel is still attached........FUDGE

2) Thankfully, one of the folks over on the R1200RSForum, a site I can't join for some reason, showed a picture of your first challenge, which I call the "Tongue of Satan". It's a seemingly innocent plastic protrusion on the lower edge of the front quarter section. Unfortunately, the "tongue" is grasp by the "Jaws of Hell" and must be extracted by wedging a small flat head screw driver between the "tongue" and the bottom of the jaw. Your third hand is really useful during this operation.

3) Having extracted the "tongue" from the "Jaws of Hell", the bottom of the right hand fairing is now loose, but the fairing is still stuck to the center section of the tank fairing. Why is this? It's because some clever fiend decided to mold several "clips" into the backside the fairing which mate to receptacles in the center fairing section. Thus, your job is to put an end to this composite component intercourse and deliver the right hand tank fairing from bondage. Be careful. A gentle oscillatory action seems to work.

4) So, with having done all this good work, what remains? Unplug the canbus connector and snip a few zip ties. Sound easy, but I want to meet the German Elfin folk that do this work with zero thickness fingers and slender surgeon tools. The picture of the area of operation will be included with my following post.

 

[36654]

Where the NAV-5 Cable connector is located........

If you kneel beside your wethead and peek over the edge of the radiator fill cap you'll see the canbus connector. It will be secured by a zip tie to a metal flange/shelf. Cut the zip tie and separate the canbus connector. The "clasp" on the connector is activated by a lever at the back end of the female (bike/black) side of the connector. When the lever is pressed, the connector can be pulled apart.

I wrapped the female (bike) end of the connector in electrical tape and tucked it behind a plastic rib, out of sight.

Sadly, I didn't take pictures until the cable was removed and I was preparing to re-install the fairing panels. Hopefully, the following provides some guidance.

 

[lee]

Thanks for the pictures. I saved your thread because I'm guessing those panels need to be removed when I change the air filter.

 

[36654]

Thanks for the pictures. I saved your thread because I'm guessing those panels need to be removed when I change the air filter.

ehhwww.........Didn't think of that.

But, it's not that bad. With the button-head shoulder screws, I think the job is easier than the Oilhead set-up. I hated the industrial Velcro patches on those bikes.

 

[lee]

ehhwww.........Didn't think of that.

But, it's not that bad. With the button-head shoulder screws, I think the job is easier than the Oilhead set-up. I hated the industrial Velcro patches on those bikes.

It doesn't look bad now that I know the hidden attachment points.
The K1200RS had a few of those, and as long as you knew about them the tupperware was easy to remove.

 

[rtwiz]

I'm not a GPS guy ( a map and clueless wondering are my preferences ) and I have enough challenges staying alive on the road without adding additional information distractions. So, I want to remove the dealer installed GPS cradle, but I don't know where the cable connector is located on the bike and what panels need to be removed to access it. Apparently, on the GS models the cable connector is located under the "tank" panels.

Any insights?

Also, for owners of non-key-less ride models......what kind of spare keys did you get? In the case of my prior BMW's, you got one or two fob-keys and a simple (non-fob) key. With this last purchase, I only got the two fob keys. The simple key was a great back-up that didn't add much bulk to my key ring.

36654 (I'm a name, not a number!):

Well, now that you've sussed out how to remove the cradle, let me tell you how great GPS can be for wandering around nearly aimlessly. Here's what I like to do:

1. Get a map of the general area (Southeastern US etc; one with several states...That's close enough usually)...or a small atlas.

2. Find a town roughly between you and your destination that has curvy looking roads leading in and out.

3. Set the GPS to the town with no address. (Town Center will do)

4. Follow the GPS if it pleases you. If you find something better along the way, take it. The GPS will re-route you to the town as you continually veer off-course.

The point here is to avoid dead ends. When it re-routes, so long as it lets you go in the direction you're wanting to go, you know it's not a dead-end. Also GPS is of limited value (some states but not others) for avoiding unpaved roads if you don't like those.

You can continue to pick new towns as you go. I've found the best danged roads this way! When I go to NC from Chicago, for instance, I'll slab down to Indy. A bit south of there, I'll aim for "Madison, IN", that, I found out is a pretty nice little river town that has a bridge across the Ohio River. From there, I'll target some town on the far side of the twisty roads in KY. Then maybe a bit more interstate, then find something else that looks remote and has tiny roads leading there....or I'll pick a town on the far side of a mountain pass. I may turn off the GPS before I reach the actual destination...may reprogram for a new destination. Usually, by the time I get to where I'm going, I've put in 10 or so of these little sub-destinations. I never save anything. Every ride is new. I seriously don't think I've gone to NC the same way twice unless I was leading a pack of riders. I love wandering around, but it's good to know how to get out of it sometimes and GPS is way better than maps for that. Also easier to see it in low light.

Hint: If there are several towns that will do, pick towns with short names for the simple reason that they're easier to type in.

If you use GPS to do what YOU want and not what it wants necessarily, it can be a real handy tool. There's no rule that says you HAVE to do what it says or get there the fastest way.

--------

OK, now about those keys...

If you don't have key-less, you still do not get normal keys on a new BMW bike. My '05 RT doesn't even have them. Starting, I think, with Hex-heads, BMWs have normal looking keys with a key blank attached to a black rubber bit (fob? not really, but let's call it that.) Inside this fob, is a tricky little circuit board that sends a signal to the bike to assure it that you're not actually a bike thief. Apparently, in Europe, stealing bikes is a much better business than here, so BMW went to some lengths to make them near impossible to ride off on if the ignition key is removed.

As a further security measure, BMW came up with a system where the key cannot be coded to your bike by a mere dealer. It must be sent off to BMW NA world HQ in New Jersey for electronic coding to you bike's VIN number as well as the metal part being cut to fit your locks. This means, if you lose your key on the road, it will be a long while before you can replace it. (ask me how I know!).

Of course, these spare gee-wiz keys are hideously expensive. I think $85 each?

The good news is that BMW system cases no longer have to be locked to get the key out of them and they will securely fasten closed without being locked. With oil-head bikes, this used to not be true. You had to lock the case in order to remove the key. Packing with only one key was, for me, quite a frustrating endeavor. The solution was to buy a bunch of cheap key-blanks, get them cut to your locks and leave them in all the bags. With the hex-head system, I only lock my bags overnight when I'm on a trip. During the day, they stay unlocked, freeing me to get things into and out of them at will. The locks are non-intuitive enough so that non-owner, non-experts can't readily figure out how they open, at least in the amount of time they would take to steal and get away undetected. I've never had any unauthorized person open one of my cases ever. My bike has 88K miles on it and is 12 years old. I've left it all kinds of places with bags unlocked.

After my one lost key incident, I keep my spare in my first aid kit in my tank bag. Note that putting it under the locked down seat does no good. Find a hiding place that doesn't require a key to access and doesn't expose the key to the elements. I won't go into all the spots I've thought of. Use your imagination!

Hope at least some of this is helpful?

 

[36654]

If you use GPS to do what YOU want and not what it wants necessarily, it can be a real handy tool. There's no rule that says you HAVE to do what it says or get there the fastest way.

Just follow the banjo music.........