I've been chasing an entirely random 'cutting out'/dying issue with my 2012 F800GS. There does not seem to be particular condition when this issue arises. The mileage at the time it began was in the high 20ks. Ambient or engine temp, fuel tank level, speed, gear nor throttle position matters. For what it's worth, this started after fueling up at some of the 'remote' fuel stations in British Columbia on the way to the bucket list destination of Deadhorse. The fuel pump has been replaced twice (just-in-case), the fuel filter replaced, strainer and tank cleaned. I've also gone through the vent hoses and checked out the charcoal canister according to suggestions posted online. The fuel pump control module has also been replaced. And finally, I've tried the resetting the throttle procedure multiple times. My partners GS911 showed no codes being thrown. Sooo, after going semi-insane reading online comments and watching videos about similar problems I'm debating the shotgun approach and replacing the plugs, coils and injectors. Has anyone experienced such frustration? Has anyone ever had a throttle position sensor intermittently fail? Thanks in advance.
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Random cutting out/dying issue.
- Thread starter willboo
- Start date
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
I've never seen a "bad" TPS on oilheads, but one guy on this forum posted a picture of his a few years ago - it had a crack along a film-resistor strip. Dunno what the F-twins use.
Does it cough before dying? Does it restart after a half hour of cooling down?
It "sorta" sounds electrical; as an early F, it may have the insufficiently-cooled alternator; there's also the crankshaft position sensor, the intake air temperature sensor, and camshaft position sensor to check out - the temp sensors go bad once in a while, and the factory has had the crank & cam sensors not quite properly aligned in the wetheads.
Spark plugs can be "just bad" (and there are outright fake plugs out there too), and they've had problems with some of the stick coils - but I don't know if this applies to the Fs also.
Does it cough before dying? Does it restart after a half hour of cooling down?
It "sorta" sounds electrical; as an early F, it may have the insufficiently-cooled alternator; there's also the crankshaft position sensor, the intake air temperature sensor, and camshaft position sensor to check out - the temp sensors go bad once in a while, and the factory has had the crank & cam sensors not quite properly aligned in the wetheads.
Spark plugs can be "just bad" (and there are outright fake plugs out there too), and they've had problems with some of the stick coils - but I don't know if this applies to the Fs also.
The bike has died a couple times while shifting down. The best I can do to describe the issue is to say it is a very brief complete shut off of fuel or spark. This can come as a single hiccup or a series of hiccups. It has died before but will restart right away. It may run perfectly for an entire day or start cutting out in the first 20 minutes of a ride. I've checked for a vacuum in the fuel tank but don't hear the whoosh of air being sucked in upon opening the cap. I've also completely drained and cleaned the tank and run several different brands of injector cleaner through tanks of fuel on a regular basis.
I wouldn't rule out any possibilities but, if it were a cam or crank sensor issue, wouldn't the issue effect performance? (other than the hiccups) The bike runs as smooth and with the same power as it did after break in. BTW, I've never had any voltage problems and I have added electrical accessories. Thanks again for the input.
I wouldn't rule out any possibilities but, if it were a cam or crank sensor issue, wouldn't the issue effect performance? (other than the hiccups) The bike runs as smooth and with the same power as it did after break in. BTW, I've never had any voltage problems and I have added electrical accessories. Thanks again for the input.
I just did a quick search- bmw f800gs engine quits. Lots of clues like-
A BMW F800GS engine quitting can be caused by several issues, including fuel delivery problems, electrical faults, or even a faulty side stand switch. A common culprit is the fuel pump, which may fail intermittently or when the engine is hot. Other potential causes include a faulty lambda sensor, a clogged charcoal canister, or even a loose flange on the exhaust.
Here's a more detailed breakdown:
Fuel System Issues:
I personally had failure of the hoses to the idling circuit which caused an odd performance problem.
Overfilling the gas tank can drench the charcoal canister filter.
Good luck.
OM.
A BMW F800GS engine quitting can be caused by several issues, including fuel delivery problems, electrical faults, or even a faulty side stand switch. A common culprit is the fuel pump, which may fail intermittently or when the engine is hot. Other potential causes include a faulty lambda sensor, a clogged charcoal canister, or even a loose flange on the exhaust.
Here's a more detailed breakdown:
Fuel System Issues:
- Fuel Pump:
.
The fuel pump is a frequent suspect. It may fail intermittently, especially when the engine is hot, or when the throttle is rolled off.
- Fuel Filter:
.
A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow and cause the engine to stall.
- Charcoal Canister:
.
The charcoal canister, designed to vent fuel vapors, can sometimes cause problems if it gets clogged or malfunctions, potentially affecting fuel delivery.
- Fuel Quality:
.
Water or debris in the fuel can also lead to stalling.
- Lambda Sensor:
A faulty lambda sensor can cause the engine to run lean or rich, potentially leading to stalling.
- Side Stand Switch:
A malfunctioning side stand switch can cut off the engine, especially when the bike is moving or vibrating. Some owners have bypassed this switch to test if it's the problem.
- Battery:
While less common, a weak or failing battery can cause starting and running issues. Check the battery voltage, especially under load (when starting), and ensure connections are clean and tight.
- Stator:
In older F800GS models, stator problems were known to occur, affecting charging and potentially leading to stalling.
- EWS (Electronic Immobilizer):
An EWS fault can prevent the engine from starting or cause it to stall.This is usually indicated by a specific error code.
- Overheating: While less likely, overheating can cause the engine to shut down. Ensure the cooling system is functioning correctly and that the radiator fan is working.
- Lean Fueling: The bike's fuel mixture can be too lean under certain conditions, causing the engine to cut out.
- Engine Overload: Overloading the bike can also lead to stalling.
- Throttle Body/TPS: Problems with the throttle body or throttle position sensor (TPS) can affect engine performance and cause stalling.
- Idle Actuator Controller: A dirty or malfunctioning idle actuator valve can cause the engine to stall at idle.
- Spark Plugs: Faulty or improperly gapped spark plugs can also contribute to stalling.
- Check the Basics: Ensure the fuel cap is properly sealed (not too tight), the battery connections are clean and tight, and the fuel level is adequate.
- Check for Error Codes: Use a diagnostic tool (like the GS-911) to check for any error codes that might point to the cause of the problem.
- Fuel System: Check the fuel pump and filter for proper operation, and consider a fuel system flush with a product like Techron.
- Electrical System: Check the battery voltage, stator output, and lambda sensor.
- Side Stand Switch: Consider bypassing the side stand switch to see if it's the cause.
- Idle System: Clean the idle actuator valve and check the hoses to the idling circuit.
- Dealer Diagnostics: If the problem persists, it's best to take the bike to a BMW dealer for a thorough diagnostic check.
I personally had failure of the hoses to the idling circuit which caused an odd performance problem.
Overfilling the gas tank can drench the charcoal canister filter.
Good luck.
OM.
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
Had that with my sister's F650 twin. Ended up replacing the alternator and the problem went away. Died when rolling off the throttle, not under power.
Is the alternator stock? I think the 2012 still has the rotor without the vent holes. You could pull the right engine cover off and see if there is an obvious burnt spot on the stator.
Is the alternator stock? I think the 2012 still has the rotor without the vent holes. You could pull the right engine cover off and see if there is an obvious burnt spot on the stator.
holgercaban12
'08 R1200RT, '01 F650GS
I just posted about a very similar problem on the Thumpers forum on this site. Wondering if you have made any progress with your diagnostics and have come to a solution.
I'm back home and have been busy with life often getting in the way. My engineer neighbor who rides a 1200GS gave me a few suggestions. None of them worked. He should owe me a six pack. First of all, the bike has never thrown a code on a GS911. This is what I have done since my last post. Relaced injectors, coils and plugs, checked hoses and charcoal cannister and moved the kickstand around while the bike was on its center stand. I went for a couple hour ride and had two quick sputters and then it died as I shifted down and rolled to a stop at a traffic light. Before throwing more money at replacing parts I will check the alternator next. Stay tuned, this is dragging on but I'd like to share what I finally find.
Good luck. Keep us updated.
OM
So, I went down the rabbit hole of the internet researching upgraded components. Has anyone following this thread installed a MOSFET voltage regulator? This circuitry is supposed to allow the alternator to run cooler. I'm seeing a difference of over $200 in price on what is supposed to be the same manufacturer and model number on a major website. If it's allowed to name brands on this forum it is CompuFire. Without any technical data as to the circuitry of these offerings, I'm very suspicious. (of course, it's the internet) I'll be back in the shop tomorrow to perform electrical tests and, if indicated, pull the stator.
There has been a couple of great threads on the issues of voltage regulators and stators.
Here is one-
Shindengen SH847
Based on information I received from RadioFlyer and AntonLargiader, I decided to replace the stock voltage regulator in my 2014 BMW R1200RT with the Shindengen SH847. Because it is a series-style instead of a shunt-style regulator, it purports to run the stator cooler, hopefully increasing the...
forums.bmwmoa.org
Continuing to hear about your progress.
OM
Hello, and hope you find your gremlin soon...I have a 2009 800 GS, and a few years back, I had a stalling issue that was very random, with nothing seeming to cause the stall.In my case, the first time this occurred, I found that the fuel tank was not venting correctly, and when it did not vent, the pump was unable to maintain enough fuel pressure to the engine, and the engine would die.I discovered my opening my fuel tanks once after it died and hearing a rush of airflow into the tank. I repositioned the vent line, and it seems to have solved that issue. However, it began occurring again, and the thinking at the time was faulty the fuel pumps. I replaced my fuel pump and have not had the issue in several years now....
Good Luck
Good Luck
I'll tip my hat, or helmet, to you omega man. I replaced the stator and upgraded to the Shindengen SH-847 from Roadstercycle. I rode yesterday and today and had no glitches, sputters or dying. Admittedly, I can't wrap my head around how a toasted stator can cause the issues I experienced. I would have expected voltage issues too. I ordered the four-way mount adapter and modified it some. I also had to use spacers to move it out about 12mm. I didn't think to take pictures of the steps of installation. 
Anyway, here are a couple pictures new/old and the Shindengen instillation.
Anyway, here are a couple pictures new/old and the Shindengen instillation.
Nice! Glad you made it through the repair. I think you have seen my installation thread on the SH-847. I did it in the hopes I could skip the actual stator repair as well.
OM
