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R1100s models, repair information and related
- Thread starter tibork
- Start date
fbt80
Active member
Found one, Short torque arm that is. That was not ea$y. Looks to be the 365mm version off a 2000 R1100s they say, eye to eye it's the right distance. Now I'm going to try to install without dropping the rear wheel, the Cat Converter and disconnecting all that exhaust plumbing and then see if my center stand needs to have high heels or something to compensate.
On my BCR, using a stock centerstand, both wheels touch the ground firmly enough to make getting off the centerstand problematic as it just slides along.
Had the stock stand lengthened by 3/4 inch and it works just fine. I store the bike on the centerstand and remove it (two bolts) for riding, not a major inconvenience. With a Remus exhaust system there is not the upper stop for the centerstand when retracted. It hits the torque arm.
Frank
Had the stock stand lengthened by 3/4 inch and it works just fine. I store the bike on the centerstand and remove it (two bolts) for riding, not a major inconvenience. With a Remus exhaust system there is not the upper stop for the centerstand when retracted. It hits the torque arm.
Frank
fbt80
Active member
3/4 inches. Thought maybe I'd need to add a 1/4 plate to the bottom, but you would know. I really want to keep the stand because I really use the bike mostly for big multi-day touring travel and want that convenience during flat fixes on the road. I'm 6' 1" so will be great to have the bike fit me as well.
fbt80
Active member
Yup, did the same.
fbt80
Active member
Torque Arm Transplant.
Part arrived this weekend like in 2 days from LA, from apparently a part not on fire… (Fontana).
It was the right size (365mm) and wasn’t beat up, so no paint or prep other than greasing stuff. Now the issue of getting the forward bolt removed remained…The BMW method: Disconnect both exhaust pipes from the collector, order new gaskets, disconnect down-pipe exhaust from the silencers, drop the collector…not doing it. Actually, the BMW method is go to your dealer.
...so I made a 16mm wrench from 1/4 steel bar stock from Home Depot, slid it between the collector and the frame and held the nut and loosened the 43nm torqued HEX...it just fit. Had a beer after completion and allowed myself to feel smug for a couple of minutes.
On to an elegant solution to the too short center stand issue I've now created. It looks like I'll need something like 1/2-3/4" pads. Original thought was to just have steel plates welded, but that thickness will actually be about adding real weight. Maybe acrylic bolted...fancy glue...pop rivet?
Part arrived this weekend like in 2 days from LA, from apparently a part not on fire… (Fontana).
It was the right size (365mm) and wasn’t beat up, so no paint or prep other than greasing stuff. Now the issue of getting the forward bolt removed remained…The BMW method: Disconnect both exhaust pipes from the collector, order new gaskets, disconnect down-pipe exhaust from the silencers, drop the collector…not doing it. Actually, the BMW method is go to your dealer.
...so I made a 16mm wrench from 1/4 steel bar stock from Home Depot, slid it between the collector and the frame and held the nut and loosened the 43nm torqued HEX...it just fit. Had a beer after completion and allowed myself to feel smug for a couple of minutes.
On to an elegant solution to the too short center stand issue I've now created. It looks like I'll need something like 1/2-3/4" pads. Original thought was to just have steel plates welded, but that thickness will actually be about adding real weight. Maybe acrylic bolted...fancy glue...pop rivet?
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fbt80
Active member
NEW SHOES. Shorter ARM
Went with HDPE Block PE Polyethylene ultra-high abrasion resistance 3/4" plastic. Held with bolts. This stuff has a grip so even on polished concrete it gets a bite and functions as steel would. It comes up on the stand with the same effort as before and looks to raise the rear wheel with about 1/2"+ clearance. Short arm brings the drive shaft almost inline with the final drive unit.
Early riding impression is markedly better at turn in and for some reason you can get on the front brake even more aggressively than before. At 6'.1" my legs are just bent while flat footed. Haven't padded the side stand however, because I felt the stock bike sat too high on the stand. Now it sits just a tad low.
Went with HDPE Block PE Polyethylene ultra-high abrasion resistance 3/4" plastic. Held with bolts. This stuff has a grip so even on polished concrete it gets a bite and functions as steel would. It comes up on the stand with the same effort as before and looks to raise the rear wheel with about 1/2"+ clearance. Short arm brings the drive shaft almost inline with the final drive unit.
Early riding impression is markedly better at turn in and for some reason you can get on the front brake even more aggressively than before. At 6'.1" my legs are just bent while flat footed. Haven't padded the side stand however, because I felt the stock bike sat too high on the stand. Now it sits just a tad low.
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pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
Nicely done! (I love home-made special-purpose tools.) But I have two little issues....
1) While it's pretty tough stuff, HDPE may be sensitive to stress cracking.
2) Maybe file a little "quarter-circle" on the edges to relieve general stresses, but Especially on the edges that are first to contact the ground as you pull it up onto the stand.
1) While it's pretty tough stuff, HDPE may be sensitive to stress cracking.
2) Maybe file a little "quarter-circle" on the edges to relieve general stresses, but Especially on the edges that are first to contact the ground as you pull it up onto the stand.
fbt80
Active member
Yup, I wanted to scuff it first to see the contact areas and then ramp the leading edges. I think cold could be an issue in cracking, but Florida has little...except this last month has been really cold for here. I did give the holes a bit of wiggle room and countersunk the bolt heads. I think it'll wear down to the bolt heads first before anything else. I'll see how they hold up. I have enough material to make maybe 10 more sets. But it added very little weight to speak of which was my reason to use. I'm going to profile the inside edge on the right side, because when folded it gets a little too close to the tire sidewall for my thought.
All the corners were radiused prior to install.
On the arm, I'm going to do a shake down trip Mid Feb across "alligator alley" and back, about 500 miles to make sure the universals are happy with their new engagement.
All the corners were radiused prior to install.
On the arm, I'm going to do a shake down trip Mid Feb across "alligator alley" and back, about 500 miles to make sure the universals are happy with their new engagement.
fbt80
Active member
Something to share.
I've always sensed the R1100s turns more easily into right handers, caulked it up to some alignment/biased weight distribution thing that makes more bar pressure needed for left turns, possible accounting for the weird wear patterns on the front. Once I raised the rear of the bike's chassis with the shorter arm, I began to really notice how good it falls into righthanders than ever before...then I happened to come across an interview with a multi-champion in todays boxer race series, what he said gave me the aha moment I'm sharing.
He stated he always enjoys race courses that circulate clockwise because there will always be more right hand turns. He went on to say because of the crank rotation of any boxer it allowed him "to throw the bike into right handers like a 600, while having to square off left handers like a liter bike" because he has to fight the centrifugal force of the crank....damn that's it!.
I've always sensed the R1100s turns more easily into right handers, caulked it up to some alignment/biased weight distribution thing that makes more bar pressure needed for left turns, possible accounting for the weird wear patterns on the front. Once I raised the rear of the bike's chassis with the shorter arm, I began to really notice how good it falls into righthanders than ever before...then I happened to come across an interview with a multi-champion in todays boxer race series, what he said gave me the aha moment I'm sharing.
He stated he always enjoys race courses that circulate clockwise because there will always be more right hand turns. He went on to say because of the crank rotation of any boxer it allowed him "to throw the bike into right handers like a 600, while having to square off left handers like a liter bike" because he has to fight the centrifugal force of the crank....damn that's it!.
fbt80
Active member
...yeah, let us know.
The universals will be very happy with the new setup. Regarding centrestand pads, I used some old skid plate from an Indy car. No reason to ramp the leading edge. Enjoy your better handling 1100S.
That was from you dragging the stand in the corners.
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