• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

R100RT Oil Chng w/o removing Exhaust

JB1973R75S5

New member
First oil change on 1982 R100RT with oil filter.

Remover Rt side lower fairing, went to harbor Freight and purchased ball end Allen keys, removed (3) bolts from Oil filter cover.

Now can't remove cover as exhaust is in the way.

Thinking I can remove lower portion of oil cooler adapter and the cover will come off w/out having to remove pipes.

Is this advisable?
 
It can be done, but it is difficult and you may not feel confident that you got the $2,000 "O" ring back in correctly if you have to slide the cooler back across the filter. Easier just to drop the exhaust and lube the exhaust nuts at the same time. It also saves you having to take the lowers off too.
 
Process is easier on my 1994 RT so do not have a totally on point comment. Do have words of advice. My experience of using ball end hex wrenches is that they really need a very good condition socket in which to work reliably and, in this application in particular, can beat up screw socket heads. I have learnt to have some new replacement screws to hand if one or more are damaged too much in the process of loosening.
 
It's been 24 years since I had a 1984 R100RT.
Seems like I just loosened the crossover tube on the headers and spread the headers as much as I could. This gave me enough room the get the filter out without removing the fairing lowers. I can't remember for sure but I think I tightened the crossover tube with the headers in the spread position and left the exhaust that way.
 
Job is done.

I did pull both the Rt Lower fairing off and drop the exhaust.

Found a few things as is often the case with first time procedures with new bike.

The crossover pipes both front & rear are not in best of shape. The bits welded on to tighten them are off on one side on the front and I snapped one off the rear crossover trying to loosen things up.

The pipes were stuck in the engine pretty good, but finally got them loose with some PB plaster and gentle rocking.

Dropped oil pan, cleaned pick-up screen (did not have the upper gasket for the unit) and replaced oil pan gasket. Put Honda Bond on both sides of gasket, followed oil pan bolt tightening sequence in Clymers and torqued each bolt to 10Ft-lb.

I will let it cure until tomorrow before I fill with oil.

Did put anti-seize on all exhaust parts during re-assembly.

The more I take fairing off and put back on, the easier it seems.

I am glad I still have the /5 for parts runs.

I found what looks like an oil leak up front above the Oil Cooler adapter. I am thinking that maybe my rear main seal is leaking.

Getting ready for trip to Sedalia. Don't think I will have a chance to get in there to replace that before I go. I suppose I will just monitor this area for oil.

Thanks for all your postings to my question.
 
Now that it is done it will be easier the next time. I do not mess with the cross over because the joints are always "welded" together, unless they are removed once in awhile. I take the mufflers off both sides, remove the hangers on the exhaust pipes, and loosen the exhaust nuts. This allows me to slide the left and right side off at the same time with the cross over undisturbed. Doing this once or twice a year keeps those nuts loose making it easier the next time.

We will be in Sedalia Thursday and Friday, part of the time at the Airhead Tent. Hope to see you there, although I will be on a R1200R, not my recently sold Motorsport. Looking at buying back my old R90S though, but I do not think that will happen before then.

Wayne
 
That is exactly how I removed the pipes.

I should arrive at the rally Thursday. I have a stop in Nebraska first.

It would be good to meet up with you.

I will send you my contact info.
 
I am anything but handy but have no - make that, "little" - difficulty changing the oil filter on my 84 RT without so much as loosening the exhaust pipe or fairing. Ball-headed allen wrench, yes, and the hinged filter goes in from the front side - towards the wheel. First time is a bit picky, but once you've done it it's a piece of the proverbial cake. Best of luck.
 
Is there a kit available to convert these to a spin on filter???

Generally considered a bad idea, introducing another failure point in a critical system of the bike. I think most people would say that something like this is a solution looking for a problem that doesn't exist.

That said, the only company I can recall that sells spin-on filter setups is Motoren-Israel. Not sure what the actual applications are:

http://www.motoren-israel.com/
 
Does the '82 R100RT in question have the flattened right header pipe?

Not positive when BMW started fitting these, but they for sure can be retrofitted to this model.

With this pipe I'd still remove the right fairing lower.
 
Pipes not flattened.

The job went well with removing the Rt. Lower fairing section, pulling off mufflers, remove headers from cylinders and dropped down

Did not fully remove from bike as this bike has rear crossover pipe.
 
Last edited:
I don't touch the exhaust header or the fairing lower when changing the filter on my 84 RT. It was slow going the first time but once you've done it a few times (to figure out the tricks, e.g., the filter goes in from the front direction (front wheel) towards the back of the bike) you get better at it. Like everything. Best of luck.
 
Back
Top