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R100/7 lead substitute
- Thread starter 179212
- Start date
I used to use various lead substitutes until I finally replaced my heads on my /7 at about 100K miles. I think it's a false sense of security to use a substitute. Even while using it, I was always conscious of the valves, noises, etc. I was finally facing a possible long distance trip across the west with high temps...I just couldn't justify continuing to do that. Plus I kept having to carry various vials with me and it was a pain having to fish it out to add to the gas during a fillup.
There have been discussions about getting low-lead aviation fuel at the local airport. There are two sides...doing it to help with the lead requirement for the valves and valve seats and then the other side which says it's illegal to do it because the airport fuel does not have the road taxes on it that "regular" gas does. Not going to get into the argument but that's the situation.
IIRC VP Racing fuels sells 100+ fully leaded fuel in 5 gallon containers. I did that also, but I kind of got scared of dealing with lead and pouring a cup or two into each tank or every other tank. Lead is toxic and it just wasn't worth it. Plus, hard to carry that 5 gallon container on touring trips!!
If you feel like lightening your wallet for probably little return, try the substitutes. The last round of OTC product I was using made by Gunk, available most everywhere. I think it's a calcium phosphate based chemical. Not lead but maybe does the job.
Probably the best thing you can do is use quality gasoline with the right octane and set and monitor your valve clearances. If you find they close up from their nominal values in 500-1000 miles, you're beginning to get valve seat recession. Then you can schedule your downtime and get the heads modified. If you're putting a lot of stress on the engine, by that I mean heat as the 1000cc engines produce more heat than the smaller engines, you may have recession faster than you would like.
Once the changeover is made, that's one major worry off your mind!!
There have been discussions about getting low-lead aviation fuel at the local airport. There are two sides...doing it to help with the lead requirement for the valves and valve seats and then the other side which says it's illegal to do it because the airport fuel does not have the road taxes on it that "regular" gas does. Not going to get into the argument but that's the situation.
IIRC VP Racing fuels sells 100+ fully leaded fuel in 5 gallon containers. I did that also, but I kind of got scared of dealing with lead and pouring a cup or two into each tank or every other tank. Lead is toxic and it just wasn't worth it. Plus, hard to carry that 5 gallon container on touring trips!!
If you feel like lightening your wallet for probably little return, try the substitutes. The last round of OTC product I was using made by Gunk, available most everywhere. I think it's a calcium phosphate based chemical. Not lead but maybe does the job.
Probably the best thing you can do is use quality gasoline with the right octane and set and monitor your valve clearances. If you find they close up from their nominal values in 500-1000 miles, you're beginning to get valve seat recession. Then you can schedule your downtime and get the heads modified. If you're putting a lot of stress on the engine, by that I mean heat as the 1000cc engines produce more heat than the smaller engines, you may have recession faster than you would like.
Once the changeover is made, that's one major worry off your mind!!
I am not sure I should add to the discussion as I think Kurt has about the best handle on these things as anybody, but here I go:
I like to use the Lucas gasoline additive and have done so faithfully since I have owned the bike. At 400:1 ratio, it isn't much to carry around enough to keep it up on trips. I also use it in my car. Auto was EPA rated when purchased at 36 MPG, but actually gets 40 MPG on trips. Lucas engineer told me that he thinks it is due to the Lucas additive (well ???, I know he is supposed to say that!!), however, I have heard great things about all of Lucas' products, and at least figure that the gasoline additive can't do any worse than at least lubricate the top end and keep the carbs cleaner.
I have never had any issue with my R100/7 with the valve settings. In 3+ years, and 18,000+ miles, I have never had more than a thousandth (.001) issue with any valve setting. I set mine on the slightly loose .006 for intake, and .008 for exhaust.
FWIW !!
I like to use the Lucas gasoline additive and have done so faithfully since I have owned the bike. At 400:1 ratio, it isn't much to carry around enough to keep it up on trips. I also use it in my car. Auto was EPA rated when purchased at 36 MPG, but actually gets 40 MPG on trips. Lucas engineer told me that he thinks it is due to the Lucas additive (well ???, I know he is supposed to say that!!), however, I have heard great things about all of Lucas' products, and at least figure that the gasoline additive can't do any worse than at least lubricate the top end and keep the carbs cleaner.
I have never had any issue with my R100/7 with the valve settings. In 3+ years, and 18,000+ miles, I have never had more than a thousandth (.001) issue with any valve setting. I set mine on the slightly loose .006 for intake, and .008 for exhaust.
FWIW !!
lead substitute
Thanks for help agree with Kurt on his reply and it can't hurt to try Lucas additive. Have a friend with an old 883 sportser with a lot of miles on it ( to quote tattoo on the island the pain the pain) someone told him a few drops of ATF in each tank would help it and it ain't died yet his Ass may have but the bike still potatoes along
Thanks for help agree with Kurt on his reply and it can't hurt to try Lucas additive. Have a friend with an old 883 sportser with a lot of miles on it ( to quote tattoo on the island the pain the pain) someone told him a few drops of ATF in each tank would help it and it ain't died yet his Ass may have but the bike still potatoes along
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