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Purchasing an airhead, 600-750cc, for a pleasure cruiser

I have two threaded rods and a couple old spark plug fittings I’ve been using for 45 years in conjunction with an old Craftsman screwdriver I rescued from paint can duty by my dad.
 
It was the choke piston on the slide carb on my 75 R60/6 that was the main source of my problems. When cleaning the carb I noticed a bunch of black "spooge" in the piston (see attached image). Dutifully I removed the spooge (which was the severely degraded rubber seal). I came to discover that it would only take about 12 miles with fresh spark plugs before one side would begin fouling - Pro Tip - an R60/6 running on one cylinder does not make much power - if one is fairly close to home (and lucky) it is possible to return home by jogging alongside the bike whilst in first gear, running badly on one cylinder! The excess fuel and fouling led to much carbon build-up on the pistons and valves - which contributed to pinging (and the suggestion for use of avgas) - I used a product, recommended by Oak (a now deceased airhead guru), called HydroSeal II to soak the pistons and heads to remove the carbon - along with periodic brushing with an old toothbrush to dislodge the softened carbon.

hydroseal.png

Over 50 years ago I owned a Triumph TR4 car, which had two carbs. Other folks with similar dual carb'd British sports cars would use an air flow meter to balance the carbs. The air flow measuring devices that I recall were much less sophisticated than the device pictured below. To use, the air filters (or in the case of the R60/6, the air intake tubes) are removed. The air flow meter is placed at the air intake side of the carb and the flow rate is measured. One attempts to get about the same for each carb.

Source for air flow meter -

Bing slide carb choke piston and airflow meter images below -

bing-slide-carb-choke-piston.jpgcarb-airflow-meter.jpg
 
So I'd like to join the Airhead Club.

I've determined that I need another motorcycle, with the following characteristics:
  • Not something that is hard to ride in a relaxed, casual, dare I say slow manner.
  • Has a nice classic appearance. Possibly "cool".
  • Is something that I can maintain myself, and even "needs" to be tinkered with a little bit.
  • Something I can ride alongside my wife's Honda Rebel 500.
  • Something that would fit in with future "Distinguished Gentlemen's Ride" events.
My current bike, a '16 R1200R, doesn't fit many - if any - of those points. It's a drag to ride along with the Rebel 500, as it's heavy, powerful, and loves to carve every corner. It doesn't do "slow" for anything more than creeping up to a stop sign or light, before wanting to leap forward at the first opportunity. So I started looking at other models. I think I've settled on an R60 or R75, and am currently really interested in one of the bikes advertised on the marketplace - the single owner '75 R60/6 in New York(Removed). I've run the numbers, and getting the bike out to the West Coast (I live in Long Beach, CA) works using the shipper supported by the MOA. But I haven't been able to get the seller to respond in any way.

I was wondering if anyone here might know the gentleman who listed it, or the bike itself, and might be able to help me reach out and get answers to a couple of simple questions, like is that a LWB or SWB model (not that it matters to me), roughly how many miles are on it, and is it even still available?

If anyone has other resources I should look at in choosing the right airhead for myself, I'd love more reading material.
I drive a 1976 R60/6 with a hack. Had her for 12 years. 102,000 miles so far. Leaving on a 4,500 mile trip in a few weeks. Best bike I've ever had . Cheers
 
The '75 R60/6 is starting to arrive! Got the front fender...
1784324085164.png

Along with the signed title and all but one key!

Now just waiting on the transport company to have a truck in the rough area of Syracuse... Specifically the small town of Erieville.
 
Yeah, I thonk the shipping for "piece by piece" would reiple or more the cost!

Transport should be there before the end of the month. I chose the discount option (flexible timing, two week pickup window, and strapped in the trailer rather than on a pallet), and with the MOA discount shipping is just over $800 clams.
 
Just received a cool message about the /6 on another forum.

Congratulations on the /6. That bike is about an hour from where I live. I talked to the owner. If I had the room I would have bought it. I'd say good luck with her but I don't think you'd need it with that one.
 
It was the choke piston on the slide carb on my 75 R60/6 that was the main source of my problems. When cleaning the carb I noticed a bunch of black "spooge" in the piston (see attached image). Dutifully I removed the spooge (which was the severely degraded rubber seal). I came to discover that it would only take about 12 miles with fresh spark plugs before one side would begin fouling - Pro Tip - an R60/6 running on one cylinder does not make much power - if one is fairly close to home (and lucky) it is possible to return home by jogging alongside the bike whilst in first gear, running badly on one cylinder! The excess fuel and fouling led to much carbon build-up on the pistons and valves - which contributed to pinging (and the suggestion for use of avgas) - I used a product, recommended by Oak (a now deceased airhead guru), called HydroSeal II to soak the pistons and heads to remove the carbon - along with periodic brushing with an old toothbrush to dislodge the softened carbon.

View attachment 116591

To use, the air filters (or in the case of the R60/6, the air intake tubes) are removed. The air flow meter is placed at the air intake side of the carb and the flow rate is measured. One attempts to get about the same for each carb.

Source for air flow meter -

Bing slide carb choke piston and airflow meter images below -

View attachment 116590View attachment 116589
So if I understand correctly; you remove one air intake tube, insert the meter, note the airflow, the remove and do the same on the other carb until you have them matched?
 
I think that it might be best to remove both sides air intake tubes from the carbs. Then start the bike, let it warm up (or do procedure after the bike is warmed). Then insert the meter and adjust as needed. It would be highly desirable if both carbs were configured the same (e.g., same jets, same setting on needle position, etc.). Other obvious things like valve clearances and timing should be set to specified values.

At idle I believe that the needle on the meter might move a bit so some "eyeball averaging" might be necessary. The needle will likely be pretty steady as rpms are increased. I use a couple of floor fans to blow air onto each cylinder when synching carbs. With the bike warmed up it seems inevitable that one will touch some hot part. Careful of language if delicate ears are around! :)
 
I've probably stated this somewhere else, but a couple of cautions. I own a pair of these pressure/vacuum gages. Don't blip the throttle with the gages in place...it will bury the needle which is likely no good. Also, realize that the settings achieved using these devices may not be the final settings. Believe it or not, but the air intake system is an engineering design in terms of length and shape. Putting these devices in place of the original design will change how the air gets to the engine. Some adjustment might be needed after all this. This became evident to me while helping someone work on his R51/3 carbs. We got things good with the gauges in the garage. He took off on a test run and came back saying the bike ran poorly. We did some more tweaking, without the vacuum devices, and the bike ended up running much better.
 
The /6 should be picked up by the hauler no later than Monday 8/3... Then I wait for it to make it's way across the country at basically an angle from almost corner to almost corner...

Screenshot 2026-07-31 164148.png
 
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Western Iowa to central Colorado is about 600 miles... in two hours???
Oh, the marker is off. One is for the northern route, the other for the southern rout. Total time is either 40 or 42 hours depending on route. Map display glitch.
 
The original owner took her last ride to the pickup location this morning, a Walgreens close to them where there was enough room for the truck.

1785770136635.png

It was then loaded onto the lower deck, and after picking up 5 more bikes, the last one from Buffalo HD, and 2 more stops in PA transferring HD's from dealership to dealership, will head for the first depot in Pennsylvania.

1785770234228.png

1785770260019.png

After that is gets loaded with a truck-full of other bikes bound for western destinations to the depot in Las Vegas. Finally, it will be loaded on one more truck for bikes bound for California.


I'm SO EXCITED!!!
 
On another note, this bike has a really interesting history. Owner named it Bianca (a Spanish name for a German lady). She was originally a Canadian bike until fairly recently when it was registered in her husband's name to transfer it to the US. And in 1982 it flew as "luggage" to Australia where she travelled 18k miles in 11 months before flying back. (Loophole in the "luggage" rules.)
 
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