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Preemptive final drive seal replacement

enriquez

New member
Hi folks,

I’m making a list of service tasks to perform on my 2012 R1200RT (30k miles) before a big trip this year and the final drive seal has brought to my attention . In my experience a healthy seal is better to be left alone, however I’ve seen advised elsewhere (on the internet, that is) that this seal is prone to leak and it is better to have it preemptively replaced. What are your thoughts on this, Should I do it or leave it alone?

Regards,
Mario
 
Hi folks,

I’m making a list of service tasks to perform on my 2012 R1200RT (30k miles) before a big trip this year and the final drive seal has brought to my attention . In my experience a healthy seal is better to be left alone, however I’ve seen advised elsewhere (on the internet, that is) that this seal is prone to leak and it is better to have it preemptively replaced. What are your thoughts on this, Should I do it or leave it alone?

Regards,
Mario

Which seal?
 
My guess it's the "crown" wheel seal.

You have a point with the "sleeping dogs lie" approach but- some of this seal problem can be age related. If it's something you don't really have a problem doing yourself, you could take a seal with you along with the needed tools.

I can suggest that if you do it ahead of time, give yourself some time to use the bike after the seal replacement to make sure things went well in the repair.

Good luck.

OM
 
Hi folks,

I’m making a list of service tasks to perform on my 2012 R1200RT (30k miles) before a big trip this year and the final drive seal has brought to my attention . In my experience a healthy seal is better to be left alone, however I’ve seen advised elsewhere (on the internet, that is) that this seal is prone to leak and it is better to have it preemptively replaced. What are your thoughts on this, Should I do it or leave it alone?

Regards,
Mario

If my mechanic believed it should be replaced during a 12K service, he'd make sure it was replaced. He's not replaced one on my 3 bmw motorcycles
 
Those seals once in a while showed issues on the earlier big-hole drives; small weeps and sometimes bigger leaks. IIRC some of that was attributed to fluid level and venting issues, and changes were made including recommended fluid levels. Your newer machine should be past all that.

I wouldn’t change it if it’s not leaking now. You might consider picking up a spare and taking with you if it’s going to be a worry point. That seal is easy to change in the field and the process doesn’t take long, the only real caveat is having something on hand to ease the lip of the new seal onto its mating surface. I just wrapped a wide strip of milk jug plastic over the hub to keep the lip from catching as the seal went in. And if you’re not comfortable with the prospect of doing the job yourself or finding someone in the field to do it for you, dealer replacement of the seal is not horrifically expensive.

Best,
DeVern
 
Along with a spare seal I'd also carry a Sealmate seal cleaning tool and try that first. Several times now a cleaning with the Sealmate is all it took for restore a weeping fork seal back to no weeps, seeps, or leaks. This outboard seal on my 2007 final drive began to weep a little recently. I cleaned the seal out when I noticed a dirty area behind and below the "big hole" and that was about 1000 miles ago - no more weeping since. Before using the Sealmate tool I made sure the wet area did not originate from a leak from the inboard seal, next to the wheel flange.

https://www.amazon.com/Squatch-Raci...ocphy=9011571&hvtargid=pla-829910257600&psc=1
 
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