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Penetrating oil advice offered ...

kantuckid

New member
I was directed towards Kroil in reply to my recent post r.e., a locked motor. If you Google: "where to buy Kroil " it will lead you directly to a forum thread that comments on a test wherein they tried a bunch of penetrating oils, toward breaking loose rusty bolt/nuts, to include using Kroil. The winner:50/50 mix of acetone/ATF . The result shows it to be the best functioning with the lowest cost of the all the oils tried.
Curiosity makes me wonder what Kroil is made from?
 
Probably a fair share of fish oil in it, just like Marvel Mystery oil.

Loosening a rusty bolt or nut is different than loosening a seize piston though.
 
Kroil

The result shows it to be the best functioning with the lowest cost of the all the oils tried.

I inherited a R75/6 which had been sitting in a SE Kansas farm shed since 1987, sprayed Kroil liberally in the spark plug holes - let it sit for about 2 weeks - then tried to turn the motor (spark plugs out of course) using the rear wheel - after a couple of "bumps" it spun nicely.

Just my expericence you might not be that lucky. :scratch
 
I forget the link that contained that test of penetrating oils. However test done for the article did not compare carbon encrusting, or chemical reactions other than pure water rust in a steel on steel application. This is not often applicable to situations we encounter on Airheads. I have tried several applications of the ATF and acetone mix and found that it does not work as well as Liquid Wrench. Liquid Wrench did not test terribly well in the article. A possible conclusion is that the commercial penetrating oils, such as Kroil and Liquid Wrench, may work better in different applications than the one reported in the article.
 
Mouse Milk

Hands down the best I've used for exhaust component tasks - an old standard in the aviation industry. Aircraft exhaust fasteners fuse incredibly tight due to the extreme high heat.
The name is laughable - but hey. Costs more, but a little goes a long long way. No secret on the contents, no family formula - check out the OSHA spec. sheet on the website.

http://www.mousemilk.com/

Bokrijder
 
An interesting use for WD-40 I happened on to (or diesel fuel for that matter) is to spray wasp nests- maybe not on your house- but OK around outside assorted "junk". Kills instantly.
Also something I happened onto some years ago after buying a gallon can of WD-40 I put some in a squirt bottle I had lying around and found it wouldn't squirt? After trying several misc. squirt bottles & none would work either,I broke down and bought a pair of official WD-40 squirt bottles and they have been around the shop for years since. I can understand a solvent in a plastic container causing a problem but never did understand why they wouldn't spray?
There are lots of rust buster type products on the market and most seem to be something on the order of a lighter solvent mixed with something that reminds you of diesel fuel. Goes back to the farm type solution I suppose most have used in a pinch.
My chemical E. son gets the Mousemilk formula now.
I mixed some 50/50 ATF/acetone yesterday and after shaking the stuff it appears to not completely mix as there are oily bubbles floating in the oil can.
 
An interesting use for WD-40 I happened on to (or diesel fuel for that matter) is to spray wasp nests- maybe not on your house- but OK around outside assorted "junk". Kills instantly.
QUOTE]

Back in the mid 1980's I worked in R&D for a leading brand of home pesticide products. All products were oil based. As a cost savings measure, oil was replaced with water and the product lost 50% of its efficacy. Management decided that this was a bonus as consumers would use more product so the change was made.

The folks that work in the bug lab recommend WD-40 and use it at home.
 
Back in the mid 1980's I worked in R&D for a leading brand of home pesticide products. All products were oil based. As a cost savings measure, oil was replaced with water and the product lost 50% of its efficacy. Management decided that this was a bonus as consumers would use more product so the change was made.

It makes sense that is lost efficacy, oil sticks to animals/insects (take a look at the Gulf mess), water washes off and leaves little trace. Besides, a water-based solution probably diluted the active ingredient. You gotta love management, capitalists pigs. Dumb down a good product in the name of making more money, wasting more consumer time, product and packaging along the way. Oy. :scratch. (I secretly hope that's why you left the company, hehe).

Kroil and PBlaster work amazingly well if you keep applying and allow it to creep. A seized piston differs from a rusted bolt in that it was heated and had other compounds in the mix (namely hot oil and carbon). A rusted bolt would have (at one point or another) had water which evaporated and is much easier to get penetrating oil in there. I'd start with pulling the heads which will probably also need attention and soaking the piston with Marvel Mystery oil or Kerosene while the heads/valves are getting checked out by a machine shop.

Just one guy's opinion. :thumb
 
Also something I happened onto some years ago after buying a gallon can of WD-40 I put some in a squirt bottle I had lying around and found it wouldn't squirt? After trying several misc. squirt bottles & none would work either,I broke down and bought a pair of official WD-40 squirt bottles and they have been around the shop for years since. I can understand a solvent in a plastic container causing a problem but never did understand why they wouldn't spray?

WD-40 causes most o-rings and other rubbery parts to swell, and therefore will destroy the spayer on most common bottles (Windex, etc.) The WD-40 bottles have specially formulated rubber that is resistant to WD-40.
 
WD-40 causes most o-rings and other rubbery parts to swell, and therefore will destroy the spayer on most common bottles (Windex, etc.) The WD-40 bottles have specially formulated rubber that is resistant to WD-40.

I thought it interesting that it would not spray in the first place, with no time to swell the internals...
 
I thought it interesting that it would not spray in the first place, with no time to swell the internals...

Ah, I didn't get that part. I've had squirt bottles fail after time (a very short time on occasion) but I don't think I've ever had one fail immediately.

In that case, :dunno
 
Ah, I didn't get that part. I've had squirt bottles fail after time (a very short time on occasion) but I don't think I've ever had one fail immediately.

In that case, :dunno

Brownells and Midway (gun stuff vendors) sell solvent proof squeeze bottles.
 
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