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How to test the front u joint on a 2011 R1200 RT drive shaft?
- Thread starter galaxie
- Start date
Mellow
Member
I would say:
1 - If you feel any unusual vibration in the foot pegs when riding, that's tough as the boxer has some inherent vibs.
2 - On the centerstand, spin the rear wheel and see if you notice any non-smooth action, think u-joint rotating and hanging, so a sorta notchy-ness. On my ST1300, I noticed the wheel spinning and heard a distinctive thumping but also, when the wheel stopped spinning, it would go the opposite direction. That was indicating the u-joint was binding and holding some tension.
This is the video for my ST1300, I know not apples to apples comparison but, a u-joint failure on a bmw might be similar:
3 - Remove the drive shaft during your 12k intervals and see if you notice any binding or visual degradation.
I'm sure BMW will have some complicated way to inspect these, probably involves an expensive driveshaft inspection tool LOL.
I personally plan to do the 1-3 steps above and may replace my DS every 80k miles, if it doesn't show any issues from the steps above. You really don't see DS failures that often... Given how many BMS bikes are out there with drive shafts you'd think there would be a failure every week. So, some of this is yelling fire in a movie theater due to BMWs TSB update to cover their possible legal issues.
I'm not really worried about any of this all that much, I see it like a wheel bearing issue and another one of those things you have to look out for but rare enough to not be all that concerned, just notice anything unusual.
1 - If you feel any unusual vibration in the foot pegs when riding, that's tough as the boxer has some inherent vibs.
2 - On the centerstand, spin the rear wheel and see if you notice any non-smooth action, think u-joint rotating and hanging, so a sorta notchy-ness. On my ST1300, I noticed the wheel spinning and heard a distinctive thumping but also, when the wheel stopped spinning, it would go the opposite direction. That was indicating the u-joint was binding and holding some tension.
This is the video for my ST1300, I know not apples to apples comparison but, a u-joint failure on a bmw might be similar:
3 - Remove the drive shaft during your 12k intervals and see if you notice any binding or visual degradation.
I'm sure BMW will have some complicated way to inspect these, probably involves an expensive driveshaft inspection tool LOL.
I personally plan to do the 1-3 steps above and may replace my DS every 80k miles, if it doesn't show any issues from the steps above. You really don't see DS failures that often... Given how many BMS bikes are out there with drive shafts you'd think there would be a failure every week. So, some of this is yelling fire in a movie theater due to BMWs TSB update to cover their possible legal issues.
I'm not really worried about any of this all that much, I see it like a wheel bearing issue and another one of those things you have to look out for but rare enough to not be all that concerned, just notice anything unusual.
FWIW- I believe that a check of u joint (check) requires moving the u joint through its entire range and feeling for wear or any “notchy” feeling.
An exception would be if the u joint was visible and a ring of rust is visible. The rust ring is a clear indicator of trouble.
OM
An exception would be if the u joint was visible and a ring of rust is visible. The rust ring is a clear indicator of trouble.
OM
dduelin
Unregistered User
My 2007 RT has 154,xxx miles. Maybe it's whistling past the graveyard but with my bike I occasionally check like this. With the bike on the center stand I open the rear caliper so the brake pads do not create any wiping drag and the wheel is free to turn without brake drag. With the engine stone cold I start it and let it idle in neutral. The rear wheel will begin to turn slowly. I watch for any unevenness in how the wheel starts to turn that might indicated a catch, rough spot, or bind in the front & rear U joint bearings. I turn it off and feel a few revolutions by hand, both forward & backward, and short forward and backward movements listening to soft sounds of the bearings and splines taking up play.
I replaced the original driveshaft at 120,500 miles with a remanufactured unit that has flush grease fittings. Machine Services in Green Bay WI rebuilt a used driveshaft I had previously purchased. Prior to install I took the reman shaft to a drive line service business my employer did business with and asked them to fully grease the bearings with whatever grease they recommended before I installed it. After 25,000 miles I pulled it out and took it back for regreasing and an opinion on how it seemed to be wearing. To the technician it felt like no detectable wear. I'll pull it back out after 36,000 more miles and repeat if there are no other problems detected with periodic visual and audio checks.
I replaced the original driveshaft at 120,500 miles with a remanufactured unit that has flush grease fittings. Machine Services in Green Bay WI rebuilt a used driveshaft I had previously purchased. Prior to install I took the reman shaft to a drive line service business my employer did business with and asked them to fully grease the bearings with whatever grease they recommended before I installed it. After 25,000 miles I pulled it out and took it back for regreasing and an opinion on how it seemed to be wearing. To the technician it felt like no detectable wear. I'll pull it back out after 36,000 more miles and repeat if there are no other problems detected with periodic visual and audio checks.
riderr1150gsadv
Well-known member
What OM said, and it is the prime moment to lube the splines on BOTH sides. May people only focus on the rear splines but I have seen the carnage at my dealer when the front splines have rusted up as well. Admittedly a fairly rare occurrence but possible none the less.. YMMV
Here's more info on the driveshaft and final drives than you want to know:
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/threads/a-guide-to-the-hexhead-camhead-final-drive-and-shaft-drive.96845/
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/threads/a-guide-to-the-hexhead-camhead-final-drive-and-shaft-drive.96845/
