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Got my 2012 GSA up to Tuktoyaktuk

StLouRider

Member
A one post ride report.. 17 days 9,300 miles. Left St Louis June 11, returned June 28. Had goals of riding to the Arctic Ocean and seeing a bit of Alaska. Had it in my head to get it done before 70. So, two months shy of my 70th birthday I took off.
Uneventful ride across Missouri, Kansas, and eastern Colorado. I took 36 across this time. I never take I-70. Got over to Fort Morgan CO. About 800 miles on day one. It got better from there. Day two took me through Wyoming, including the Snowy River Range, and on up to Mackay ID. I love riding in Idaho, so I enjoyed day three immensely. My third night was up in Leavenworth WA. First time riding much in Washington state. I need to go back. I’m pretty sure I didn’t see the best parts. Then on day 4 up into Canada. Two nights in Canada then into Tok AK. A trip down to Valdez, which was beautiful. Then over to Anchorage for an oil change. Up to Denali, where I just got a glimpse of it. Over the Denali Highway, where I spent the night in a “supposedly” haunted cabin along the Maclaren River. The Denali highway was a great day.
I didn’t realize how great a day it would be, riding the Denali. Just beautiful views all along the way. The next day I got up early, went back through Tok, and on up to the Top of the World highway. Went to Chicken, but caught it with about 50 other bikers. Too crowded for me. I pushed on to and through Dawson, and camped near the Dawson airport. The next day I got an early start on the Dempster, had lunch in Eagle Plains, and pushed on to Inuvik. Camped there, then got up early on the 20th of June and started for Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean. It’s not a long distance from Inuvik to Tuk, but it’s by far the most challenging stretch of the trip. It tricks you into thinking, this isn’t going to be too bad, then the road gives you its true personality. I was fortunate and went up during dry times. The road had a hard base, but had 2” of loose marble like one inch stones spread over the top. Every vehicle before me had left its wake through the loose gravel. My loaded GSA fought me every mile. About 30 miles from Tuk, I actually contemplated just turning back. Every mile you go means another mile you have to go through it coming back. But I couldn’t quit once I got that close. So I pushed on and made it by about 10:00 am. Took a few pics, and had lunch. I couldn’t get the return trip off my mind. As it turns out going back was much easier. I’m not sure why. I got back to Inuvik in time for dinner,then got up early and completed the Dempster, and went on down to Pelly Crossing. Found a free campsite and enjoyed a mountain house dinner.
I made my biggest blunder of the trip the next day. I got to Carmack, and decided to get in one more scenic gravel road. So I got on the Robert Campbell highway to Watson Lake. About an hour in, the skies opened up. I ended up slogging through mud and muck for hours. A weather check, or just turning back would have avoided some misery. Ha..
After that, I went on down to Dawson Creek, then to Canmore BC, and back into the US. A night in Billings, then Sioux Falls and then home. Great ride. Very glad I did it. My “new to me” 2012 1200GSA ran flawlessly. I did the whole trip on one set of tires. (Dunlop Trail Max Missions) they did great. No issues or complaints from me. The BMW dealer in Anchorage was nice to get me in for an oil change. But next time I’ll do my own. I’m used to doing it, but was feeling lazy, and they are very proud of their work up there.
If I go back, it’ll probably be in the pickup pulling our camper. I’d like my wife to see it. Alaska, the Yukon, and the Northwest Territories are amazing and worth the effort to get there.

Here’s a link to my photobucket album for the trip. This is way easier than trying to bring over all the pics one at a time.
 
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You had some beautiful sky's that few days north and around Dawson City! What camera or phone in use for the photos?
A dozen of those, at least... are truly first class quality! Congrats on the accomplishment and Thanks for the trip report.
Really makes me want to go back to the region again.
 
You had some beautiful sky's that few days north and around Dawson City! What camera or phone in use for the photos?
A dozen of those, at least... are truly first class quality! Congrats on the accomplishment and Thanks for the trip report.
Really makes me want to go back to the region again.
I just used my iPhone 15. I really wish I had something I could have got to easier. Many of the moose, especially the big bulls would run into the woods as soon as I got in sight. I think the moose are hunted up there vs the moose we see in the national parks. So they are a bit more cautious. I needed to be faster.
Thanks
 
Interesting photos. I have a couple of questions - did you have an extra long telephoto lens adapter on your iPhone camera? And, what kind of "dogs" are these by the side of the road? :)

View attachment 98388View attachment 98389View attachment 98390
They were just along side the road. I went past them in almost every instance, and then stopped for the picture. I actually shut the bike down for black bears. With grizzlies, I left it running. They really paid me little attention.
 
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Be afraid of the black ones….be very afraid of the brown ones…be spectacularly afraid of the white ones.

There’s a polar bear with two cubs that is patrolling the shore now in Tuktoyaktuk. I’m not sure if they shut the campground down, at least to tents, when a polar bear is present. I’d be afraid to be in my tent knowing they (polar bears) were around.
 
Truck or van camper next time for me up there.. at a BEAR minimum!
Cheated "unfortunate" once successfully... that was enough.
70 next birthday, and OK with cabin heat, wipers & floor mats.
 
Truck or van camper next time for me up there.. at a BEAR minimum!
Cheated "unfortunate" once successfully... that was enough.
70 next birthday, and OK with cabin heat, wipers & floor mats.
I can’t believe it. But I am entertaining thoughts of going back. Still more up there I’d like to see. Memories always seem to be less stressful as time goes by. I might put the GSA on a trailer next time and start in northern Montana, or just fly up and rent.
 
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