Greetings, This is my first post since becoming a member late last year. My wife and I have returned to motorcycling after a 20 year break raising a family. I recently got a one-piece Roadcrafter Light suit and I love it, but am curious how others “wear” the suit when stopped and off the bike. I thought it would be easy to unzip the upper body part and let it hang so I could stay cool while not moving, leaving the bottom half on. What I find is that with the weight of the suit, it won’t stay up on my hips and the sleeves drag the ground. I’ve tried zipping it up as far as I can, which just below my sternum, but it’s still a bit unmanageable. I’ve imagined various “solutions” to this, but thought I’d ask the collective as there are so many of these suits in the field over the 40 year history and I’m sure I’m not the first to encounter this. Thanks in advance for tips and advice.
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First Aerostich Suit - a newbie question to the vets…
- Thread starter gregw63
- Start date
kickstandsup
Well-known member
You've hit on one of the issues with a 'stich one-piece. Over the years, I've owned 5 of them, 3 myself and 2 for my wife.
In the situation you describe, they are really designed to just "take it off" and walk around in whatever street clothes you've got under. In the summer, for me, that was shorts, shirt and riding boots...it's a look.
When you take it off, though, you have the problem of "where do I put this?" We used to call ours Bob and Shelia b/c you need 2 extra chairs at any restaurant for your "guests."
We still own 2 of the "classic" suits, but use them for cool weather riding and in uncrowded places. For everything else, we've switched to 2-piece Rev It gear.
In the situation you describe, they are really designed to just "take it off" and walk around in whatever street clothes you've got under. In the summer, for me, that was shorts, shirt and riding boots...it's a look.
When you take it off, though, you have the problem of "where do I put this?" We used to call ours Bob and Shelia b/c you need 2 extra chairs at any restaurant for your "guests."
We still own 2 of the "classic" suits, but use them for cool weather riding and in uncrowded places. For everything else, we've switched to 2-piece Rev It gear.
kickstandsup
Well-known member
Oh, one other idea...if you have the back protector, use the belt, it will help hold the suit at your waist when you take your arms out and let it hang.
CaptCF
Pontificating Nobody
Never owned a 'stich, but we solved this problem in the dive community with drysuits by installing suspenders inside the suit (they are attached inside the suit around the waist area). When you doff the top half of the suit you just let it hang from the suspenders and loosely tie the arms around your waist.
I've had a one-piece classic roadcrafter suit since 1996. I got a new one a few years ago and also have a Darien jacket and pants. The Classic 'stich is lined and substantially warmer than the Darien. The Darien is more waterproof (if all vents are fully closed, if open, not so waterproof).
When I stop for a bit, e.g. get lunch I will remove the one-piece 'stich. If there is room at the booth or eating area, I will drape the removed 'stich over a chair. I also routinely carry a longish (6 feet) cable and lock. I pass the cable through the leg and arm of the 'stich and lock it to the bike. Careful not to let the suit rest against some thing hot (exhaust).
In the higher humidity part of the eastern US I find the classic one-piece 'stich to be useful up to the 80 - 85 defF range. I am usually wearing shorts and t-shirt beneath the 'stich.
When I stop for a bit, e.g. get lunch I will remove the one-piece 'stich. If there is room at the booth or eating area, I will drape the removed 'stich over a chair. I also routinely carry a longish (6 feet) cable and lock. I pass the cable through the leg and arm of the 'stich and lock it to the bike. Careful not to let the suit rest against some thing hot (exhaust).
In the higher humidity part of the eastern US I find the classic one-piece 'stich to be useful up to the 80 - 85 defF range. I am usually wearing shorts and t-shirt beneath the 'stich.
kbasa
Well-known member
Take them off and use a big Kryptonite cable lock through the arms and your helmet chin bars to lock them to the bike. They're a pain in the butt to walk around in and their biggest advantage is being able to take them off in two seconds. I used to carry some flip flops or Vans or something to get out of my boots, too.
kickstandsup
Well-known member
Always carry a cable and lock, very handy for locking up gear, helmets, bike covers, the bike itself...yada, yada...
Works less well for locking gear to the bike when it's raining...and a wet one-piece makes a big puddle.
If you never get off the bike, the one piece 'stich is terrific.
Works less well for locking gear to the bike when it's raining...and a wet one-piece makes a big puddle.
If you never get off the bike, the one piece 'stich is terrific.
Personally I have never tested the crash worthiness of my 'stich. I understand that others have; apocryphal stories abound on the 'net.
There is some discussion on the aerostich website pertaining to falls and crashes, link below -
I did like the offer of "break-in" services to overcome the new "stiff suit syndrome"
Aerostich Suit Break In Service
A brand new Aerostich Roadcrafter or Darien can be a bit stiff when it first arrives. Breaking it in to the soft, supple, ultra-comfortable protective garment it is destined to become has always required riding hundreds (or thousands) of miles through all imaginable weather conditions to achieve...
www.aerostich.com
kickstandsup
Well-known member
The CE A/AA/AAA standards are set by the EU, same for CE level 1 and level 2 armor. Aerostich does not test their suits to those standards. Personally, I've always felt very protected in a fully armored 'stich (adding hip and back protectors).
From their website:
CRASH AND ABRASION CONSIDERATIONS?
Compared to leather of the same weight and thick-ness, Cordura® nylon is a stronger material. But hides are thicker and heavier so they offer greater abrasion resistance. We repair about twenty or thirty Aerostich garments a month. About a third of these were in crashes that produced some abrasion damage. Several common themes have emerged. Though Aerostich suits are not as abrasion resistant as racing leathers, they offer significant and useful protection, especially at typical street speeds. Aerostich wearers often think of their suit as “sacrificial” in the same way a car’s airbag gets used up by its deployment. These garments are lighter, cooler and easier to use in bad weather (etc.), but less crash-durable than leathers. On average, street riders seem to crash only at infrequent intervals. How gear feels and works during the intervening years of use and the tens of thousands of miles of riding is very important. Most street crashes occur between 20 and 50 mph, not between 50 and 100. For each Roadcrafter suit that was in a 100 mph crash, we get dozens that need smaller repairs because the rider fell down at 35 mph. For these kinds of everyday spills, even the fanciest leathers do not offer protective advantages. We make gear to help you use a motorcycle more and be better protected. It has to be safe, easy to use, and comfortable for everyday riding.NYLON AND FRICTION?
Although we have not conducted tests comparing the friction coefficients of Cordura® suits to leathers on various pavement surfaces, we have collected a significant amount of relevant information. We repair many Aerostich suits every year, and most of these are damaged by sliding on all kinds of pavements. Many of the wearers (testers...?) had previous crash experiences with leathers. Post-crash wearers typically comment that their Aerostich was “slipperier” than their old leathers. The consensus is that Cordura® slides a little better and tends to roll and tumble the wearer somewhat less than leather. After studying hundreds of accidents, former Motorcyclist magazine editor and professional accident reconstructionist Gordon Jennings believed that more crash injuries (broken shoulders, etc.) were caused by tumbling than by the incrementally increased chances of hitting something due to sliding farther.“NOT CE APPROVED” LABELS?
CE impact standards involve both energy absorption capability and pad shape and size. Aerostich TF pads do not match these European standards because of their shapes, not their energy absorption capabilities. In hard-shelled areas, TF armor tested significantly better than most other CE approved armor. Around the softer edges, it tests lower. TF armor was tested at a CE lab in England and using a duplicate of the test apparatus here. TF pads were developed (years before CE standards existed) to provide effective protection when fitted into the over suit designs of Roadcrafters and Dariens. Because of this, TF pads allow comfort with various combinations of street clothing better than CE shapes. Roadcrafter suits were the first riders garments in the world to use removable armor pad systems, and to use an advanced energy absorbing material like TF. When we introduced TF armor, all protective garments, including road racing suits, featured sewn-in padding made from felt, foam rubber or other less effective materials. Legal Notice: These garments are not considered to be “personal protective equipment” as defined in or within the scope of, the personal protective equipment (EC Directive) regulations 1992 (S.I.1992/3139) and no liability will be accepted arising out of these garments non-compliance with such regulations.
kbasa
Well-known member
I went off in mine when I got Uturned. I was going about 25 or 30 hit a car and flew about ten or fifteen feet like Superman. Hands hit first (Held Steve gloves), then face (C2), then chest and feet. I needed a new helmet, bu5 my ‘stitch was undamaged. Same for my gloves and boots.
My only injury was a strained ligament in my right shoulder. I was applying maximum brake pressure when I hit the car and got ejected off the bike.
Others I know have come off in ‘stichs at higher speeds and have done well and avoided abrasions. If you have a two piece, they need to be zipped together so the top doesn’t ride up in a slide and expose your midsection. Don’t make that mistake.
I’m super particular about gloves and it paid off that day. No damage to my hands at all. That’s why I pay $200 for gloves instead of the Wells Lamont gardening gloves I once wore.
My only injury was a strained ligament in my right shoulder. I was applying maximum brake pressure when I hit the car and got ejected off the bike.
Others I know have come off in ‘stichs at higher speeds and have done well and avoided abrasions. If you have a two piece, they need to be zipped together so the top doesn’t ride up in a slide and expose your midsection. Don’t make that mistake.
I’m super particular about gloves and it paid off that day. No damage to my hands at all. That’s why I pay $200 for gloves instead of the Wells Lamont gardening gloves I once wore.
This is what I was looking for, and not “just take the suit off”. I will give this a try. I hadn’t thought of it. Thanks!
kickstandsup
Well-known member
+1 on Held gloves...been wearing Steve's forever, love them. For the summer, I like their Airstream 3.0, very comfortable, great protection (even better than the Steves IMO), flow a decent amount of air.
Air Stream 3.0
Held Technologies Click to learn more Product information "Air Stream 3.0" Protection certified under norm EN 13594:2015 "protective glove for motorcyclists" Side of hand has hard plastic protection with leather covering hard plastic knuckle protection knuckle protection tested (impact...
rideheld.com
I really like how Held gloves seem to fit consistently across their models, makes buying online easier.
In 2023, I stopped into their "Flagship Store" in Germany...a giant candy store for riders.
kbasa
Well-known member
@kickstandsup those gloves look great. Thanks for the pointer.
You know it. I specifically look for extra leather on the heel of the palm, a layer up the side of the finger and a strap to keep them on my hands if I'm sliding with my hands trailing. Rivets or other sliding material on the palm should not allow a vector for friction heat to get to my hand.
As a person living in the Bay Area, fog is a thing we live with all the time, so the visor wiper is a key component for me.
I've tried to rinse the salt from my sweaty hands out of them in the summer to keep them alive longer, but I usually wear them out when the index fingers wear through at the tips. It usually takes a few years, at least.
I'd lose my mind and my money in that place. I've seen some Held leather riding suits that feel like pure luxury; the leather is so fine.
You know it. I specifically look for extra leather on the heel of the palm, a layer up the side of the finger and a strap to keep them on my hands if I'm sliding with my hands trailing. Rivets or other sliding material on the palm should not allow a vector for friction heat to get to my hand.
As a person living in the Bay Area, fog is a thing we live with all the time, so the visor wiper is a key component for me.
I've tried to rinse the salt from my sweaty hands out of them in the summer to keep them alive longer, but I usually wear them out when the index fingers wear through at the tips. It usually takes a few years, at least.
I'd lose my mind and my money in that place. I've seen some Held leather riding suits that feel like pure luxury; the leather is so fine.
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