Failure on left turn signal switch '05 R1200RT

[pv_bmw]

I have a 2005 R1200rt, and my left turn signal switch has stopped working. The bulbs are OK, as the flashers are working. BMW wants $400 for a new switch, as the switch is on a panel with the ESA controls. I cannot even figure out how to get to the switch, let alone replace it myself. Anyone else have this problem? Is there a more economical fix? Thanks in advance
Pat

 

[deilenberger]

Hi Pat,

Welcome to the forums, and please read: http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=46055

I've added that info to the thread title. Please do so yourself in future posts.

Question - who determined it was the switch at fault? I would want confirmation of the failure with a diagnostics tool before laying out $400. Someone with a tool like the GS-911 can monitor the "switch-state" and see what the ZFE module (that the switch talks to - and that turns the bulb on and off) thinks it's seeing.

As far as replacing it - the entire switch assembly comes off and gets replaced. No individual parts are available.. but this isn't a common failure item, so a used one would seem to be much less expensive and probably as good as new.

 

[pv_bmw]

Don, thanks for the heads up, will do in the future. And yes, a diagnostic test was performed to confirm. And no, I have not been able to find a used one. So, since I do value my life, I will eat this one. Not happy about it. Appreciate your response.
Pat

 

[greenwald]

Don, thanks for the heads up, will do in the future. And yes, a diagnostic test was performed to confirm. And no, I have not been able to find a used one. So, since I do value my life, I will eat this one. Not happy about it. Appreciate your response.
Pat

Beemer Boneyard?

 

[Tonyfr]

Try this guy listed in the flea market. I bought the heated grips from him. LINK

 

[pv_bmw]

Tony-appreciate the link, wished I had seen it sooner. I am not the sharpest knife in the kitchen, somewhat tech-challenged. This will teach me to be more patient. I bit the bullet and ordered one from the dealer, considering the safety issue. I commute 45 miles to work, in traffic. Thanks again.
Pat

 

[Rinty]

Don:

What's your opinion on spraying electrical contact cleaner or lube, into the switches?

I have some specialty stuff that I use, but it has a warning that it's "safe for most plastics". But I would think that the automotive grade plastic in our bikes is pretty tough.

...the entire switch assembly gets replaced...deilenberger

I wonder if its possible to disassemble these things and see if there's something that's fixable. Alex (GlobalRider) has had some success disassembling and upgrading some Porsche electrical pieces.

 

[globalrider]

I wonder if its possible to disassemble these things and see if there's something that's fixable.

Well something that is confirmed "not working" or "broken", what do you have to lose?

Rin, as for using a contact cleaner, you can always spray some into the cap and using a Q-Tip swab the plastic to see if it is affected by the cleaner.

I don't fit well into our throw-away-society (I must have some Dutch and Scottish blood) and tend to fix things, usually to an improved state. We're just rebuilding an alternator. I also found out how cheap re-builders (even big name re-builders) get when it comes to what they use/include in their rebuilds. Consumer beware!

 

[deilenberger]

Rinty,

I'd agree with Alex.. the part is now broken. It has to be replaced. Worst that could happen is it has to be replaced if the cleaner screwed it up. So - no downside. Upside is - it might improve.

Let us know how it works out..

 

[bdimon]

I had the same problem

I had the same problem and tried spraying contact cleaner into the switch. It fixed mine.

 

[pv_bmw]

Bruce, that worked for me once also, but only for a short time. How many miles do you have on yours? I am at 59,000. Got caught in a heavy downpour is what did mine in finally, couldn't revive it a second time.
Pat

 

[bdimon]

Bruce, that worked for me once also, but only for a short time. How many miles do you have on yours? I am at 59,000. Got caught in a heavy downpour is what did mine in finally, couldn't revive it a second time.
Pat

Sorry I took so long to reply; I am a trip. The issue started about 49,000 miles and I disassembled the handle bar housing and squirted in the contact cleaner. The bike now has about 55,000 miles and the problem has not recurred.

 

[racer7]

Re those contact cleaners- I've used a variety and used to have supply of stuff meant to clean color TV mechanical tuner switches that worked well. Also like Deoxit, an item you can often find at Radio Shack.

 

[rtwiz]

I found a video using google. "R1200RT Turn Signal Switch" was the search.

There is a replacement part you can buy from Digikey. The number is K12C 1 5N. Check out the two videos that show up on the search before buying to make sure you're on board with this fix. It's a little involved. Soldering and digging out plastic bits as well as opening up the multi-switch and cutting and then re-splicing a couple wires. Not rocket science, but not for the timid.

If I can find a replacement multi-switch as a crash part, I may go that way instead.

Good luck!

 

[Jeff488]

I had a left turn switch go bad on an '04 R1150RT. I think the internal push buttons are the same as the 1200's.
I bought a used multifunction switch, took it apart and removed the push button switch.
Disassembled my multi-switch and removed the bad button.
Spliced the wires of the replacement button into the harness on the bike.
Put the button in my handlebar unit and replaced it on the bar.
It was a bit fiddly, but not difficult, plus I have a small supply of buttons for future use.
Way cheaper than a new handlebar unit!

 

[rtwiz]

I had a left turn switch go bad on an '04 R1150RT. I think the internal push buttons are the same as the 1200's.
I bought a used multifunction switch, took it apart and removed the push button switch.
Disassembled my multi-switch and removed the bad button.
Spliced the wires of the replacement button into the harness on the bike.
Put the button in my handlebar unit and replaced it on the bar.
It was a bit fiddly, but not difficult, plus I have a small supply of buttons for future use.
Way cheaper than a new handlebar unit!

Jeff:

I had an 1150 as well. I think the turn signals are different. I sold that bike and don't have it around for comparison. Had an 1100RT, an 1150RT and this 1200RT, which I'll keep for a long time. I like it 200% better than either of the earlier bikes. I think the buttons changed on the 1200.

Anyway, I bought the Digikey part for $3 (+$5 shipping). If I'm going to splice wires anyway, may as well have the new part and pay less. I found a multi-switch for $35 on eBay that fits my bike...but it looks a little ratty.

 

[Jeff488]

I'm with you 100% on the improvement of hexheads over oilheads!

The hexhead swithches are different, but I bet the buttons inside are the same. Maybe not, but after watching the video referenced above, they sure look the same as what I recall.

Anyway, my 1150 has gone to wherever totalled bikes end up.

 

[rtwiz]

I'm with you 100% on the improvement of hexheads over oilheads!

The hexhead swithches are different, but I bet the buttons inside are the same. Maybe not, but after watching the video referenced above, they sure look the same as what I recall.

Anyway, my 1150 has gone to wherever totalled bikes end up.

Jeff:

Ouch! Sorry to hear that. That's the wrong way to end a relationship with a bike!

I crashed my 1969 BSA Rocket 3 (Like a Triumph Trident), that I bought from a guy at work. I think that high speed crash without proper gear, only a helmet, was in 1982. I didn't replace that bike. The guy who sold it to me bought it back for $25 to make a go-kart with the engine. 10 years later, he asked for his money back. Claimed the block was cracked.

My dad passed later that year in '82 at age 57 with a bad succession plan. I had to leverage-buy his company from my family. There was nothing but work and debt for the next 15 years. My creditors and family would not have been happy to see me on another bike. Back then, you didn't need to run with headlights..and no one did. The guy I was riding with got rear-ended within a week of my incident.

I got a BMW 2002tii as my only car in 1978. I did autocross events with it on weekends and one track day that didn't go very well. No crashing but just an abusive instructor that turned me away from that activity for a long time. Just maintaining that tii was a life-style. Solid lifters, rust issues, a steering box that leaked constantly and had to be refilled every few weeks, Kugelsfischer mechanical injection, old-style points, plugs and condensor (eventually replaced with something called "Luminition" which worked with a little plastic fan-blade running across an electric eye instead of points...much better. I kept that car until '88, supplementing it with a company car for work, then sold it and bought a use 911SC, which was cool, but was not good at track or autocross. Really expensive to keep as well. Traded it for a used '89 M3 in '91 or '92. (No one wanted those cars back then. I got a real bargain!) Then I sold that one and bought a NEW '95 M3. It was delivered on Dec 10 '94. I picked it up in the rain and drove it home in a surprise blizzard. Took 4 tries to get up my almost flat driveway on summer tires.

When my mom passed in '99, I bought a 6 month old '99 R1100RT. I rode it 62,000 miles. It surged. I was constantly tuning it but when it was right, it was a pretty nice bike to ride. Terrible headlight. I put some aux driving lights on it, a set of Ohlins shocks and a Fuel Nannie...the old kind that had 3 adjusters on it. If you set it rich, you could pull wheelies, but it would really suck fuel.

I did an Edelweiss High Alps Adventure in Europe with a friend. BMW had a promotion where you got money off a new BMW bike if you purchased within 6 months after the Edelweiss trip. I bought a new R1150RT and got a stonking great trade on my R1100. I never got used to the grabby servo brakes on that bike. It was a very pretty bike in that metallic blue color. Dual plugs stopped the surging, but instead of giving more HP, they set them lean and saved a few mpg. Boring! It also seemed to run hotter than the 1100. Headlight much improved though.

I didn't keep the 1150 more than 3 years. I went on another Edelwiess trip, this one to the French Alps. The very first R1200GS was on that trip. There were two of them. My friend got one. I got an 1100S. Werner, the owner of Edelweiss, visited the trip for 2 days. He got the other GS. He came specifically to try it out. I expressed keen interest in it while he was there and he told the ride leader to let me ride it for the remainder of the trip if I wanted to. I loved the thing.

When I got home, I was tempted to buy a GS as soon as they came out in the US, but I held off. GS is just not the right bike for me. Here in Chicago area, you need to ride 200 miles or so to get to decent roads. I wanted a good bike for mile-eating. Also didn't and still don't like the idea of buying the bike, then buying the bags etc. etc. So I waited and got one of the first 3 bikes to hit the dealer. It was still in the crate. I've since put 90K on it and I'm still not feeling like I need something new. It's got enough everything and is easy to maintain and has a good balance of power and handling. I changed the seat, suspension, windscreen and put on my Big Mak mid-sized bag from the 1100/1150. It fits. Wow, is that thing worn out, but I can't find another one. I'll find a shoe repair place this winter to fix it up a bit.

I like the '05 because valve adjustment is the same as my other two bikes and actually uses the same feeler gages and allen wrench that I used with my 2002tii. Cam heads require shims. Water-heads require draining coolant. I can do valves on the side of the road if I want. If I do them carefully, there's no need to synch throttle bodies. I think I've had that done twice since I've owned the bike. Used to spend many hours on that with the 1100. PITA.

I've had this bike completely disassembled. I put all the paintable panels in the car and took them to a body shop for black paint. Now the bike is ONE color, not flat black and graphite. It looks so much better like that to my eye. I get a lot of compliments.

I think I can handle this switch replacement. If not, I'll buy a multi-switch or take to dealer. Sounds like about $450 with labor if the dealer replaces the whole multi-switch. I'm still practical enough that I cringe at paying near $500 to replace a $3 component.

 

[rtwiz]

Don, thanks for the heads up, will do in the future. And yes, a diagnostic test was performed to confirm. And no, I have not been able to find a used one. So, since I do value my life, I will eat this one. Not happy about it. Appreciate your response.
Pat

Pv, Don:

I have the same issue. Same side of the bike. Exact same symptoms. The flashers work if you activate the 4-way with the red button but don't work if you use the left switch. 4-way used to activate by pushing both turn signal switches at the same time. Now, I only get a right-side blinker. Again, if I use the red 4-way flasher button, I get all 4 blinkers working...so it's not bulbs or wiring to the bulbs. It's the switch.

It took some doing and leaving it overnight, sleeping on it and coming back to it. I have the luxury of time on this...and a lot of tools around.

You need a lot of phillips screw drivers. There's an obvious screw facing the rider. There are two on the bottom...one is hidden by a wire going in to the inboard side of the switches. Finally, a very small one in a recess on the side facing away from the rider (front?).

I ordered a switch.

I've got the array disassembled enough to have the actual switch, surrounded by white plastic and some epoxy looking stuff on the bottom exposed....just like the article. I'm going to re-read and then cut the wires. Gulp.

Wish me luck.

At this point, I could try contact cleaner to get the thing working again, but the reports are that it doesn't last. I need it to last. I take my bike everywhere. Replacing the array is no picnic. I don't have ESA but I have Cruise. There are a lot of wires and I can't see where they plug into the bike. Looks like they just go into a massive loom. I suppose I could buy an array and just steal the switch out of it but the replacement switch part doesn't look that hard. i have a Dremel and such. I'm going for it.

If it doesn't work out, I'll try a switch off an array from a wreck. Found one on Ebay and I'm sure there are some others around.

My bike is also an '05. My faulty blinker switch is also on an '05 RT. I don't believe in coinkidynks on this sort of stuff.

The rubber surround around the switch wasn't in good shape. I think maybe they changed the rubber on later models? The rubber probably keeps crap from getting in the switch. When I get it working, I'll tear open the switch and look for evidence of crud.

Not sure what I'll replace that rubber with...maybe a small O-ring? Like I said, projects like this one take time and thought.

I have to say, this bike has been through some stuff. Winter riding, deluge rain-storms etc. I think it was raining last weekend when it failed. Not sure exactly when it happened, but we parked in the rain for 2 hours on Friday. On Sunday, one of the guys I was leading asked me to use my signals more. I thought that odd, then I looked and sure enough...left side gone. I know it was working when I left on this trip. What an odd thing!