robertklee
New member
Thinking about running lights and power socket for GPS on a 60/5. What does that involve and will it be a problem?
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extra electrics on /5
- Thread starter robertklee
- Start date
S
shire2000
Guest
You will require major contributions to the Bosch Electrikery Gods.
That aside, if you still have the stock electrics on your R60/5, you will not have a lot of spare power available. If you are determined to have some "running lights" I would suggest that you upgrade your charging system. Possibly with an Enduralast or Omega system. I have the Enduralast and have more power than I need. I run either driving or fog lights, heated vest, converted turn signals to also be running lights, more powerful headlight, and still have lots left over.
The big thing to look at is how much power does your stock charging system provide versus how much you plan to use. Add up all the power consumption of all the stuff you want to add and make sure you have a little left over.
Check ou the numerous threads on this subject. There is a lot of good info available.
Dave
That aside, if you still have the stock electrics on your R60/5, you will not have a lot of spare power available. If you are determined to have some "running lights" I would suggest that you upgrade your charging system. Possibly with an Enduralast or Omega system. I have the Enduralast and have more power than I need. I run either driving or fog lights, heated vest, converted turn signals to also be running lights, more powerful headlight, and still have lots left over.
The big thing to look at is how much power does your stock charging system provide versus how much you plan to use. Add up all the power consumption of all the stuff you want to add and make sure you have a little left over.
Check ou the numerous threads on this subject. There is a lot of good info available.
Dave
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sumran
Guest
Does the rotor upgrade also require a new stator? I don't know, I'm asking. There is a meaningful power difference.
You should be fine with the GPS, even without the upgrade. The driving lights might be another story.
A
AKinINDY
Guest
I need more power...
I just got a high output conversion for /5's from Motorrad Elektrik. Extra 100W for $200. Not too expensive. Pretty simple install, works like a charm.
You can get it here:
Motorrad Elektrik
I just got a high output conversion for /5's from Motorrad Elektrik. Extra 100W for $200. Not too expensive. Pretty simple install, works like a charm.
You can get it here:
Motorrad Elektrik
Randy -
I'm not sure, but I think it's just a change in resistance of the rotor is what gives the boost. Part of the answer may also be the number of windings in the rotor.
One of the other factors in power generation I think is the distance between the spinning rotor and the stator. The closer the distance, the better the power generation. That's where a new stator might also help.
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shire2000
Guest
Just checked at Max BMW:
Replacement Rotor $329
Replacement Stator $190
Total $519
With the above, you will still only have an 180 Watt output
You can get the complete Omega Upgrade kit for $200 which will give you 280 Watt output which should be more than enough for your needs.
Replacement Rotor $329
Replacement Stator $190
Total $519
With the above, you will still only have an 180 Watt output
You can get the complete Omega Upgrade kit for $200 which will give you 280 Watt output which should be more than enough for your needs.
Motorrad Elektrik has replacement rotors for $125 and rewound ones (exchanges) for $100.
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sumran
Guest
And, unlike me, Rick would know the answer to the stator question.
AnnapolisAirhead
--Tony
Bob's carries the same after market rotor (Nippon-Denso) for $125. I just had to replace mine. At the same time, I upgraded to a Hella electronic voltage regulator which doesn't provide any more power, but it does start full charging at much lower RPMs (like 2100 vs 4200). It was $40 I think, at Bob's.
I just bought a /5 also and will be looking into upgrading to either an Omega or EnDuralast. As I understand all the EnDuralast documentation, it does away with the brushes and (effectively) combines the diode (rectifier) with the voltage regulator and bigger cooling fins. I believe this is how most modern bikes are setup. So no diode board in the front cover and the regulator/rectifier mounts on the frame (either where the existing regulator is or under a side cover if you have room, for better cooling). Also provides 450watts and 29amps--power to spare).
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shire2000
Guest
I installed the Enduralast on my 81 R100RT last winter. Now have more than enough power. I also like the idea of getting rid of the diode board and brushes. The new regulator creates a little more heat than the old one and is larger, but fits under my gas tank just fine. Rode some long days last summer in over 100 degree heat with no issues whatsoever. While I had it all apart, I rewired my built in Fog and Driving lights with heavier wire, new relays to the battery and they now seem a whole lot brighter as well.
Haven't seen the regulator light come on at idle since installation. Idle at around 800RPM, Voltage charging at battery is 13.7 volts at 800RPM and quickly goes up to maximum. I think it was well worth the $500 and the Saturday afternoon to install.
Haven't seen the regulator light come on at idle since installation. Idle at around 800RPM, Voltage charging at battery is 13.7 volts at 800RPM and quickly goes up to maximum. I think it was well worth the $500 and the Saturday afternoon to install.
