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Convert Factory Lowered RT to Std height?

hammbone

New member
I bought a used 2013 R1200RT in March of 2022. 36k miles when I bought it. 44k miles now. I'll give you cliff notes version of my situation, because nobody wants to read a novel:

Fast forward to now.
  • I just did a bunch of "every 2 year" maintenance items.
    • (brake pads, flushed brake fluid, engine oil, gear box oil, FD oil, lubed shaft splines, valve clearance adjustment, spark plugs, new tires.)
  • I'm on my second set of tires and they're starting to cup just like the previous set at only 1200mi.
    • (Previous was Michelin PR4GT's, current are Dunlop RS3's. I run 36psi front 42psi rear).
  • I recently stumbled across this article talking about this exactly. -So I started looking into new shocks.
  • I see there's an option between standard and factory lowered suspesion.
  • I called my dealer and learned my bike was ordered with factory lowered suspension (explains the 1-piece seat and no heated seat).
  • I reached out to Ted Porter. I learned I "could" put my bike at standard height if I buy standard shock/spring assemblies and install the longer and side & center stands.
    • I don't have the longer stand parts (that's more cost)
    • I'd also be interested in a standard 2-piece seat and mount that I don't currently have.
So now it's looking like ~$2k for TracTive shocks, another $200 for used stands, who knows what for a seat? That's almost 25% of what I paid for the bike. (Maybe I should not treat this like a cost benefit analysis).

I'm just trying to figure out if I should keep "investing" in this bike and keep on riding it, or just trade up to a newer R1250RT or GSA. But there's no guarantee that "newer" bike isn't going to need a bunch of stuff too. (Note: This isn't necessarily a "money" thing as much as it is a question of where the smart place is to put the money. This bike or a new/er bike?)
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Wow, you've got a really nice bike. I have a 2010 R1200RT. I too have contemplated upgrading to something newer, ie 2018 as well. But I keep going "I don't have any coolant or radiator to deal with. I only need to change the oil and keep riding..." And that's how I talk myself out of upgrading.

You should consider the idea of hunting down used center and side stands. However your biggest expense will be new front and rear struts. I just did the rebuild/replacement from Ted Porter as well for my 2010. All I can say is "WOW". The new ESA II struts I got were phenomenal, makes the bike feel like new. In my case the factory struts were leaking and literally not doing their job.

I personally never look at the Cost of repairs vs value of bike. If you do then you never will do anything. I look at, "Do I enjoy the bike? Am I happy riding it? What on the newer version that I will value?". In my case. Nothing at this time on the newer bike I will value. I currently don't put enough mileage to justify $$$ for a newer model vs $ I spent on my 2 x new struts from Ted Porter.
 
@hammbone

Additional, I've had to do mods to my 2010 to make it fit myself. Sargent 2 piece to lower it from the stock 2 piece. Tossed out the handle bar risers and peg lowering kits. Hated them. This conversion required I buy extra parts (bolts) and used pegs to undo the lower. Bolts I bought from the dealer and the stock pegs I bought used from beemerboneyard or ebay.
 
Wow, you've got a really nice bike. I have a 2010 R1200RT. I too have contemplated upgrading to something newer, ie 2018 as well. But I keep going "I don't have any coolant or radiator to deal with. I only need to change the oil and keep riding..." And that's how I talk myself out of upgrading.

You should consider the idea of hunting down used center and side stands. However your biggest expense will be new front and rear struts. I just did the rebuild/replacement from Ted Porter as well for my 2010. All I can say is "WOW". The new ESA II struts I got were phenomenal, makes the bike feel like new. In my case the factory struts were leaking and literally not doing their job.

I personally never look at the Cost of repairs vs value of bike. If you do then you never will do anything. I look at, "Do I enjoy the bike? Am I happy riding it? What on the newer version that I will value?". In my case. Nothing at this time on the newer bike I will value. I currently don't put enough mileage to justify $$$ for a newer model vs $ I spent on my 2 x new struts from Ted Porter.
Thanks for the kind words.

I've thought about this a lot in the past few days. I'm leaning towards keeping this bike for all the reasons you mentioned.

So being a factory low suspension, it did not come with ESA. I'm convinced I need new shocks regardless and will probably go with the TracTive manual units.

I'm just toying with whether I should keep it as is and buy low suspension shocks, or convert to standard height. I guess I don't have an issue with it as is and wouldn't have known different had I not looked into this.

The only major question is; would there be a benefit from gaining an inch of suspension travel?
 
To me the more pertinent question is whether or not you need the lower seat height that comes from the lower suspension. If you don't then I would go with standard height.
For what it's worth I have a 2013 (basically the same bike as yours) with standard height suspension. I'm 5'9" with a 30" inseam.
I ride a 50/50 mix of solo and two up and never have a problem with the seat height.
 
To me the more pertinent question is whether or not you need the lower seat height that comes from the lower suspension. If you don't then I would go with standard height.
For what it's worth I have a 2013 (basically the same bike as yours) with standard height suspension. I'm 5'9" with a 30" inseam.
I ride a 50/50 mix of solo and two up and never have a problem with the seat height.
I absolutely don't "need" the lowered suspension or seat. I'm 6'3" with a 30" inseam (short legs long torso) and I wouldn't have ordered this bike this way. Also, I'll admit that I didn't completely know about all of this when I was shopping.
Nevertheless, here I am and contemplating if it's "worth" converting it back to standard. (Meaning, would I be more comfortable? I can't really complain now but im also just a 28mi per day commuter and havent done any long rides yet). Unfortunately, I don't know what standard feels like so I don't have a reference point.
 
I absolutely don't "need" the lowered suspension or seat. I'm 6'3" with a 30" inseam (short legs long torso) and I wouldn't have ordered this bike this way. Also, I'll admit that I didn't completely know about all of this when I was shopping.
Nevertheless, here I am and contemplating if it's "worth" converting it back to standard. (Meaning, would I be more comfortable? I can't really complain now but im also just a 28mi per day commuter and havent done any long rides yet). Unfortunately, I don't know what standard feels like so I don't have a reference point.
Find a standard bike to test ride and compare it to yours and then you can make a choice.
 
I am 5'9" and weigh 170lb without gear. 30" inseam. I agree with your idea of manual suspension with Traktive Suspension. Since you don't have ESA, you want to retain the ability to adjust in case you carry extra load. So yes it is worth going back to standard height.
 
I love my '13 and consider it the best year RT ever made (it's the only camhead that doesn't come with the jiggly brake and clutch reservoirs that inevitably fail and it has a float instead of a fuel strip - the other big failure point in these bikes).

I'd say buy a new set of shocks tailored for you and raise the bike back up. If Ted Porter's is too pricey, check out EPM Performance as they also offer Hyperpro and seem to be more competitively priced.

As for the side-stand and center stand, just buy used. One quick glance and I found a set of both for less than $100 on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3353669752...uid=hm02rM1LSwS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
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