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Considering Canisterectomy - What does this thing do?

codfish

Member
Trying to decide if I'm going to actually do the deed to my 96 R1100RT and remove the entire charcoal canister system. In trying to understand better the routing of the fumes from the tank to the injectors I have this nagging question.

Is the electrically powered device in the center of my photo what causes or powers the vacuum in the system?
My examination of the routing of tubes in the system tells me it is.

Capping the inlet tubes on the bottom of the injectors and capping the canister vent tube on the fuel tank nipple that supplies the fumes to the canister appears to be the only places you need to cap off to eliminate escaping fumes while bike is parked in the garage.

You can't cap the tank vent tube, which is the second vent line exiting the tank, directly back to the swingarm area where it is left dangling at your right heel.

Do I have this right?
 

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  • 2026-04-08 16-01.pdf
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I can't help specifically, but there's lots of content on the forum when I did a search for "canisterectomy". Might be some interesting reading.
 
Since I am having trouble decreasing my photo file size, I have scanned the photo using "Genius Scan". If you click on the photo icon it should download the file to your computer where it can be opened on your screen.

Hope I have the process correct. Works on my Mac Book.
 
Using the “Tag Cloud”,
This thread looks informative-


OM
 
20774, thanks for the reply. I too have looked and looked at the videos but none talk about where the vacuum is applied. The size of the little device causes me to question it as the culprit.
 
The vacuum comes from the two throttle bodies; once they're disconnected and capped off, that section is done.
The little device is a solenoid that opens and closes the path between the canister and the TBs;
once that is unplugged (and just black duct tape over the "bike" side for protection), it does nothing more.
I don't recall the 1100s exactly, but on my 1150, the final result has two lines draining on to the ground (you can tee these together if you want) - the fuel tank vent and the drain from the ring around the gas tank's cap.
 
I too have looked and looked at the videos but none talk about where the vacuum is applied. The size of the little device causes me to question it as the culprit.
There are 2 "vent lines" from the tank. One, that goes to the cannister is the tank vent. The other should be directed to the foot peg plate is the water drain from the fill cap area. The tank vent hose should be connected to the hose that exits the cannister down to the peg plate. Neither of these hoses should be capped or closed. The piece in question (did not look at the photos) I think called a purge valve, opens to allow the tank to vent fumes to the cannister and exit into the throttle bodies, The purge valve can be left there or removed; it won't be connected to anything, so it won't matter.
 

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Cap that relay on both sides, but leave it plugged in. The ECU may look at that load to alter fueling.
- 2004 models, unplugging the relay will put the ECU in Closed loop mode and it'll run rich.

Then cap the air box port that runs into that relay.
Run the line that used to go from the tank to the relay straight to the ground where it will act as a tank overflow.
 
I actually forget if I left mine connected or not (kick me repeatedly), but the plugs look fine and it runs great...
 
Make sure not to cap the tank vent. If you are not sure which line vents the tank, plug them both. Run the bike around the block. Open the filler neck. If it hisses you’ve plugged the tank vent. I think an RT tank is plastic. If so it would take a lot of suction to permanently deform the tank. S-bikes have an aluminum tank. It is a work of art (and arcs when removing it and touching the positive terminal of the battery, which when all buttoned up properly, is about 1/2 “ from the tank.

I don’t think a plugged vent will deform the S aluminum tank; it didn’t when I made that mistake.
 
I think an RT tank is plastic. If so it would take a lot of suction to permanently deform the tank.
It is plastic. And it takes less suction to temporarily deform the tank enough to permanently deform the fuel gauge sending unit. This is one of the big reasons for removing the canister in the first place; to avoid damaging that sender.
 
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