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Broken Main Cable Housing to twist grip prevent Starting? Solved

billhilow

Member
At the cable splitter I cracked the main cable plastic elbow. The rubber seal is intact as is the cable itself. I can't get the bike to start. Turns over fine, but no apparent spark? The bike is ridden daily. 40,000 miles. Runs like a champ. I installed a onboard camera system. While fishing the rear Camera line behind the fairing cover I snagged it.

It did cause the throttle cable to become slack. Should I simulate the usual position via test rig and try? Can just the housing be replaced or am I looking into a new cable assembly?

Thank you!

s Main Cable.jpg1000007669.jpg
 
Would be helpful to add the year, and model of your Oilhead to your post.
Good luck.
OM
 
Not knowing which bike this is, that kinda looks more like the fuel distributor than a throttle part (can anybody please clarify?); any breakage in the distributor would stop the bike. Can't speak for the throttle cabling.
BTW, that skinny vertical hose looks squished about half-way up, and possibly kinked at the top.
 
2006 R1200RT WITH CRUISE CONTROL. Bike turns over fine it just doesn't appear that I'm getting any ignition I'm at the stage where I'm removing the fuel tank to see if I mucked anything up while fishing a camera cable through the Left side opening and yanking it back out abruptly. There's a lot of stuff back there I can't see because the fuel tank is in the way I've siphoned out the tank I've got the fairings pulled off. I suspect it the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor. Something's amiss. I'm extra careful when I drilled holes to mount everything. I didn't go too deep and I used a roto cutter that inhibits cutting through the hole and anything behind it. It simply cuts to a preset depth which I had set. The 1/8 of an inch. Side stand up, clutch in and still won't start. 13. Volts at the battery. Seems like an electrical issue. Don't hear the fuel pump pressurize and I'm getting a bit of a intermittent ABS fault which clears after I actuate. The brake levers. Bike has been solid for 40,000, MI. Nothing on the Moto scan diagnostic tool.
 
OK, we know what it is now... so it does seem to be throttle-related.
Picture from the MAX site - there is a microswitch inside that box (item 10); if the problem is indeed electrical (as opined in your other post), that could be the culprit.
1740596941227.jpeg
Here's what the cabling is supposed to be; some of the parts are available separately.
1740596987258.jpeg
 

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Eilenberger's Law is that the problem lies where you last touched your bike before it stopped working, so I'd focus there.
 
Eilenberger's Law is that the problem lies where you last touched your bike before it stopped working, so I'd focus there.
That's Eilenberger's Second Law. His First Law is "If you have the part with you, you won't need it." :)
 
That's Eilenberger's Second Law. His First Law is "If you have the part with you, you won't need it." :)
Law#1 - Riding: Ride like they're out to kill you. Don't even think about them not seeing you - think they *do* see you and want to kill you. ie - plan your escape.

Law#2 - Parts: You never need the part you have. (and the sublaw is - the further you are from the part you need is directly proportional to the probable need for the part (Canada proved that to me -))

Law#3 - Troubleshooting: Look where you last worked.

 
Due to negligence I must have shorted something and caused a canbus error. Once fault codes were cleared she fired right up. The acceleration cable elbow being broken is not related and infact the bike runs well.
However the broken elbow is likely the culprit causing surging in 2nd gear at 30mph, with the cruise control set to 30mph. The bike hunts around surging forward and back. Does not happen with the cc set, 30mph 3rd gear. Thanks
 
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