84 rt fairing loose best way to tighten

[miairhead]

violin I paid my local BMW dealer to replace the steering head bearings. I should have known better but with 150 dogs (rescue) sometimes you need to make choices. I gave the dealer long time to do the work three weeks. This dealer seems to think a tattooed 20 year old will do the job with not supervision.

I got it back the damper not able to turn. I should have checked more when more on pickup. I picked it up as closing time, and just left. When I took it back not even a 'sorry for the inconvenience'. The boy mechanic even broke the knob trying to show me how it worked; he lubed and lubed but could not get it right. . I had to point out to the boy mechanic that the arrows on the damper point to the top. He went in and asked someone what to do. The repaired took about 40 minutes.

I had been raining a lot so I did not do much riding. On first long ride after awhile I noticed the fairing would sway side to side. I guess at $80 hr mechanic did not tighten that up after repair.

What is best way to tighten up the fairing bolts?

I removed the headlight glass, I find a nut and washers missing on the left side of the headlight cone. I going to go back and make the dealer check everything. He did a front tire, and that was missing a valve cap. I have learn a lesson again, after the beemer is checkout by the dealer, he never see this RT again.

 

[TGHSMITH]

remove the headlight glass and tunnel, that should help in getting to the bolts, four for the bracket to fairing, two for bracket to steering head, one one each side in the pockets crossbar to fairing.. most are 10 mm if I remember correctly... check to make sure the fairing is hung on the mount correctly,,,

 

[Yarddog]

Make sure you follow up with that dealer...that's unacceptable...

 

[monsondm]

Additional mounts

There are two 13mm bolt heads that hold the fairing mount to the frame of the bike. If loose there fairing can move alot. I use a 12 point 13mm box end wrench and gain access to the heads on each side of the fairing mount near the area where the steering head is located. It is real tight and as I have RS Fairings, it is easier to get at. The side boxes in the fairing will have to be removed.

An alternate method is to remove the headlight shell enough to get a 13mm socket and a long extension in from the front. Good luck, it is not fun.
Dale

 

[na cl k9]

Something else...

Be careful not to put too much torque on the threaded metal inserts cast into the fiberglass fairing panels where the bolts attach them to the mount arms. The resin surrounding them cracks easily. Check to make sure that these mounts points are not already cracked first since that could be the source of your recent problem. The mechanic should not have had to take the metal upper fairing mount off or loose to perform the steering head bearing work. At this point it would be wise to make sure the two main mount bolts are tight anyway.

 

[jforgo]

Be careful not to put too much torque on the threaded metal inserts cast into the fiberglass fairing panels where the 10mm bolts attach them to the mount arms. The resin surrounding them cracks easily. Check to make sure that these mounts points are not already cracked first since that could be the source of your recent problem. The mechanic should not have had to take the metal upper fairing mount off or loose to perform the steering head bearing work. At this point it would be wise to make sure they are tight anyway.

Clymer, which pretty well follows the factory manual, says to take the fairing off for this job. But, yes, it is actually not necessary.

 

[lkchris]

Just a minor point ...

Bolts/screws are NOT described by the size of the wrench but rather by the diameter of the shaft.

On BMWs for the most part if the wrench size is 13mm, the screw is M8. If wrench is 10mm, screw is M6. On Japanese stuff, you could find different wrench sizes for same size screws. Obviously those screws would work, too, but not if the description is in error.