kentuvman
New member
Hi Everyone - want to share a long process of my attempt to solve an ignition issue. Seems many of us with the electronic ignitions go through this sooner or later - riding along and the bike starts quitting and bucking like a bronco - leading up to this post, I'd installed a new Hall Sensor in one of the bean cans and did it again in another. It's not the kind of work I'd want to do on a regular basis. After overhauling the bean can, bike still was quitting so I replaced the ICU. That solved the problem but created another one - the tach needle started jumping like crazy!
In December, towed my bike from MN to CA and then R65 was hard to start - it had been through weather that included snow and rain.
I’d reached out to Matt Parkhouse asking him about the wisdom of buying a new $200 Bosch dual tower coil w/out being sure the coil was a problem - Matt graciously shipped me a Dyna blue and told me if it worked, to send him a check - I'd had a used Bosch dual tower coil and that was after replacing the OEM Grey Crack-o-matic.
After installing the Dyna Blue Coil, the bike fired up right away - one problem solved!
Unfortunately, she still was conking out BUT tach no longer jumped!
Decided to stop farting around (been messing with the ignition off and on over the past 2-3 years) and ordered the Red Centre Gen 3 Bean can and ICU and a new ignition harness from John Olive / Rally Sport Ignition in Australia - should arrive this week.
In preparation for new ignition system, removed tank today and started going through all the wires - one thing I definitely noticed was when I put the bike back together say @5 years ago, I didn't know as much as I do now and had used a combination of Gorilla Black Duct tape and Electrical tape to wrap the harness - did that because the OEM sheath was deteriorating. Didn't like my "past work" and removed all the sticky gooey gorilla tape (don't ever get lazy like I did and use this crap!) Took a couple hours but I was alone and uninterrupted and found the work to be quite therapeutic. Removed wires that went into different harnesses/connectors on the frame and routed for minimal stress on the wires - really took my time and did a nice job working with the best loom tape I could find locally at a Pep Boys - 3M Black Friction Tape - worked like a dream!
I noticed a cluster of ground wires that attaches behind the voltage regulator and are held on by one of the two Allen bolts that holds on the VR was loose - not sure what would have caused the conking out but one never knows! The other thing I caught was corrosion where the Ignition module harness plugs into the other white plug that goes where? Forgetting now. Wiring harness, I think . . .
Then I removed the Ignition harness - the wires were stiff and not brittle but old and the connectors to the bean can are non OEM.
Will I have solved my problem? Not sure but getting closer and wiring harness sure is tidy and clean! Will keep you posted when I install new ignition - excited about this new product because of where the hall sensor is mounted - completely serviceable and should eliminate the need to carry a spare bean can and just a spare hall sensor.
In December, towed my bike from MN to CA and then R65 was hard to start - it had been through weather that included snow and rain.
I’d reached out to Matt Parkhouse asking him about the wisdom of buying a new $200 Bosch dual tower coil w/out being sure the coil was a problem - Matt graciously shipped me a Dyna blue and told me if it worked, to send him a check - I'd had a used Bosch dual tower coil and that was after replacing the OEM Grey Crack-o-matic.
After installing the Dyna Blue Coil, the bike fired up right away - one problem solved!
Unfortunately, she still was conking out BUT tach no longer jumped!
Decided to stop farting around (been messing with the ignition off and on over the past 2-3 years) and ordered the Red Centre Gen 3 Bean can and ICU and a new ignition harness from John Olive / Rally Sport Ignition in Australia - should arrive this week.
In preparation for new ignition system, removed tank today and started going through all the wires - one thing I definitely noticed was when I put the bike back together say @5 years ago, I didn't know as much as I do now and had used a combination of Gorilla Black Duct tape and Electrical tape to wrap the harness - did that because the OEM sheath was deteriorating. Didn't like my "past work" and removed all the sticky gooey gorilla tape (don't ever get lazy like I did and use this crap!) Took a couple hours but I was alone and uninterrupted and found the work to be quite therapeutic. Removed wires that went into different harnesses/connectors on the frame and routed for minimal stress on the wires - really took my time and did a nice job working with the best loom tape I could find locally at a Pep Boys - 3M Black Friction Tape - worked like a dream!
I noticed a cluster of ground wires that attaches behind the voltage regulator and are held on by one of the two Allen bolts that holds on the VR was loose - not sure what would have caused the conking out but one never knows! The other thing I caught was corrosion where the Ignition module harness plugs into the other white plug that goes where? Forgetting now. Wiring harness, I think . . .
Then I removed the Ignition harness - the wires were stiff and not brittle but old and the connectors to the bean can are non OEM.
Will I have solved my problem? Not sure but getting closer and wiring harness sure is tidy and clean! Will keep you posted when I install new ignition - excited about this new product because of where the hall sensor is mounted - completely serviceable and should eliminate the need to carry a spare bean can and just a spare hall sensor.
