77 R 100RS- Front ignition cover

[tleonard]

How do you install (wiggle into place) the large front cast ignition cover while ensuring that the rubber points wire gromet is seated correctly. I can't see into the points area and it has no correct seating (tactile) feel. The last 2 times I took the cover off, the gromet had been pushed in toward what is supposed to be the sealed points area. That would leave the points open to water and dirt. I wish there were 2 separate covers, one for the points and then the large outer cover.

Any tricks to ensure and confirm the gromet stays in place and the points are sealed up. Thanks.

 

[20774]

Are you talking about #5 and 15 in this image?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0333-USA-09-1977-2474-BMW-R_100_7T&diagId=11_1757

It's been a while since I was in there, but I've usually just put everything in its place on the engine side. The rubber tube for the wiring can be problematic. But seems like I would get them in place and carefully move the front cover into position...you can get a small peek from one side. It takes some "feel" to know that you have the slot in the cover has begun to engage the rubber tube. Then with even pressure the cover usually slides into place. If you can't get the cover to come anywhere near the engine itself, then something has slipped off and you'll have to try again. I don't think I've seen any videos around about this, unfortunately.

 

[FELAW]

I put a dab of silicon on both to hold them in place while the cover goes on.

 

[pauls1150]

It sounds more like he has points and is asking about the small rubber sort-of-squarish grommet that is on the points wire as it leaves the points chamber. (TL - yes?)
Make sure there is NO oil or dirt that would aggravate the migration
A little dab of silicone bonding/adhesive, let it get tacky but Not firm, then install the cover.
Yeah, it can sometimes be a pain, but do not let that wire get squished!

 

[robsryder]

My method will likely not be what the OP has in mind - when I was giving my 77 RS the re-do back in 2004, I removed the cover, points, stator, and rotor in order to remove the timing case cover (shown as part #10 in the exploded diagram referenced above). I took the timing case cover off to renew the front crank and cam seals and to check the timing chain and tensioner. Whilst the timing case cover was removed it was placed horizontally on the bench. I took the square cross section rubber gasket and carefully glued it (with silicone RTV adhesive) in the slot about the points location. A brick was placed on the rubber gasket to hold it in position while the glue dried. In 20 years that rubber gasket has stayed in place. [I also replaced the points and advance mechanism with a Boyer electronic ignition, so I only remove the cover periodically to check the brushes in the stator connected to the rotor.]

 

[olironrider]

Alright, let’s call the parts what they are on MAXBMW website:

11 14 1 263 265, Weather Cap, the alloy casting covering the front of engine, top-to-bottom.
65 61 2 300 295, Gasket, which is the square rubber strip surrounding the Points/Advance chamber.
11 14 1 253 415, Hose, from the 11:00 position of the Points/Advance chamber, rising up to near the Condenser for venting.
62 12 1 351 554, Grommet, this seals the Tachometer Cable near #1 cylinder to the Weather Cap.

Common usage calls the Weather Cap, the Front Cover; the Gasket the Points Sealing Strip; the Hose being the Snorkel and lastly, the Grommet known as the Tach Cable Rubber.

I glue the points sealing strip into the square groove around the points/advance chamber. I also glue the bottom of the snorkel into its location at the 11:00 position in the points/advance chamber. Often over-looked, is the tach cable rubber and again, glue it only to the timing chain case side by #1 cylinder. My favorite glue for this is, 3M WEATHER STRIP ADHESIVE, YELLOW.

Using some dielectric grease, I “butter” the slot in the snorkel and tach cable rubber slot; “butter” the contact areas of the front cover where they mate with the snorkel and tach cable rubber.

CAUTION: Always disconnect the battery from the electrical system as, there is a bare spade terminal which is charged positive, located on the diode board in the upper right area, very close to the front cover ! Failing to isolate the battery and attempting removal of the front cover, may short the hot spade terminal directly to ground ! Many things get fried, melted, burned as well as personal injuries.

I first locate the front cover upon the hollow pin pressed into the top, right of the chain case, giving a fixed point to work from. Swing the front cover down and towards the chain case, first catching the tach cable rubber some, which now gives two points of reference. Applying pressure towards the chain case and with good lighting in front of #2 cylinder, push/wiggle the front cover into the snorkel… which is visible and can be felt. Hold the front cover in position as, you’ll need to “caress” the tach cable rubber, using a kitchen butter knife, a bit wider on the exterior to allow the thin web of the front cover into the slot. Press the front cover firmly against the chain case and hold with on hand as you start one or two M6-1.0 socket head bolts into location, with the other.

This front cover install, and the air filter cover half, long bolt, are an acquired skill that becomes easier after a hundred iterations

 

[tleonard]

So only 97 more tries to go! I did silicone the hose into the timing case cover but still over 1/2 of the hose end has to slot into the weather protection cover. On the RS, the exhaust cross over pipe and the 2 fairing side panels make for a fairly tight fit with no ability to see in from the side as I try to slide the pieces together. Perhaps a new hose would have better defined slots and a more ridged feel allowing a bit of tactile feel over the old and tired existing piece?

 

[20774]

How about some pictures of things in place before you put the front cover on?

 

[beemerguru]

A smear of grease on the cover slot for the points wire and another smear on the cover (both sides) where the tach cable goes,

Look in the slot from the points side with a light in left hand, cover in right..and you can guide the cover onto the points block. Once that's started, wiggle the cover while pressing the right side and the cover will slide into the tach rubber. Then align the top pin and press.

Hold the cover while you start either of the top bolts, then the bottom short one.

 

[spag]

When changing the points and condenser on my R90S, I noticed the snorkel was just dangling loose inside the cover. The end which attaches to the front cover has seen better days. Not sure what the previous owner did to cause the snorkel to get messed up. My question is the large grooved side of the snorkel attached to the front cover or to the timing case side? In short, which direction is the snorkel mounted?

 

[PGlaves]

When changing the points and condenser on my R90S, I noticed the snorkel was just dangling loose inside the cover. The end which attaches to the front cover has seen better days. Not sure what the previous owner did to cause the snorkel to get messed up. My question is the large grooved side of the snorkel attached to the front cover or to the timing case side? In short, which direction is the snorkel mounted?

Facing backward.