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2013 R1200 RT Replacing AM/FM Antennae Base
- Thread starter codfish
- Start date
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
May be some clues from the MAX parts fiche... https://www.maxbmw.com/ Put your cursor on "Parts" then slide down and select "Original Parts Fiche" and select your year & model. Dunno if it would be in fairing parts, body/trim... yer gonna have to search a little.
bhodges
New member
In the upper lefthand corner of the right mirror housing you'll see a round hole behind the glass mirror. With a flashlight you'll be able to see a torx screw head at the bottom of that hole. Using a torx 27, unscrew this screw while holding the right turn signal housing. The turn signal housing will slide forward and you can undo the light bulb and remove the turn signal housing. You should now be able to access the antenna.
Thanks BHodges for the info. I did get to the job today and everything went as I hoped after learning of a little known trick involving replacement of the rearview mirror glass. Similar to the post by bhodges, there is a small hole in the bottom of the mirror housing, meaning you have to get on your knees to see'/find it. It's impossible to see into the hole but believe me there is a T25 screw head accessible through that hole. The screw is what holds the glass to the articulated plate that permits mirror adjustment. Now finding the head and the hole is not easy but once you get the hang of it, it is simple and once backed out until there is resistance the glass will easily pop off the mount. You will want to push IN on the bottom of the mirror about half way and then insert the driver in about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Small subtle movements are ideal. I was able to detect the mating of the driver with the head after only a minute or so. You cannot remove the screw completely so don't screw out beyond the feel of resistance. Nifty little design by BMW.
Once the glass is removed you can see the two T-25 flange head screws that hold the mirror housing in the mount. 2 screws and the mirror housing comes off.
The next step, which allows wide open access to the headlights and the circular dust panel will also allow access to the speaker pods and give you access to the antennae mount.
You must take off both mirror mounts and then the dash cover. Dash cover is held in place with 4 T20 screws. You also must remove both front fairing panels. The 2 T25 screws holding the speakers are now visible. The speaker pod comes out with a little finesse. I then removed the 4 self tapping screws holding the speaker in the pod and disconnected the blade connectors and set the speaker aside. Removing the speaker makes reassembly easier since the pod is considerably lighter.
You can now reach your whole hand into the fairing and get to the antennae and headlights easily.
Reassembly took more time since this was my first time on this year RT. The left side front panel was the trickiest since the bike had an optional power port on the trailing edge behind the radio controls. You will have to figure this one out yourself but know that it is easier to get the panel back on if you don't reconnect the power port blades until after you have maneuvered the part to near perfect location. I had to press the connector on the blades blindly and then tuck the wire into the clip holding it to the bottom edge. It worked but took some practice.
I want to thank everyone who contributed encouragement and assistance to this project. It took me just over two hours to complete this task. Next time should be much faster.
Remember, even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while.
Codfish
Once the glass is removed you can see the two T-25 flange head screws that hold the mirror housing in the mount. 2 screws and the mirror housing comes off.
The next step, which allows wide open access to the headlights and the circular dust panel will also allow access to the speaker pods and give you access to the antennae mount.
You must take off both mirror mounts and then the dash cover. Dash cover is held in place with 4 T20 screws. You also must remove both front fairing panels. The 2 T25 screws holding the speakers are now visible. The speaker pod comes out with a little finesse. I then removed the 4 self tapping screws holding the speaker in the pod and disconnected the blade connectors and set the speaker aside. Removing the speaker makes reassembly easier since the pod is considerably lighter.
You can now reach your whole hand into the fairing and get to the antennae and headlights easily.
Reassembly took more time since this was my first time on this year RT. The left side front panel was the trickiest since the bike had an optional power port on the trailing edge behind the radio controls. You will have to figure this one out yourself but know that it is easier to get the panel back on if you don't reconnect the power port blades until after you have maneuvered the part to near perfect location. I had to press the connector on the blades blindly and then tuck the wire into the clip holding it to the bottom edge. It worked but took some practice.
I want to thank everyone who contributed encouragement and assistance to this project. It took me just over two hours to complete this task. Next time should be much faster.
Remember, even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while.
Codfish
