2006 R1200RT THROTTLE BODY HOSE CLAMP MANUFACTURER PART NUMBERS

[billhilow]

Quite a few posts on the tool to tension the clamps. However, no mention of part numbers. To save yourself some angst over finding the part numbers. Please find below as related to the '06 R12 throttle body banding or clamps. I wouldn't worry about buying a specific tool for these bandings. Find yourself made in Germany knipex channel locks and you've a friend for life. The machine tolerances are so tight. You could pick a high E guitar string up with one of these off a flat marble countertop.
Microfiche is representative of all banding clamps required? There's three different sizes all listed on my invoice. Hope it helps somebody. Without having to scour the net for the r12 RT. A bike I love very very very much.

 

[drneo66]

I totally agree with you, this is definitely one of those "have the right tool for the job" situations.

I see that Max BMW lists the part numbers - https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51560&rnd=10232024
(I hope they never take this offline - it's such a great resource)

 

[kinterridge]

Those are Oetiker or Oteker style clamps, the correct tool should be used, which include a PEX style cinch ring tool if you're a plumber, or Lisle makes one for cv joint clamps they start at $25 in various places and go up from there.

 

[omega man]

Those are Oetiker or Oteker style clamps, the correct tool should be used, which include a PEX style cinch ring tool if you're a plumber, or Lisle makes one for cv joint clamps they start at $25 in various places and go up from there.

I have a whole set that style clamps. Sets can be purchased with the correct tool. Kind of a bugger to remove. A pair of sharp side-cutters seems to work. I have found it best to not do a lot of twisting in removal as it can crack old(r) plastic band can tear rubber.
Another handy tool.
OM

 

[kinterridge]

I have a whole set that style clamps. Sets can be purchased with the correct tool. Kind of a bugger to remove. A pair of sharp side-cutters seems to work. I have found it best to not do a lot of twisting in removal as it can crack old(r) plastic band can tear rubber.
Another handy tool.
OM

IF you have room Oetiker makes a tool for that. See PDF. Basically snipping the crimp, but it can be tough as they are stainless. On brass fitting twisting is OK but on plastic or fragile connectors twisting is bad.

 

[drneo66]

Well, these are the reusable version, so they aren't the crimp style. Hopefully no cutting needed!

However, these bikes are getting older, so it hard to know who else has been wrenching on them. I've heard of people choosing to replace the Oetiker clamp with a screw-style clamp - unfortunately the Oetiker gives a solid 360 degree seal, whereas the screw-style clamps will have varying tension across the band.

 

[billhilow]

Those are Oetiker or Oteker style clamps, the correct tool should be used, which include a PEX style cinch ring tool if you're a plumber, or Lisle makes one for cv joint clamps they start at $25 in various places and go up from there.

In all fairness Knipex makes a pair of razor sharp cinching pliers, I'm aware of your implementation of the single use type banding in reference to the original post this post is respectfully again in reference to part numbers for the banding clamp and not the pliers, gadzooks! posts abound as to the specification, composition, weight, color, date of manufactur, suitable brand substitution pliers all, of which can be substituted, with a pair of salad tongs. If you've the correct bands indeed so little leverage need be applied it's clear the manufacturers intent was not using adnormal levels of force, they do have a correct orientation with the non-tanged end of the clamp being fed first over the top and emerging from below the fit is ludicrously precise. A slight squeeze and they seat themselves. If There is another comment about the pliers I will end it all and.pitch myself over the suicide prevention barrier on the Golden Gate Bridge! Photos of correctly installed clamps attached

 

[drneo66]

In all fairness Knipex makes a pair of razor sharp cinching pliers, I'm aware of your implementation of the single use type banding in reference to the original post this post is respectfully again in reference to part numbers for the banding clamp and not the pliers, gadzooks! posts abound as to the specification, composition, weight, color, date of manufactur, suitable brand substitution pliers all, of which can be substituted, with a pair of salad tongs. If you've the correct bands indeed so little leverage need be applied it's clear the manufacturers intent was not using adnormal levels of force, they do have a correct orientation with the non-tanged end of the clamp being fed first over the top and emerging from below the fit is ludicrously precise. A slight squeeze and they seat themselves. If There is another comment about the pliers I will end it all and.pitch myself over the suicide prevention barrier on the Golden Gate Bridge! Photos of correctly installed clamps attached

I call dibs on your bike and probably anything else mechanical in your house. If you are this detailed on clamps, I have a feeling everything else is maintained to a very, very high standard

 

[AntonLargiader]

Those are Oetiker or Oteker style clamps, the correct tool should be used, which include a PEX style cinch ring tool if you're a plumber, or Lisle makes one for cv joint clamps they start at $25 in various places and go up from there.

They aren't that "ear" style. They are a reusable design that can basically be unhooked and re-hooked. I've done it with all sorts of pliers but it's easiest with pin pliers that are designed for it.