'02 1150GSA Drive Shaft Problem?

[Ron from BC]

I hate to report that I may have my first real problem with my old tractor.

'02 1150GSA, 156K miles, original FD, original clutch. Trans fluid gets changed annually, engine oil every 3-5k miles and the FD gets changed 'almost' every time I change the engine oil. Pivot bearings have been changed a couple of years ago. I just changed the FD oil yesterday and it was clear with no debris or growth on the magnet. There is no play on the rear wheel.

During the last week I've noticed that 'at times' on deceleration on the highway when I first back off the throttle I have felt a vibration on my left foot peg. Left only. Yesterday that sensation has been felt more frequently but only lasts for the first few seconds when going off the throttle.

I've also started to faintly hear a low chirping noise when slowing down to a stop coming from the right side of the bike. There has also been a slight knocking noise at times.

Today I thought I'd take a spin into town and when riding out of the shop to my driveway at low speed in first gear I could now hear some knocking noise consistent with rotation again on the right side of the bike. I cancelled my trip to town but did go slowly up and down the street and continued to hear noise from the right side and when I changed up to third gear, still at low speed, the noise/knocking had a deeper note.

Looking for thoughts on how to isolate further to determine the fault.

 

[Ron from BC]

Update

Ok update time.

I decided to take it off the lift and take it on the road in front of the house to try and get a better sense of the noise and location. When I rode it out to the road no sound but when I accelerated a bit I started to hear some knocking again from the right side. About 100 yards down the road I changed up to third, again while less than 15-20 mph, and the knocking became deeper and more apparent. I pulled over, stopped and when I tried to slowly move again it wouldn't go.....like the brakes had locked. No go forward, coast reverse and no change in neutral. After a bit of jockeying around it did move so I coasted back down the grade to my place then pushed the bike onto the lift and while doing so I could hear the knocking noise consistent with rotation.

At Jim's suggestion I did spin the rear wheel while on the lift and the knocking noise is there. My wife can't tell if it's coming more from the front of the driveshaft housing or the rear (U joint).

I guess the next thing is to take the boot off and see if there's bit of rubber debris from upstream on the driveshaft or maybe I will see something awry at the U joint with just the boot pulled back?

 

[gsaddict]

At that mileage pull the shaft and inspect for looseness on both ends.
Its time for an inspection especially if you are getting noises.

I changed mine out at 173,000 miles. It was still ok with no looseness or notches but as an Alaska trip was in the plans, I did not want any issue.

 

[DARKCLOUD]

GS Driveshaft

Got one out of a 2003 GS, not an adventure. Let me know if it would help you get back on the road. Jon

 

[Ron from BC]

Prior to packing it in for the night I did remove the rear wheel and pull the rear boot back which revealed a collection of black rubber bits with a few very small metallic bits. In my searching I did see a pic of a removed drive shaft where the black rubber part had delaminated and had been pressed out of the larger part of the shaft upstream. I suspect that is the case with mine and will be confirmed later this morning.

What remains unclear is 'if' I have to remove the swing arm to remove the drive shaft. I realize there is a circlip at the front end but one poster has said I can just pull the front boot back and then pop the circlip off with a screw driver etc.

Finding a replacement for this 1150 Adventure shaft is another thing. I will phone/email Motorworks.uk this morning to see if they have a used one in stock. There is an auto shop in town that specializes in rebuilding/repairing torque converters and drive shafts but a motorcycle shaft might be a different story.

 

[snookers]

Prior to packing it in for the night I did remove the rear wheel and pull the rear boot back which revealed a collection of black rubber bits with a few very small metallic bits. In my searching I did see a pic of a removed drive shaft where the black rubber part had delaminated and had been pressed out of the larger part of the shaft upstream. I suspect that is the case with mine and will be confirmed later this morning.

What remains unclear is 'if' I have to remove the swing arm to remove the drive shaft. I realize there is a circlip at the front end but one poster has said I can just pull the front boot back and then pop the circlip off with a screw driver etc.

Finding a replacement for this 1150 Adventure shaft is another thing. I will phone/email Motorworks.uk this morning to see if they have a used one in stock. There is an auto shop in town that specializes in rebuilding/repairing torque converters and drive shafts but a motorcycle shaft might be a different story.

I had to change out the driveshaft on our 2000RT last spring while on a road trip........the u-joint coming off of the tranny went south on it.......I found that removing the swing arm made the whole R&R of the driveshaft quicker as that circlip didn't want to release the u-joint from the tranny output shaft........your experience may be quite different with your driveshaft.....I found a replacement on E-BAY

 

[Ron from BC]

Thanks, even if it is possible to pop the shaft out with the swing arm still in place I'm beginning to feel that for the sake of heating up a couple more pivot bearings at the front it will be easier to remove it.

 

[gsaddict]

Thanks, even if it is possible to pop the shaft out with the swing arm still in place I'm beginning to feel that for the sake of heating up a couple more pivot bearings at the front it will be easier to remove it.

Yes, much easier.

 

[Ron from BC]

Well as you can see the drive shaft failure was at the front U joint. Now the shaft is supposed to pop out when a screw driver is wedged at the front lip. The BMW repair manual suggests using an underlay so as not to scratch the paint however I've attempted this a few times now and it does pull back somewhat however it's not coming off and I'm trying not to be too aggressive in the levering action to avoid any damage to the trans end area.





Now as far as a replacement used or rebuilt...not having much luck. Motoworks.UK does have complete drive shafts for the 1150GS (front and rear U joints) which they say can be retro-fitted to the Adventure......has to be the complete drive shaft.

Anyone have comments on this?

 

[gsaddict]

Well as you can see the drive shaft failure was at the front U joint. Now the shaft is supposed to pop out when a screw driver is wedged at the front lip. The BMW repair manual suggests using an underlay so as not to scratch the paint however I've attempted this a few times now and it does pull back somewhat however it's not coming off and I'm trying not to be too aggressive in the levering action to avoid any damage to the trans end area.

View attachment 63336

View attachment 63337

Now as far as a replacement used or rebuilt...not having much luck. Motoworks.UK does have complete drive shafts for the 1150GS (front and rear U joints) which they say can be retro-fitted to the Adventure......has to be the complete drive shaft.

Anyone have comments on this?

The std 1150GS will work, the difference is that the GSA one is keyed on the spline so phasing is stupid proof.

http://www.largiader.com/articles/driveshaft/

If you want to borrow a good used one call me.

 

[Ron from BC]

Got one out of a 2003 GS, not an adventure. Let me know if it would help you get back on the road. Jon

Is it the complete drive shaft....front and rear U joint attached? Apparently you can't mix the GS GSA shafts but you can retrofit into the GSA IF you use the complete shaft.

 

[Ron from BC]

Update:

I was successful in sourcing a GSA complete drive shaft from Motorworks.UK and they were incredible to deal with. The even got it shipped out this afternoon.

Now I have the right lube for the splines but no Staburags 30 for the pivot pins. Can anyone suggest an alternative grease for the pivot pins/bearings?

 

[Ron from BC]

Conclusion:

I received the new OEM GSA drive shaft on Monday morning as scheduled and it was in that same afternoon. Test ride complete, all is well and my trip next week is back on.

Worked out great getting it from Motorworks as they had it in stock whereas any dealer would have had to back order from Germany.....plus it was half the price than it would have been here at a Cdn dealer.