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2013 r1200 rt does not maintain constant acceleration

_RockZ_

_RockZ_

Seeking the 4TH dimension
In every gear when I twist the throttle to increase speed It intermittently speeds up

I have attached the GS 911 to it and it reads no codes
I have rode it constantly and every other day I fill it with good fuel

It has 31,000 miles on it
The issue is more prevalent at fourth gear fifth gear six gear when I go to pass other vehicles
I pulled the spark plugs out and they look good just a little white

I did a major service at 24,000 miles by myself new fluids all around new air filter



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My 2012 rt was doing something a little different more of a drastic interminte surge. It showed no codes . They replaced the fuel pump under warranty . Still did it .
Turns out it was the throttle position sensor. I could see it being that on your bike.
Please let us know when you figure it out.


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I ordered the twin Max to sync After I do a valve adjustment and I also ordered new plugs thank you for your input I’m a look into the throttle position sensor


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in the upper gears, observe the speedo AND the tach...if the speed does not increase when twisting the throttle but the RPMs increase you have a slipping clutch...

report back with your findings...

:thumb
 
The tach does show the same acceleration problem. So no clutch slippage


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I have followed the do it yourself and valve adjustments all models attached are the pictures of what I have on a 2013 RT

12c9b691cf85a7826031a148178fd4fa.jpg
d66503c95e2b604fb9865c22331345b2.jpg
5d28de53d0bf3e1af1ab3d07af933b97.jpg



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Below are the pictures of the cams I’m just wondering how do I find top dead center because it doesn’t match the tutorial
b57adadd8ab5ae878b42eeadbda60e0e.jpg
ac74b8bc26813743e1618c5a09737370.jpg



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_RockZ_ said:
Below are the pictures of the cams I’m just wondering how do I find top dead center because it doesn’t match the tutorial
b57adadd8ab5ae878b42eeadbda60e0e.jpg
ac74b8bc26813743e1618c5a09737370.jpg



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Click to expand...

Pull the plugs, but gearbox in 6th gear and rotate the rear wheel in the direction of travel until the two slots on the end of the cams point towards each other and are in line...that is TDC for the cylinder you are looking at...

top image...see the two slots or notches in the end of the cam...?
 
Thank you for the info

I have set it to top dead center and checked the Exhaust valves with .30 they are a little loose I checked the intake valves with .15 and they are also a little loose on both sides

So if I was to adjust the valve clearances on this year of motorcycle I would have to get shims because there is no bolts to loosen and tighten correct?


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_RockZ_ said:
Thank you for the info

I have set it to top dead center and checked the Exhaust valves with .30 they are a little loose I checked the intake valves with .15 and they are also a little loose on both sides

So if I was to adjust the valve clearances on this year of motorcycle I would have to get shims because there is no bolts to loosen and tighten correct?


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Click to expand...

to adjust your valves you will first need to remove the "semi-spheres" from under the follower, measure and determine the correct "semi-sphere" to replace it with...how "loose" are the feeler gauges?...to be honest here, i use a set of calibrated feeler gauges to check the valves...these will give you real values to determine whether or not you need to go beyond simply checking

:thumb
 
wyman.winn said:
to adjust your valves you will first need to remove the "semi-spheres" from under the follower, measure and determine the correct "semi-sphere" to replace it with...how "loose" are the feeler gauges?...to be honest here, i use a set of calibrated feeler gauges to check the valves...these will give you real values to determine whether or not you need to go beyond simply checking

:thumb
Click to expand...

THIS^^^

I use feeler gages to determine the exact clearance. If one is out, you need to remove the cam follower (replace the circlip with new when reinstalling, you do not what one of the followers falling out when the engine is running), measure the existing shim with a micrometer, and do the math to figure what size shim you need. If you remove all eight (carefully keeping track of which one goes where mind you), you might be able to get a discrepant valve back into the correct range simply by rearranging where you reinstall the shims and thus not have to order any.

I use this spreadsheet to do the math for me.
 
Thank you for all your help my valves were all within limits the problem turned out to be spark plugs

After I checked the valve limits I put the twin max on it and checked synchronization and everything turned out right how it supposed to be

Problem solved with the great help of this fantastic for him

2e12c167cab0280036dc76dca02d9950.jpg



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