Where is the Cat Code Plug located? R1200RT-P

Hello,
Can you tell me where the cat code plug is?
I have a r1200rt 2006 and it surges at a constant speed. I have tried adjusting the valves new plugs and nothing works. The bmw dealers act like they dont know what I am talking about.
When the bike is running at a constant speed in warm weather it will surge. If it is running in cool weather it rides great. No surging.
Any information would be great!!!
Thanks
Nigel
Gaiensville Florida

R1200s don't have a Cat Code Plug.

kthutchinson said:

R1200s don't have a Cat Code Plug.

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You mean r1200rt?

aso432 said:

Hello,
Can you tell me where the cat code plug is?
I have a r1200rt 2006 and it surges at a constant speed. I have tried adjusting the valves new plugs and nothing works. The bmw dealers act like they dont know what I am talking about.
When the bike is running at a constant speed in warm weather it will surge. If it is running in cool weather it rides great. No surging.
Any information would be great!!!
Thanks
Nigel
Gaiensville Florida

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You need a different dealer - one who is honest and cares!

Any dealer who claims not to know about surging is lying.

PGlaves said:

You need a different dealer - one who is honest and cares!

Any dealer who claims not to know about surging is lying.

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PGlaves
Have you heard about this type of surging?

aso432 said:

Hello,
Can you tell me where the cat code plug is?

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As other have notes, the hexheads don't have one.

aso432 said:

I have a r1200rt 2006 and it surges at a constant speed.

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What RPM? My '05 GS will only do what you describe if I am at very low RPM. The exact RPM may vary with temperature.

aso432 said:

PGlaves
Have you heard about this type of surging?

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Yes, on many 1100s, some of the F650s, and other later models.

Going to the dual plug ignition cured much of the problem, but as you have experienced not necessarily all of it.

In almost all cases it is a lean surge, caused by the fuel mixture being too lean particularly under very light load, as cruising straight and level at low to moderate throttle openings.

It may be an out of tolerance sensor. It may be several things within spec but stacked to the lean side of tolerances. It is often very difficult to get rid of.

Dealers have heard about and been wrestling with surging since 1995 or 1996. If one hasn't heard about it in 14 or 15 years I don't know where they have been hiding.

Nigel, you have what I call "The Motor Company" Syndrome!

NEVER run a boxer below 3000 RPM. Most people cruise at about 4000rpm. Some 5000 rpm. Shift at about 5000 rpm to keep the revs at 4000 rpm (it drops about 800-1000 rpm per shift). If you are nailing it, shift around 6-7000 rpm and hold on!

2000 RPM will kill a boxer.

PGlaves said:

If it just started then the first thing I would do is run a dose of good (Chevron Techron or equivilent) fuel system cleaner through a tank of fuel. Even a slight bit of obstruction in the injectors can make it be too lean when it is at it's leanest.

From there it becomes a matter of precise tune up, plugs, plug gap, balance, timing, valve adjustment, air filter, etc. If everything is perfect tune-up wise it probably won't do it. Some of the early bikes couldn't be cured, but if yours didn't surge and now does surge something has changed to cause it.

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I only run 93 chevron.
I had the valves adjusted,balance, new irdium sparks and new air filter.
I took it to the BMW Daytona dealership.
And it still surges. I am more than likely going to take it to the Tampa Fl dealer and see if they can figure it out.
I have put in equivilant cleaner.
Im baffled.

aso432 said:

Even at 70 mph?

I wanted to thank for everyones input. keep them coming.

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My r1200rt turns 4000rpm @ 70 mph

Bit surprised at 70mph for 2k Rpm. Doesn't sound right to me.
regards
Paul

Yes, even at 70 mph. 2000 RPM is only to be seen when you are getting going from first gear. Now, sometimes in a corner in 2d gear at 20mph (which is 2000 rpm) I will not downshift to first but rather lug a bit and climb out but that is transient.

I cruise on the highway at about 4000 rpm. Maybe 3500 if it is flat and straight.

And 70 mph in 6th gear would be about 3000 RPM I'm pretty sure. Hard for me to say since I don't lug it that way. But no matter. Regardless of speed, run at higher RPMs.

2000 rpm at 70?

There is something wrong if that is what you are seeing. My '08 R1200RT is around the 4 grand mark too. I found somewhat of a confirmation for an '09 here...

http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23857


1 Rev of the crank = [(Pi)*(Rear Tire diameter in inches)]/[(Internal gear ratio)*(Transmission sixth gear ratio)*(Shaft Drive gear reduction)]

1 Rev = [(3.142)*(24.8ÔÇØ)]/[(1.882)*(0.805)*(2.62)] = 19.631 inches. 1,000 RPM = (19,631 inches/min) * (60 min/hr) * (1 foot/12 inches) * (1 mile/5,280 feet) = 18.59 mph

1,000 RPM = 18.6 mph
2,000 RPM = 37.2 mph
3,000 RPM = 55.8 mph
4,000 RPM = 74.4 mph
5,000 RPM = 92.9 mph
6,000 RPM = 111.6 mph
7,000 RPM = 130.1 mph
8,000 RPM = 148.7 mph (Top speed is slightly > than 125 mph)

I just took my RT out. 6th gear at 70mph is 3500 on my tach. So the guys are right. 3500 should run smoothly although I don't ever run much below 4000. If your at 2000 RPM at 70, you DEFINITELY have a problem!

I suspect you just got the numbers wrong. If you surge at below 3500 rpm, stop running it that way. If you surge at 3500 RPM and up, then you have an issue to investigate and it is well known and documented.

RoboRider said:

I just took my RT out. 6th gear at 70mph is 3500 on my tach. So the guys are right. 3500 should run smoothly although I don't ever run much below 4000. If your at 2000 RPM at 70, you DEFINITELY have a problem!

I suspect you just got the numbers wrong. If you surge at below 3500 rpm, stop running it that way. If you surge at 3500 RPM and up, then you have an issue to investigate and it is well known and documented.

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It was my mistake. Its around 3500rpms at 70. I still surges. Sorry for the confussion.

I don't know if you found the problem yet or not, but here's another avenue to look into.

If you have a R1200RT-P, then you might have the locking kickstand option installed on it. The police version came with an optional locking kickstand switch that had a plate and screw to not allow the m/c to roll forward while running in nuetral and parked on the side kickstand. The switch assembly would work its way loose from its designated position and cause the bike to sputter, as if it going to stall. I think it would get to a position somewhere just before it thinks the kickstand is in the down position.

I've had that before and noticed it originally while riding at a constant speed on the highway. I swore it was some fuel problem. There is a new kickstand switch assembly that would fix this problem.

aso432 said:

It was my mistake. Its around 3500rpms at 70. I still surges. Sorry for the confussion.

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You need someone local with a GS-911 who knows how to use it.

You might look at my thread on getting my bike to idle smoothly. http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=48868

One other symptom I had on occasion when my O2 sensor was messing up was a very slight surge under the sort of conditions you describe. It was never enough to bother me - but it was a bit noticeable.

Two clues to your problem I see:

1. Does it in warm weather. Doesn't do it in cooler weather. The ECU richens the mixture slightly in cooler weather to compensate for the denser air. So - the tiny bit of extra fuel is making the problem go away.

2. Does it at constant speed. The ECU normally only goes "closed-circuit" (which is where the mixture is set by the O2 sensors) under a constant engine speed. When accelerating - the mixture is controlled by the temperature sensors and the mapping in the ECU. If you have a slow or sluggish O2 sensor - the engine mixture will probably tend to "hunt" - where the ECU falls behind the actual mixture (due to the slow O2 sensor,) then finally gets a signal from the O2 sensor and plays catch-up.. and it repeats this, resulting in what feels like surging.

One "fix" for surging in the R11xx series bikes was to either disconnect the O2 sensor (they had a single one) or use the cat-code-plug that told the ECU to ignore the O2 sensor (the "euro" plug.)

What can you do about it?

o - First do what Paul suggested - a dose of Techron. One caveat on the Techron - while it's in the tank things may well feel better, but I believe that can be due to the Techron raising the octane of the fuel. I noticed this on a very buzzy R1150RS that I owned, and noticed it on my R12R with the idle. Once the tank with Techron is consumed, if the problem returns - then I'd suggest:

o - If you can find someone with the GS-911, it has the ability to plot the output of both O2 sensors. A bad one shows up very quickly. You want the engine fully warmed up to do this test - since when it's cold it tends toward a rich mixture to keep it running.

o - You can probably (I have NOT done this - but if you read what I posted, it appears the ECU knows if an O2 sensor is unplugged and goes to a "default mixture" mode) try unplugging the O2 sensors. If the bike stops surging then I think thats a clue to the problem.

o - It's also possible a temperature sensor is kaput, but those can be checked with the GS-911. It gives a readout of the engine oil temperature (called "engine temperature'), the intake air temperature, and the cylinder head(s) temperatures. If any one of these seems not to be based in reality - I'd be looking at that sensor and the wiring coming from it (and any plugs etc.) for why.

Good luck! This again makes a case for a home wrench to consider the GS-911 a basic tool for the newer BMW bikes. It's all computer controlled - and without knowing what the computer is doing you're pretty much guessing what the problem might be!

my 99 gs was surging pretty bad, changed to autolight plugs, it still does it but not that noticeable, beemer boneyard also sells a fix for it, 159.00