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ROX risers and front brake line 2009 r1200r

G

gta

New member
I need some clarity and advice. I have just put on a pair of ROX risers. They are nicely made with quite a bit of flexibility in positioning. But but but...I need a longer front brake line to take advantage of this flexibility. The local BMW dealer told me who they get brake lines from. No problem there. My uncertainty is can I replace this line myself?

The bike is a 2009 r1200r. The Haynes manuel says if you have ABS don't even think about doing anything yourself. The JVB DVD shows flushing an ABS system to be straight forward. The DIY/Tech Library shows a simpler flushing. I do not know where I stand with this differing info and replacing that brake line. It is said never let the fluid empty from the reserve without explaining why. This is what will happen if I take that brake line out. Maybe then I need to bleed the master cylinder as well. I'm thrashing in the dark here and would greatly appreciate some direction and info.

Thanks to a great bunch and all this accumulative knowledge!

Terry
 
You may be able to relocate the brake line (& other wires) to the near side of the fork tube (rather than the far side, from where you sit). Try that.

When I put Rox Risers on my '95 R1100GS, even with moving the line it was still tight - my friend had the brilliant idea of moving the brake line mount - he just uscrewed it, moved it up the frame about 2 inches, then screwed it right back on.

To answer your question - yes, you can replace the brake line by yourself. Use something to suck the brake fluid out of the handlebar reservoir, then just unbolt the existing line & bolt on the longer one being careful to catch any fluid (take off the bottom bolt first, that helps). Fill up the reservoir & bleed the front brakes thoroughly & you're all done! I'm not 100% sure, but I think if you're just doing the one line, you don't have to flush the whole ABS system. Even if you do, if you have the right funnel tool thingie, that's not very difficult either.
 
gta said:
I need some clarity and advice. I have just put on a pair of ROX risers. They are nicely made with quite a bit of flexibility in positioning. But but but...I need a longer front brake line to take advantage of this flexibility. The local BMW dealer told me who they get brake lines from. No problem there. My uncertainty is can I replace this line myself?
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum gta. I don't know your mechanical background, that said chances are you can do it yourself. I put the ROX Risers on my F800gs and the brake line was tight-not horrible-but tight. I purchased the new line from http://www.spieglerusa.com/ and they provided a very complete kit. I waited for a regular service interval before cracking the line.

The bike is a 2009 r1200r. The Haynes manuel says if you have ABS don't even think about doing anything yourself. The JVB DVD shows flushing an ABS system to be straight forward. The DIY/Tech Library shows a simpler flushing. I do not know where I stand with this differing info and replacing that brake line. It is said never let the fluid empty from the reserve without explaining why. This is what will happen if I take that brake line out. Maybe then I need to bleed the master cylinder as well. I'm thrashing in the dark here and would greatly appreciate some direction and info.

Thanks to a great bunch and all this accumulative knowledge!

Terry
Click to expand...
The fluid in the reservoir should not come out unless you move the handle. It sounds like you have some good reference material for the job. One thing-try not to get the brake fluid spilled on anything as it reacts with most things that it spills on.
Chiba13 actually has the best idea. I moved my controls until I had the slack that I needed and did the line swap along with the down the road brake flush (had the new line in stock just in case) Good luck, Gary
 
Thanks for the confidence building Cheba. Just for fun maybe I'll rebuild the ABS control unit! Death wish lX. That advice parallels the DIY. I should always trust this sight as a first go. All that said. What about that small bleeder right at the brake lever? Is that done before the bleeders on the calipers?

My mechanical background with motors is virtually nonexistent. Jaws drop... and your fiddling with your brakes? But I think I have an aptitude for it, just have never had the interest or motivation. I tore my rotator cuff and have had up to now 2 months off work and quite likely another 2. I have done no riding and have been very frustrated. So lots of time to read and get an understanding about being self reliant with this wonderful machine. I've changed the oil, done the valves, and tomorrow I'll synch the carbs with a home made nanometer.

I looked at relocating the brake line. Yes it might work but looks like it could be under stress when head is turned to the max and the riser rotated back. And I like things neat so the original route has it's anal appeal.

Thanks Terry
 
If you need a longer brakeline you can go with the one for the GSA

The other thing you want to check is the tension on the throttle cable

You should check this by putting the bike on the centerstand turn engine on and move the bars lock to lock - there should be no increase in rpm
 
GSA here;

I have the rizers and have no issue with stock brake line, just moving the line to the front of the fork tube, thats all:). Been that way on mine for three years, 70000m no issues. Randy
 
Terry,

Please read: http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=46055 - I've added the info to your thread title, please do so yourself in future postings to the tech forums.

Thanks for your cooperation..

BTW - if you look in the DIY subforum you'll find VERY SPECIFIC instructions on flushing the brakes on an ABS equipped R1200R. I know 'cause I wrote them using my R1200R..
 
So, it is as simple as taking the banjo connector off at the master cylinder, after having emptied the reservoir, tucking it under the head stock and reconnecting it. Then refill the reservoir, bleed the master cylinder, then both front calipers, then top reservoir to original level at the beginning of this procedure. Done? Is it that straight forward? When does one use a stan at the ABS unite?
Thanks
Terry
 
Assuming the R is the same as the GS there is no need to disconnect the brake line to move it to the other side of the fork tube. Just drop the fork tube. It's much easier than futzing with brake lines.

Here's how it's done on a GSA: advrider post
 
Ditto Marchyman:)

Same on my GSA. Remove the fork leg bolt at top, done deal:). Very quickly done to relocate the line(30 min max). Love my ROX rizers too. Randy
 
'09 R1200r Front brake line

gta said:
Thanks for the confidence building Cheba. Just for fun maybe I'll rebuild the ABS control unit! Death wish lX. That advice parallels the DIY. I should always trust this sight as a first go. All that said. What about that small bleeder right at the brake lever? Is that done before the bleeders on the calipers?

My mechanical background with motors is virtually nonexistent. Jaws drop... and your fiddling with your brakes? But I think I have an aptitude for it, just have never had the interest or motivation. I tore my rotator cuff and have had up to now 2 months off work and quite likely another 2. I have done no riding and have been very frustrated. So lots of time to read and get an understanding about being self reliant with this wonderful machine. I've changed the oil, done the valves, and tomorrow I'll synch the carbs with a home made nanometer.

I looked at relocating the brake line. Yes it might work but looks like it could be under stress when head is turned to the max and the riser rotated back. And I like things neat so the original route has it's anal appeal.

Thanks Terry
Click to expand...

It is not necessary to extend or replace the front brake line on an 09 r1200r (and maybe others) with the Rox risers in the 45 degree back position (middle of their arc backward and up); if you relocate the line aft of the right fork and flip it upside down you will have plenty of clearance and length because the fittings will line up properly for a more vertical run of the line. I'll have a pic or two if someone needs one in a day or so. Hope this helps. D.
 
Old post follow up 2009 R1200R 2" Rox riser brake and clutch hose replacement

dburger said:
It is not necessary to extend or replace the front brake line on an 09 r1200r (and maybe others) with the Rox risers in the 45 degree back position (middle of their arc backward and up); if you relocate the line aft of the right fork and flip it upside down you will have plenty of clearance and length because the fittings will line up properly for a more vertical run of the line. I'll have a pic or two if someone needs one in a day or so. Hope this helps. D.
Click to expand...

Hello Don, you've helped me with several previous posts. Today, I posted for help with exactly what you're referencing in this old post of yours. I did a search before my initial post but did not see the above.

Anyway, I read your info. and it seems like I may be able to get away without replacing the brake hose. However, I'm not exactly clear of what you're describing as to the relocation of the line. Also, do you accomplish it by dropping the fork tube on the right side or removing the control from the handlebar.Since you have to break the banjo joint, do you use the normal flush procedure to get rid of any air in the line?

You offered to send some pics 6 years ago so I doubt you have the same bike now.

Thanks for any info you can share.

Bill
 
tater said:
Hello Don, you've helped me with several previous posts. Today, I posted for help with exactly what you're referencing in this old post of yours. I did a search before my initial post but did not see the above.

Anyway, I read your info. and it seems like I may be able to get away without replacing the brake hose. However, I'm not exactly clear of what you're describing as to the relocation of the line. Also, do you accomplish it by dropping the fork tube on the right side or removing the control from the handlebar.Since you have to break the banjo joint, do you use the normal flush procedure to get rid of any air in the line?

You offered to send some pics 6 years ago so I doubt you have the same bike now.

Thanks for any info you can share.

Bill
Click to expand...
Hi Bill, I have no idea who dburger is - it's not me. I've never had barbacks on my R1200R's. The ABS system on all the R1200R bikes are non-whizzy systems (I-ABS-1) - and they are very simple to bleed and service. A normal flush should take care of any air introduced into the system.

FWIW - that post was "dburger"'s one and only post to the forum. He hasn't been back since 10-25-2016 12:10
 
Oops !

deilenberger said:
Hi Bill, I have no idea who dburger is - it's not me. I've never had barbacks on my R1200R's. The ABS system on all the R1200R bikes are non-whizzy systems (I-ABS-1) - and they are very simple to bleed and service. A normal flush should take care of any air introduced into the system.

FWIW - that post was "dburger"'s one and only post to the forum. He hasn't been back since 10-25-2016 12:10
Click to expand...

Sorry for the bother! I actually re-read your flush tutorial which I had used before but was concerned about how much difference, if any, "breaking" the hose would make. Apparently none. I guess dburger was close enough to dellenberger in my brain, at least phoenetically.

Thanks for the response!

Bill
 
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