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Coolant replacement

gsinnc said:
My process is similar but a little different :dance

  1. Start bike
  2. Ride to dealer
  3. Ask for Coolant Flush Service
  4. Eat a donut and have free coffee
  5. Get back on bike
  6. Ride home
Click to expand...

You must be more specific.

What type of donut did you eat?

E.
 
coolant change

I'll bet the tools to do this will cost less than the dealer charge so its a win-win to do yourself. You learn something new and have equipment that has multiple uses. For those that keep their bikes the next fluid change is basically free.
 
khafner said:
I'll bet the tools to do this will cost less than the dealer charge so its a win-win to do yourself. You learn something new and have equipment that has multiple uses. For those that keep their bikes the next fluid change is basically free.
Click to expand...

Even if the coffee was bad and they didn't have donuts...........I'll let the service dept do it.

Reasons
1) Lazy
2) Lazy
3) Lazy
4) It's a decent ride to my dealership
 
36654 said:
Even if the coffee was bad and they didn't have donuts...........I'll let the service dept do it.

Reasons
1) Lazy
2) Lazy
3) Lazy
4) It's a decent ride to my dealership
Click to expand...

5) And it's only once every 4 years (as recommended by my dealer)
6) In THIS environment I am trying very hard to go the extra mile to support my local dealer
 
Coolant Replacement

Easy Peesy. I do this every two years and it is a relatively simple process, and requires no special tools, but requires two small crush washers for the blead plugs (pay attention to the torque specs on these plugs as they are not the same). There is a good procedure in the Haynes manual. The only shortcut is that both Haynes and BMW have you disconnect the line from the over flow tank to the radiator to drain the tank (not easy). There is a single bolt in the center of the tank that can be removed and simply turn the tank over to drain it. Once you have everything full then without replacing the body panels take it for a short ride 3 to 4 miles then return home and top up the fluid. Let it cool for a few minutes before you open the radiator cap. This is easier than heating it up in the shop to get the thermostat to open. Have fun !
 
After using the vacuum method to change the coolant (this is the way the BMW service manual suggests)...

Looking at the coolant flow diagram, I'm not 100% convinced the vacuum method is necessary for the GS/A. I can't see where an air bubble will be trapped that can't be pushed out. Obviously the rads are higher than the engine so the air bubble will travel to the top of the rad.

R1200GS_cutaway_cooling.jpg
 
Coolant replacement - manifold?

craigjv4 said:
1. Drain the cooling system as described in the service manual.
2. Close the left valve. Open the right valve. Insert the correct tube (labeled in pic) in the gallon jug of coolant which is hung above the bike. I hung it from the door opener.
3. Use the Mityvac to suck the coolant into the tube from the rad filler/plug end. Close the right valve when full.
4. Push the soft rubber plug into the rad filler neck. The size of this plug sealed against the flat bottom of the neck so I did not have to pinch-off the overflow hose.
5. Connect the Mityvac to the correct tube (labeled) and open the left valve.
6. Operate the Mityvac to pull a vacuum on the cooling circuit. Close the left valve and let the system sit for a bit to assure the vacuum holds.
7. I held the plug with one hand while operating the Mityvac to keep the plug seated until the vacuum took over. I later learned this was unnecessary but it couldn't hurt to hold it tight against the neck.
8. Slowly open the right valve and the coolant will be sucked into the circuit.
9. Let it run until the coolant stops flowing.
10. Drink beer
11. As it says in the BMW manual... you may have to top up the coolant after removing the plug. I had to add maybe an ounce.

I should have trimmed up the length of my tubes to better fit where the valve manifold was located by the right-side bar grip but this is how I cobbled it together this morning and I didn't feel like changing it. A #6.5 or #7 rubber plug may fit easier but then you'll probably have to plug the rad overflow line. This is a #6 plug actually inserted upside down; but this is the plug I had. You'll find these plugs at any decent homebrew shop. My tubes were so snug fitting on the barbs, I only needed one hose clamp.




View attachment 77712
Click to expand...


hOW AND WHERE TO GET THAT LITTLE MANIFOLD YOU SHOW?
 
More Detail ...

105258 said:
Easy Peesy. I do this every two years and it is a relatively simple process, and requires no special tools, but requires two small crush washers for the blead plugs (pay attention to the torque specs on these plugs as they are not the same). There is a good procedure in the Haynes manual. The only shortcut is that both Haynes and BMW have you disconnect the line from the over flow tank to the radiator to drain the tank (not easy). There is a single bolt in the center of the tank that can be removed and simply turn the tank over to drain it. Once you have everything full then without replacing the body panels take it for a short ride 3 to 4 miles then return home and top up the fluid. Let it cool for a few minutes before you open the radiator cap. This is easier than heating it up in the shop to get the thermostat to open. Have fun !
Click to expand...

Can you show where those bleed plugs are on the engine?
 
craigjv4 said:
I used my hand pump Mityvac, a soft rubber stopper #6 size, a few hoses, and an old CO2 kegerator distribution manifold I had from when I was a homebrewer. Just stuff I had laying around.
Click to expand...


hOW AND WHERE TO GET THAT LITTLE MANIFOLD YOU SHOW?



It's a kegerator CO2 manifold to connect two kegs to one CO2 bottle. It's just something I had in a "junk" box. You can find them in any homebrewing shop or Amazon or probably used on Fleabay.
 
LFarling said:
I think it is what he means also.

Looking at the diagram it makes sense.

I have another year or two so plenty will try but I think I would clean my oil drain pan, open the radiator cap and filler cap, drop the drain plugs, see how much came out, and fill as was said, run as said, cool off as said, fill radiator. Check fill level every ride to see if it does burp, you can catch it and fill the overflow.
Click to expand...

I twisty canyon road with some elevation change should make quick work of any air pockets, I would think...
 
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