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'15 RT battery tender options

A

aholgate

Love living and riding!

Good morning all and Merry Christmas.

Question, I looked but didn't find anything list in the FAQ so I thought I'd post. I bought a new RT in July and I don't know if I can use one of my old BMW battery tenders on it?

Can someone she'd some light on some options as I have three bikes and I don't want to purchase yet another type of tender. I used a combination of two BMW tenders and an old brick tender from Sears (works the balls).

Thank you,

Ashley Holgate
1994 R1100RSA Pearl White (sold)
1995 R1100RSL Cobalt Blue (own)
1996 #326 R1100RT Glacier Green - buy it before you can ride it (sold)
2002 R1150 RT Silver (own)
2015 R1200RT Ebony (own)
 
I don't know it this helps but this is what I use for both my F700GS and my wife's 2015 R1200RT;

BMW Battery Tender 1.JPG


Shown with the F700GS

BMW Battery Tender 2.JPG

Purchased from our dealer. It is expensive, but works great and is convenient.

Dealer suggested sharing one between the two bikes due to the cost and switch it from one bike to the other on garbage day (so you remember to do it each week). I really like our dealer :)
 
I bought a battery tender to learn that the can-bus system on the new bikes, i.e. 14-15 RT, needs a compatable charger unit. The can-bus compatable charger can plug directly into the BMW accessory plug outlet to monitor and charge the battery. Alternatively, the Battery Tenders can mount their cable onto the battery and the cable can hang out the side seat to access.

I wanted a cleaner solution, and to use the accesory outlet, so I returned the Battery Tender and purchased a Tecmate Optimate 4 BMW version-Model 245 from my local BMW dealer who sold them. Working great so far!
 
If you run a separate pigtail directly to the battery you may continue to use the chargers you have.
 
I wired a powerlet plug directly to battery, with fuse, this buy passes canbus completely. Optimate charger with BMW plug, as a added benefit heated gear plugs in without causing faults
 
landis said:
I bought a battery tender to learn that the can-bus system on the new bikes, i.e. 14-15 RT, needs a compatable charger unit. The can-bus compatable charger can plug directly into the BMW accessory plug outlet to monitor and charge the battery. Alternatively, the Battery Tenders can mount their cable onto the battery and the cable can hang out the side seat to access.

I wanted a cleaner solution, and to use the accesory outlet, so I returned the Battery Tender and purchased a Tecmate Optimate 4 BMW version-Model 245 from my local BMW dealer who sold them. Working great so far!
Click to expand...

I bought a Tec Mate 4 that is supposed to be Can Bus compatable, followed directions to switch it to Can Bus, switched ignition on, plugged it in and all its doing is flashing the # 6 & 7nlights which I understand means it's ready for Can Bus. Switch off after about 15 seconds and light continue flashing (forever). Never seems to go into the 30 on 30 off cycle. Now I do have this "Can Opener" installed with Clearwater lights and the "Billie", could this have some effect? Not ready to peel covers and hook directly to the battery, yet. Would like the convenience of the plug-in.
 
At my previous dealership, as part of the PDI process and at no charge, we swapped the primary power outlet with a 15 AMP powerlet socket wired directly to the battery. At my current shop, we install a 20 AMP Gerbings lead directly to the battery - you can get a coax to SEA adapter that allows use of most chargers, compact air compressors, etc... there are several ways around the CanBus, directly to the battery that give you diverse functionality. Fielders choice :thumb
 
That's to all that responded. I like the additional information on wiring an outlet with fuse to the battery to run equipment that bypasses the Canbus so I can run my equipment that causes issues such h as my compressor and heated vest.

Since we're getting snow this week I guess it's a springtime project!
 
PGlaves said:
If you run a separate pigtail directly to the battery you may continue to use the chargers you have.
Click to expand...

+1 Once you have this SAE pig tail, you can use it for heated clothing and most importantly a electric tire pump which pulls way more current that CAN buss will allow.
 
bobzeliff said:
+1 Once you have this SAE pig tail, you can use it for heated clothing and most importantly a electric tire pump which pulls way more current that CAN buss will allow.
Click to expand...

Yes, but be aware the typical SEA pigtail like what you get with/for the battery tender lead isn't designed for the AMP capacity needed for heated gear. Battery tenders generally require 1.5-5 AMP depending on the model. If heated gear is part of what you want to use, start with the Gerbings 20 AMP capable pigtail direct from the battery and use a SEA adapter from the coax connection to facilitate the other devices.
 
bobzeliff said:
+1 Once you have this SAE pig tail, you can use it for heated clothing and most importantly a electric tire pump which pulls way more current that CAN buss will allow.
Click to expand...

Slime pulls 6.2 AMPs, the newer bikes will allow 10 through the CanBus.

Heated gear is still the biggest user.
 
RYD1WD said:
Slime pulls 6.2 AMPs, the newer bikes will allow 10 through the CanBus.

Heated gear is still the biggest user.
Click to expand...

My 2015 R1200GS has a battery cover with only screw. Take off that screw and cover and you have the negative terminal and an added positive terminal to its right. These allow jump starting of the bike if the battery is low. But it also allows an easy hook up of my old battery tender with alligator clips. And I could hook up the air pump that way.

I use only a heated vest, and it has worked through the CanBus by way of the accessory socket.

Harry
 
RYD1WD said:
Yes, but be aware the typical SEA pigtail like what you get with/for the battery tender lead isn't designed for the AMP capacity needed for heated gear. Battery tenders generally require 1.5-5 AMP depending on the model. If heated gear is part of what you want to use, start with the Gerbings 20 AMP capable pigtail direct from the battery and use a SEA adapter from the coax connection to facilitate the other devices.
Click to expand...

I have a powerlet cable plugged into a SAE pigtail I use for the tire pump etc. Works just fine with my Tourmaster Synergy jacket. SAE pigtails usually have fairly hefty wires; just make sure the fuse is appropriately sized and that will blow before you have any problems. You guys just worry too much. I use a regular 6/2 amp charger through the pigtail and disconnect when the green light shows it's dropped to trickle charge. Once a month is fine, never had a problem.
 
Yep, I do some wiring-

unsafe.jpg


:p

Direct to the battery is best IMO.
OM
 
Oh my:eek: One of my old line foreman trucks had three radios which on occasion would have me on the wrong frequency at the wrong time:scratch

laugh:laugh good stuff
 
Omtimate

Just plugged in a new Omtimate 4 set to CAN-BUS.
My Hyper Lights in the rear turn on and stay on.
Any way around this?
For today I plugged into a SAE plug on the 2015 R1200RT
 
It arrived

So I just got the optomate 4 DP from Amazon today and I'll plug it into the canbus. I'll see if there are any issues but I hope not. It's a stock bike with no accessories except the stock GPS so I should be fine. In the spring I'll do the direct to battery outlet for my best.

Ashley
 
cycle1 said:
Just plugged in a new Omtimate 4 set to CAN-BUS.
My Hyper Lights in the rear turn on and stay on.
Any way around this?
For today I plugged into a SAE plug on the 2015 R1200RT
Click to expand...

Where are the hyper lights tapped into for the running light function?
If it's off the accessory socket I believe it will do that.

And welcome to the Forum :wave
 
My dealer put a fused SAE pigtail directly to the battery, and that's what I use for my pump. I would also use it for the tender if I needed one. I use the Canbus Powerlet port on the right panel for my heated gear.

Question: is the stock battery a lead-acid (VRLA), AGM, or a lithium battery? The different chemistries require different behavior from the tender (float voltage, etc.). I have a Yuasa SmartShot which is designed for the lead-acid chemistry. I haven't been able to figure it out from reading the manual, and I haven't taken the battery out to look at it (shame on me, I know).
 
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