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Yes it is. But an even better solution is to get a "One Man Brake Bleeder" which is nothing more than a small 1 way check valve on the end of a short hose. This allows pump, pump, pump leaving the bleeder open.
I got one at a NAPA store years ago. An internet search will show several sources of such a device.
Speedbleeders (TM) allow the same thing. They are aftermarket bleeder valves with a built in check valve. However with multiple bleed valves on multiple bikes, a valve on a hose that costs between $5 and $15 is a more economic choice.
Is it possible to replace brake fluid (bleed) a non-servo brake system with ABS in the old fashion manner, at the calibers only...pump - squeeze - open bleeder - close bleeder - pump - squeeze...and again and again?
Can I ask a silly question? Why do you want to replace brake fluid in a 2013 motorcycle?
I put Speedbleeders on my 2012 RT when I did the first brake flush last week. $21 for 3 units. It was an easy job and everything bled out smoothly. My front pads are half shot at 24K miles. The rear pads are in better shape.
MotoDan, according to the RT service schedule you get 2 years initially on a new bike then you brake flush every year after. My fluid didn't look too bad. I think I will order a clutch speedbleeder in the future.
Good Riding!
You do realize there is no fluid change interval on the clutch hydraulics? And that brake fluid is NOT used in that circuit?MotoDan, according to the RT service schedule you get 2 years initially on a new bike then you brake flush every year after. My fluid didn't look too bad. I think I will order a clutch speedbleeder in the future.
Good Riding!
You do realize there is no fluid change interval on the clutch hydraulics? And that brake fluid is NOT used in that circuit?
The mineral oil used seems to last a very long time (mine is going on 75,000 miles and 5+ years and still looks fine.) You can buy the mineral oil from BMW ($$$) - or Magura (who made the master cylinder).
One thing to watch out for - as the clutch disk wears - the fluid in the clutch circuit rises in the reservoir. If it rises enough it can prevent the clutch from fully engaging. This is a bad thing since it means a slipping clutch, and a continuously engaged throwout bearing at the clutch slave cylinder. Just something to watch for - especially if you're riding an ex-police bike.
In the BWW Service DVD--set to bike 0440, i.e. USA R1200RT 2010) there are no instructions for bleeding an ABS modulator nor any for connecting any electronic devices.
There is instruction to bleed at the master cylinder for front brakes in addition to bleeding at calipers.
There are revised instructions for August 2012-on production that omit the bleeding at the reservoir.
Lots of this conflicts with most information provided above.
Yes D. E. I do realize the diff between the brake and clutch requirements. On topic FWIW, after double checking, the service interval for brake flushing is every two (2) years for that year RT according to BMW. But if folks want to change the brake fluid early have at it. I only do it if I need to (1-2 years). I did mine 5 months early as it is. I did use a GS-911 for my brake service but don't see where or why you have to flush twice. I would like to hear more about that.
There is certainly no mystery on how this is done. The traditional bleed process is fine. When I performed this during the 6k maintenance, approximately one year from manufacture date, I had no issues and performed this alone without speed bleeders or any other tool. I had a Mighty Vac but didn't have the correct size tubing; I will have to sort this out for the next time I do the job.
Just take your time to ensure you do a thorough job and all will be fine.
Thanks lkchris.
It was a little scary bleeding the master cylinder as I have never had to do that before. My bike was built in Feb 2012 so I wonder what omitting bleeding the MC after August 2012 is all about? Any step I can skip is important. I do need to pick up the DVD. The GS-911 software is updated often and is fantastic but I guess more info is better.
In the BWW Service DVD--set to bike 0440, i.e. USA R1200RT 2010) there are no instructions for bleeding an ABS modulator nor any for connecting any electronic devices.
There is vague reference to "bleeding device" but no official BMW special tool is specified. I could easily take this to mean a vacuum bleeder. There is in fact reference to "vacuum extraction process" and recommendation to additionally "bleed manually" following use of that.
There is instruction to bleed at the master cylinder for front brakes in addition to bleeding at calipers.
There is instruction to remove the brake pads when bleeding.
There are revised instructions for August 2012-on production that omit the bleeding at the reservoir.
Lots of this conflicts with most information provided above.
There is instruction to bleed at the master cylinder for front brakes in addition to bleeding at calipers. QUOTE]
2010 1200GSA- Isn't this accomplished by flushing at the calipers? Is this a necessary/recommended procedure?
Thanks,
Ok, I think I am mixing up actions. So, my question I suppose is should the master cylinder be flushed by its bleeder valve when flushing the system?